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  1. Hey, so I designed a custom heated bed upgrade for my UM Original... New Z platform (solid aluminum plate) new flanged linear bearings (similar to official bed kit), and using an MK2B heated bed and glass plate with 3 point mount and wing nuts to level it. So far so good, works fantastically. But I'm manually controlling power to the bed right now. I've heard the reason that UM went with the external control board for the official kit is that the PSU shipped with the UM Original isn't up to the task of powering the heated bed and all other electronics. Is this the only issue? The reason I
  2. Hey, so I'm upgrading the bowden clamps, the one at the hot end failed, and I'm replacing both as preventative maintenance. My question. How does one go about REMOVING the clamp at the drive end? (short of cutting off some of the tube). Is there a method to this that I'm missing? Thanks!
  3. The short belts can definitely cause backlash. Backlash is the primary cause of circles being out of round. Any loose belt on a pulley can cause backlash (ability for slop, allowing the pulley to turn slightly before the belt finally "locks" and engages, this allows for a "deadzone" where when the pulley reverses direction it can turn a few steps before the belt kicks back in and starts moving. It means anytime you reverse direction you loose a small amount of movement. so circles (which have a reverse in direction at each side) will loose some of their size in the axis that is affected most.
  4. Yeah I increased my temperature to 220C (230C for first layer) and it doesn't seem to be jamming now. But it's oozing like crazy (and tons of strings). Still working on tweaking it. And of course the leaking is still an issue (dripping into prints)
  5. So I'm thinking up ways to put a heated bed on the Ultimaker... I have a bed using power resistors and an aluminum block as a bed for my RepRap. Was thinking about something similar. Problem is the Power Resistors are huge and hang under the board (like 1.5cm) and the Ultimaker bed is very close to the wood plate, not leaving much clearance in there. So then I thought, I could use a cartridge heater (similar to the heater in the extruder) clamped between 2 pieces of aluminum with half-circle channels milled into it to clamp and provide nice thermal interface to the cartridge heater. This wou
  6. Sorry that was worded funny... lol I was replying about the leak, but yes you're right the most likely place for it to jam is between the PEEK and the bowden tube. I can doublecheck that tonight. But as I said it's got plenty of contact. The only possible option would be if it's cut crooked. Even then when I back it out, it backs out clean down to the nozzle (you can see the pointed/melted tip like on any other 3d printer, once it's backed out). And there are no crazy parts that would be grabbing in a hold (like the "flange" effect I've seen posted here). I is a bit "widened" (as in it's stil
  7. I went through the troublshooting on the wiki for it. The tube is plenty extended (as I said it's hitting the lip inside the PEEK and there is plenty of gap once the bolts are tightened down solid (a good 1mm+ gap between alu plate and the wood) I didn't confirm 100% if it was perfectly flat, but it did appear to be so. And as I said the leak was coming out between the PEEK and Aluminum block. It may have been leaking higher up, but then it went down through all the thread to leak out between peek and alu block. Either way it's no longer leaking there at all. It's now leaking between the noz
  8. Hey, so I'm new to the Ultimaker, but a veteran of the 3D Printing scene. Been around a while, and (had) a reprap mendel, and still have an Up, and a BFB 3D Touch at work. Plus the Ultimaker now. So I know my way around a printer. I have to first say DAMN am I ever impressed with the mechanical build of the Ultimaker. It's resolution and print quality blow away EVERYTHING else that I've tried. But... (here comes the issues) I'm having a hard time with the extruder. (and reading through here I'm seeing it's fairly common). I know this is just like anything else... Will take some time to tune/
  9. I'm in Canada, and I'd be willing to do a print for you as a sample. I just got my ultimaker so I'm still tuning/tweaking a bit, but I'm a die hard veteran 3D Printing enthusiast, so I'm not concerned about being able to get good quality for you (and might be a good test since it's early in the "tweaking" stages, so would give you a good idea what a machine "out of the box" might be able to produce) Let me know the approximate size/volume of the object, and it's intended use. And do you care if it's in yellow? (the spool currently on the machine) or would you prefer white/black? I'll also ne
  10. I didn't suggest lash as a full solution, mostly as a "closing the gap" solution (once you've tried belt tension and so on). Backlash can also be caused by loose pulleys, or too fast movement (too much inertia in the head). Or poorly meshed pulley/belt. Because of the double-belt driven approach on Ultimaker you may need to check the smaller belt from the motor for backlash as well. If you check all that and it's tuned and the problem still exists to some degree, the lash plugin can compensate for the rest of the issue in software (and does a fair job of it).
  11. Amusing, I've been reading through the forums getting prepped for the arrival of my first Ultimaker. I've been involved in 3D Printing for years now, have a reprap, an up, and a BFB 3D Touch, as well as access to a couple makerbot machines. And I've seen several people on these forums now posting pics of issues that look EXACTLY like backlash problems First I would check belt tension, as that would contribute to backlash significantly. But if that doesn't help or only reduces it some, then if your using skeinforge (or something with a "Lash" plugin) assuming left to right in that image is X
  12. That looks pretty good. I'll try it out once the Ultimaker is here... It didn't show up today unfortunately (sad panda...) anyway, I'll try a side by side print test. Also I'd be happy to run a speed test with those models. Can you share your settings you used? (so I can approximate them with KISS, it likely won't be "the same" but I can approximate the same resolution/settings). I know in my side by side tests with Slic3r earlier I was seeing 5-10x improvement in speed over slic3r. Mind you at those speeds, it's really not even important anymore lol, unless your talking about slicing on mini
  13. The gui isn't the most pretty thing out there, but the focus is on usability (also it's partly due to the gui lib he's using I think) Honestly I don't care what it looks like as long as it does the job well Never used SkeinPyPy, but for me the slicing time of skeinforge was a downer. I do some fairly large complex prints, and slicing on skeinforge was literally taking me 2+ hours to slice prints. On Slic3r it would slice those same prints in 5-6 minutes. And KISSlicer could slice them in like 10 seconds. (seriously, it's THAT fast) lol And the print quality out of the box (with minimal "t
  14. I used to consistantly run into circles out of round on my reprap (Sells Mendel) The circles would come out in a slightly oval shaped pattern on 45 degrees from the X or Y axis. And sometimes infill wouldn't line up with the skin due to the offset. It was caused 100% by backlash. So loose belts aren't too far fetched. (my issue was EXACTLY consistant every time, it was out by about 1mm total from round, so larger circles you didn't notice it, really tiny holes looked badly squashed)
  15. Hey, I'm one of the beta testers for KISSlicer. I also should be receiving my Ultimaker today or tomorrow. Once I have it I'll be doing some testing on the Ultimaker with KISS. I can say it's a damn good slicer, it's extremely fast, and has some very nice features. And Jonathan is constantly improving it and adding new features based on community recommendations. From my experience using it on both a BFB 3D Touch and my RepRap (using Marlin Firmware) I can say it produces much better prints than Slic3r did or than Axon (Skeinforge) for BFB. It's faster than Slic3r by a fair bit, and WAY fas
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