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kaz911

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Posts posted by kaz911


  1. I'm selling my UM 3 Extended as I'm not using it much.

     

    Print Time - heads say < 5 days each 

     

    In original (but tatty) box

     

    Included printer with original heads (3 total)

    1. a few rolls of ABS material + what is left of original (1 x Black ABS slightly used, 1 x White ABS Slightly used, 1 x Red ABS unopened, Original silver - not much left - original support material not much left.) - all rolls are original Ultimaker.

     

    2. Enhanced Print Kit (1 extra print plates/glass + Front Cover) 

     

    3. few head cleaner sticks.

     

    Will ship anywhere EU at cost price insured/signed for. Parcel(s) are heavy so not cheap to ship.

     

    Payment PayPal (Verified PayPal only or Bank Transfer @ your cost)

     

    Printer can be seen/inspected in Kew, Greater London TW9.

     

    Company Invoice without VAT (company not VAT registered) - no official warranty apart from it work :)

     

    Will be listed on eBay later if no response here: (eBay account : kaz911 - 100% since 1998)

     

    Price GBP 2800 OBO/OHB

     

    IMG_8801 (2).JPG

    IMG_8802 (2).JPG


  2. Hi All,

     

    it has been a while since I was active here as my Z-M200 has kept me out of trouble since my UM Original.

     

    But circumstance and luck? brought me back with 2 "new" UM's in two weeks. One UM2 bought broken and quickly repaired - and another 2nd hand UM3E with < 24 hours on it.

     

    So I'm back and have now gotten more or less up to speed on UM since my first "IKEA" Flatpack UM Original. ?

     

    And a LOT has happened over time. It is great to see Cura is now Mature(ish) and UM 2 / UM 3 are huge steps forward. I like the new Autolevel - and for PLA the glass plate is great - adhesion works really well. Camera & Wi-Fi are perfect as well! And dual extrusion and removable print heads are all great features.

     

    But ONE of the issues are the same as they wore on the UM original. I can not understand that the extruder is still such a "PITA"? It is still more or less the same and for the expensive UM3 I would have expected MUCH better like geared BondTech quality. Yes the extruder is better than the OLD wooden one. But not quite there yet.

     

    And then there are the rest: 

    Material feed from rear with 2 spools sticking out - 25-30 cm's with " engineers wet dream NFC reader"? (I'm an EE myself so I do understand) - but the development money should have gone to the extruder design(er)

     

    PVA: I think I spent about 2 days trying to align (and repeatedly clean/hot-pull/cold-pull) the PVA head. Obviously the PVA had not been stored well from previous owner so I found out the hissing and popping is moisture.. But that material is so sensitive. Not even 5 hours at 65c in oven cured it. So 3/4 of spool "maybe" down the drain? Now got it in a drybox to give it a final push. Else it goes out.

     

    BreakAway - as I print MOSTLY in ABS - I needed some BreakAway material. But mostly out of stock everywhere (UK)?

     

    Prices : Hmm - Ultimaker seems to have some very LOYAL dealers who maintain prices within a few GBP/Euro of each other across the whole of EU? Sales prices are SO close that I do think it might classify as price-fixing...?

     

    Anyway - once I have finished a "Dry-box" interface for my UM3 I'll dismount the NFC thing and see if I can get some stable prints in ABS with dual extrusion and breakaway support + PLA/PVA.  

     

    So I'm crossing my fingers ? and hope the UM's will earn their keep. But compared to printing on Zortrax - getting the UM3 to print nice has been harder than I had hoped for. Zortrax have their own issues - but that (was) mostly staff attitude and broken promises based and that is better now.. I can't fault the M200 in quality of prints and stability/repeat-ability of actually getting things made.

     

    So on top of head - my UM wish list for the future is:

     

    1. Better standard geared Extruder(s)!

    2. A PVA like support material that can actually survive hanging on the spool and do not "glass up" the Print Head. Or supply a PVA drybox as Standard!

    3. A ?Rasberry PI "Cura Connect" add-on to "old" UM2/2+'s with (maybe) Camera Support

    4. A printer that actually prints great out the box without a lot of the "fiddling" around. 

     

    Sorry this was not meant to sound like sour grapes - I am impressed what has happened since UM Original. But I was also very disappointed especially with the UM3 extruders and how PVA handles.

     

     


  3. I had issues with UM2 USB direct print from Cura 3.3.1 - I think there are some issues. I switched to SD Card print and all was good.

