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Everything posted by kaz911

  1. January Sale - Now on eBay with BIN for GBP 2300,- https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/184137052598
  2. I’m battling with accuracy of my UM3e - so if you could let me know I would be very happy. thanks
  3. sorry - I don't get notifications from here - no printer still available :)
  4. Price - best offer or 2800,- I can throw in UK shipping for free if it helps. I've updated original posting to show details of material included and a couple of pictures. Right now it is connected to my Dry-Box - but it is complete.
  5. Hi, printer is in Greater London - TW9 / Kew. I'll try and upload some pictures later on.
  6. I'm selling my UM 3 Extended as I'm not using it much. Print Time - heads say < 5 days each In original (but tatty) box Included printer with original heads (3 total) 1. a few rolls of ABS material + what is left of original (1 x Black ABS slightly used, 1 x White ABS Slightly used, 1 x Red ABS unopened, Original silver - not much left - original support material not much left.) - all rolls are original Ultimaker. 2. Enhanced Print Kit (1 extra print plates/glass + Front Cover) 3. few head cleaner sticks. Will sh
  7. Hi All, it has been a while since I was active here as my Z-M200 has kept me out of trouble since my UM Original. But circumstance and luck? brought me back with 2 "new" UM's in two weeks. One UM2 bought broken and quickly repaired - and another 2nd hand UM3E with < 24 hours on it. So I'm back and have now gotten more or less up to speed on UM since my first "IKEA" Flatpack UM Original. ? And a LOT has happened over time. It is great to see Cura is now Mature(ish) and UM 2 / UM 3 are huge steps forward. I like the new Autolevel - and for PLA t
  8. I had issues with UM2 USB direct print from Cura 3.3.1 - I think there are some issues. I switched to SD Card print and all was good. My issue - printer did not get a "position" reset before the print started from the PC after a bed leveling. Cura started printing straight away without waiting for heated bed or extruder to heat up. There was a bit of retained heat so some material came out but not enough to bind. I exported the same print to SD card and all was fine. It was after updating to latest firmware, then a factory reset + complete shutdo
  9. I did not means LOOKS. I don't care if it is made of plywood or concrete if it is solid and works well. But the M200 is just a much more sold built machine - and I would say - it looks better made than the UM2 as well. But I have only seen pictures/videos of the UM2 and not seen it IRL. Don't get me wrong - UM1 was a great machine in its time. And I loved making things on my UM1. But the M200 has outpaced the UM1 by many many miles. Prices in USD ex. VAT and shipping UM1 - $1610 UM2 - $2554 M200 - $1895 So you can get the M200 for $300 MORE than them UM1 and $659 LESS than the UM2....
  10. And here is a link to hacklordsnipers "questions" to Zortrax http://zortrax.com/forum/viewtopic.php?id=182
  11. Great report thanks. I got my Zortrax M200 to replace my UM1. My findings about support are the opposite of yours. Zortrax has always answered quickly to my mails. Anyway - my M200 prints like a dream. It make the UM1 look like a ... well .. amateur machine. It prints ABS better in most parts than the UM1 does in PLA. And my UM1 is quite well tuned. There are issues though - but no deal breakers. More "it would be nice to have xxx" - than I NEED xxx to print this. I'm now perfectly happy starting a print job - and leaving the M200 to do its job even overnight without parental supervision
  12. Yes - and a bit more info - the huge swings in temperature is when doing large fill's. When just doing walls temperature is quite stable - but not as stable as 13.x.
  13. Well I gave up waiting - and based on past performance of support, random software support and UM2 delivery time - my UM1 will be replaced with a Zortrax M200. I ordered the Zortrax M200 on the 14th January - and it shipped yesterday with DHL from Hong Kong.
  14. Just upgraded to latest Cura 14.01 - and temperature control of my UM1 is not very good any longer. Graph shows nice sinus curves and temperature goes up/down 10 degrees either direction. Previous versions has been rock steady after a couple of minutes of operation. (13.x)
  15. Hi Daid, I have a "suggestion" If you make long thin object - the the distance between support "bars" can sometimes get very small - leading to support is very hard to get off. Maybe try to space support walls "evenly" if there are a few. And again - when you get close to an endpoint - more even spacing of the support material. So if distance is set to 0.7 - then a support structure will be placed for every 0.7 - but if there is not 0.7 mm to an endpoint - another support wall will be placed at anywhere from 0.2? to 0.6 - pushing them very hard together. My preference would be to use 0.
  16. I'm a beta backer as well - plus I backed the Spike. I really hope Spike gets to $200.000 - then they will do point cloud - where you move the laser scanner around to get more details of the building.
  17. It is just a kinnect + iPad app - but based on newer sensors than the kinnect. They also own the Scanect app - the PC based 3D scanner for kinnect - so I do not doubt that they can finish. Here is another very interesting 3D acquisition system - but for LARGE objects http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/ikegps/spike-laser-accurate-measurement-and-modelling-on The Spike is created from very experienced company that already makes a ton of Laser range finders. Check out their latest update videos where they create a 3D building and print it - from a single "Photo" with 3D data on it. So if y
  18. Daid - I use Netfab :-) but am thinking of trying Cura again. But you had metal to the pedal since before you joined UM. But are you the only one actually working?
  19. http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/zortrax/zortrax-m200-professional-desktop-3d-printer/comments It looks very much like an Ultimaker - made in metal for ABS prints. and what the h is going on at UM? Nothing new since November - and since launch only a few "minor" improvements. Is something great coming out?
  20. Danke my german is reasonable! :-) so I'll see if I can make it work.
  21. Does any of you experts know how to convert a GPS LAT,LONG,HEIGHT model to a solid printable shape? I have ascii files with the data - and can do some format conversion. But what tool can I use to make it into a printable model (cheap) THANKS@!
  22. it sounds like a blockage in your bowden tube where it hits the first part of copper - or you are extruding to "cold" for your material. I think most of us extrude at 220-235 degrees for PLA. 1. First try to heat the head to about 260 degrees for 5 minutes and see if that loosens enough for your to manually extrude a bit. If that is the case - then it is a blockage. A high temperature will make the material softer and allow you to pull the material back (should not be done with a lot of force) 2. Let it cool - and then take the bottom head assembly off (from bottom plates) - and find a way t
  23. Thanks - BuildMe version made M303 work. Question: the BuildMe - defaults - has different PID values than Ultimaker standard In notes: Ultimaker Kp: 22.2/Ki:1.25/Kd:99 In BuildMe defaults: Kp: 22.2/Ki: 1.08/Kd:114 The reason I am asking is my PID thing with M303 overshoots the 150c mark up to 170c - and that makes M303 break... And I cant seem to find a good source on modifying the PID values.
  24. Just installed - quick question - I use the Cura Marlin RC2 firmware. But I cant get the M303 command to do anything. Known issue? M303 says "PID autotune Start" but it does not start to heat up the element.
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