     

    My issue - printer did not get a "position" reset before the print started from the PC after a bed leveling.

     

    Cura started printing straight away without waiting for heated bed or extruder to heat up. There was a bit of retained heat so some material came out but not enough to bind.

     

    I exported the same print to SD card and all was fine.

     

    It was after updating to latest firmware, then a factory reset + complete shutdown - and then a platform leveling - then USB print - and a "fresh" Cura installed on a "Virgin PC" - it left some ugly marks on the glass as well.

     

     


  4. Hello,

    i would not agree on you with some things. Comparing Ultimaker 1 and Zortrax, affcourse UM1 looks like amateur machine because its made from plywood. Also the thread you are reffering to at Zortrax is not the "questions" that i meant. i sent them by e-mail few questions about expected FW and SW finishing time and some more similiar questions.

     

    I did not means LOOKS. I don't care if it is made of plywood or concrete if it is solid and works well. But the M200 is just a much more sold built machine - and I would say - it looks better made than the UM2 as well. But I have only seen pictures/videos of the UM2 and not seen it IRL. Don't get me wrong - UM1 was a great machine in its time. And I loved making things on my UM1. But the M200 has outpaced the UM1 by many many miles.

    Prices in USD ex. VAT and shipping

    UM1 - $1610

    UM2 - $2554

    M200 - $1895

    So you can get the M200 for $300 MORE than them UM1 and $659 LESS than the UM2....I'm not saying the UM2 is a bad 3D printer - it is possibly an excellent 3D printer. On some points the UM2 seems better on paper - on others the Zortrax looks better on paper. But being an Electronics Engineer - I am impressed with the Zortrax - with all its "short comings". But the Zortrax makes ABS printing as easy as PLA printing on the UM1 - and in some ways even much easier - like support and raft removal.

     


  5. Great report thanks. I got my Zortrax M200 to replace my UM1.

    My findings about support are the opposite of yours. Zortrax has always answered quickly to my mails.

    Anyway - my M200 prints like a dream. It make the UM1 look like a ... well .. amateur machine. It prints ABS better in most parts than the UM1 does in PLA. And my UM1 is quite well tuned.

    There are issues though - but no deal breakers. More "it would be nice to have xxx" - than I NEED xxx to print this. I'm now perfectly happy starting a print job - and leaving the M200 to do its job even overnight without parental supervision.

    I have printed big items, small items - detailed items - and 99% comes out usable on first print.

    My short list of issues:

    1. Flat top infill is not up to (my) UM1 standards - but still better than a lot of the UM prints I see here.

    2. ABS can be pushed through the perforation holes in the top PCB on the heated platform - making it slightly uneven. But easy to clean and get level again.

    3. My power supply gets a slight rattle when hot from the fan. I have not looked into that but possibly an easy fix.

    4. Cold drafts can cause ABS layer splits - but after I moved the printer away from AC draft I have only had one layer split on a very large print.

    5. Raft (currently) limit's max object size to about 189x189 mm

    6. Firmware is far from complete

    But the above issues are small compared to the positives by far.

    1. Prints have the right size - screw holes are the size you expect - I printed a BIG adaptor for a VHF for a boat - and it was a perfect fit at first try. Mount was made in Autodesk Inventor.

    2. Prints looks great on both .2 and .14 layer height

    3. Prints are easy to remove from the print bed - no glue needed, no kapton and no painters tape replacements. I no longer "ponder" about printing a slightly useless thing because I MIGHT have to reapply painters tape afterwards. I just print it.

    4. Support is VERY easy to remove - usually takes less than a minute to remove support and clean up a print

    5. Machine is very quiet and built like a tank.

    6. Plenty of firmware features to come in the future :) improving an already great product :)

    So it would say - for the price vs performance I am very happy with my M200. It is a true workhorse. I don't know if i'll keep my UM1 or donate it to a maker space. I thought I'd keep it for odds and ends where ABS was not really needed - but after finding out how nicely the Zortrax prints ABS - I can't see a reason to keep the UM1 any longer.

    But check out the print room - http://zortrax.com/forum/viewforum.php?id=8 - plenty of amazing prints.

     


  6. Kaz - when you say that you upgraded to latest Cura, did you also upgrade the firmware as part of that?

     

    Yes - and a bit more info - the huge swings in temperature is when doing large fill's. When just doing walls temperature is quite stable - but not as stable as 13.x.

     


  7. Just upgraded to latest Cura 14.01 - and temperature control of my UM1 is not very good any longer. Graph shows nice sinus curves and temperature goes up/down 10 degrees either direction. Previous versions has been rock steady after a couple of minutes of operation. (13.x)

     


  8. Hi Daid,

    I have a "suggestion"

    If you make long thin object - the the distance between support "bars" can sometimes get very small - leading to support is very hard to get off. Maybe try to space support walls "evenly" if there are a few. And again - when you get close to an endpoint - more even spacing of the support material.

    So if distance is set to 0.7 - then a support structure will be placed for every 0.7 - but if there is not 0.7 mm to an endpoint - another support wall will be placed at anywhere from 0.2? to 0.6 - pushing them very hard together.

    My preference would be to use 0.7 as a guide line - and have support walls spaced evenly. So all support walls would be 0.5-0.7 mm apart if the math solves.

    I would also like to see something like the fluf settings from Netfab for support. They are usually enough. The Cura support is (IMHO) a bit heavy handed :) with amount of material.

     


  9. It is just a kinnect + iPad app - but based on newer sensors than the kinnect. They also own the Scanect app - the PC based 3D scanner for kinnect - so I do not doubt that they can finish.

    Here is another very interesting 3D acquisition system - but for LARGE objects :)

    http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/ikegps/spike-laser-accurate-measurement-and-modelling-on

    The Spike is created from very experienced company that already makes a ton of Laser range finders. Check out their latest update videos where they create a 3D building and print it - from a single "Photo" with 3D data on it.

    So if you are into large object modelling - Spike is they way. The iPad "kinnect" scanner is mostly for indoor use and smaller object.

     


  10. it sounds like a blockage in your bowden tube where it hits the first part of copper - or you are extruding to "cold" for your material. I think most of us extrude at 220-235 degrees for PLA.

    1. First try to heat the head to about 260 degrees for 5 minutes and see if that loosens enough for your to manually extrude a bit. If that is the case - then it is a blockage. A high temperature will make the material softer and allow you to pull the material back (should not be done with a lot of force)

    2. Let it cool - and then take the bottom head assembly off (from bottom plates) - and find a way to keep it stable. You should now be able to see the blockage on the top of the PTFE. Dont remove the material yet

    3. Heat head to 180-200 degrees for a couple of minutes - and then use pliers to remove blockage.

    4. Check the bowden tube sticks out 8 mm below the bottom plate. If it is less - then the material can work its way in between the bowden tube and the copper "tube" and create a blockage.

    5. Adjust and reassemble

    /kaz


  11. I've never used the PID autotune M303 command. But there has been a small change in it after that firmware release. You can build a newer version with:

    http://daid.eu/~daid/marlin_build/

    (defaults are the same as for the Cura firmware, except that the Cura firmware also has the UltiController enabled)

    Random FYI: RC2 and RC3 use the same firmware (I didn't want to risk updating it after a lot of testing, especially because that's what broke the RC2 first run wizard)

    Thanks - BuildMe version made M303 work.

    Question: the BuildMe - defaults - has different PID values than Ultimaker standard

    In notes: Ultimaker Kp: 22.2/Ki:1.25/Kd:99

    In BuildMe defaults: Kp: 22.2/Ki: 1.08/Kd:114

    The reason I am asking is my PID thing with M303 overshoots the 150c mark up to 170c - and that makes M303 break...

    And I cant seem to find a good source on modifying the PID values.


  12. Just installed - quick question - I use the Cura Marlin RC2 firmware. But I cant get the M303 command to do anything. Known issue? M303 says "PID autotune Start" but it does not start to heat up the element.


  13. thanks - is there any documentation for the calibration procedure?
    For temperature, don't worry about it for now. Most temperature sensors are working fine, and there are a few cases where people have issues. Unless you have serious problems, or want to tinker with the machine, you shouldn't be needing more electrical knowledge and calibration knowledge then knowing how to plug in some cables.

    I do not agree. It would actually help a lot if temperature measurement was consistent between printers. That would make it a lot easier to make Material Profiles that would more or less work across printers. Right now reading the forum - many say their sensors are "off" just like mine was. If they came out of Ultimaker "pre-calibrated" it would help. Then you could build a database of Ultimachine and other suppliers materials and colors - and get a "reasonable" first print. So when the instructions says print at 200 degrees - you do not have to increase or decrease it before it "works"

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