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antiklesys

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Everything posted by antiklesys

  1. True, but I went Tony Stark mode and tried Printing directly Worked fine, just once i had the bowden tube pop. I think it's because I'm using printed pieces to keep the bowden in place and they "shortened" the tube a bit. I might look into buying a new longer tube to fix this issue
  2. Yey thank you mastory, that worked flawlessly!
  3. Yes it is an UM1. Is there any place where I can find the exact value? of the V2 bolt in E steps ?
  4. Hi, I was trying to print the following upgrade: www.thingiverse.com/thing:8550 Now I have the following issues when slicing the pieces: -Rear.stl (all ok, already printed, slices fine) -XY_stabilizer (all ok, already prined, slices fine) -Left_front (issues) -Right_front (issues) The "issues" for those parts is that Cura creates several layers around one of the holes before actually doing anything else. Makes me think it wants to print the piece "mid-air". I have checked both pieces are laying flat on the bed and I want to use the brim option when printing. Any advices? The holes are part of the same surface of the item and they aren't on a different level. Additional note: I need to print those pieces without rotating them as otherwise there will be a bad overhand which won't allow me to print one of the holes. Hints? Black magic?
  5. Hi, I was looking on the wiki: http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Marlin_Firmware_for_the_Ultimaker%20regarding%20the%20E-Steps%20for%20different%20kind%20of%20extruder%20gears. Now it says that for Skeingforge below 40 and Netfabb the value is E14 regardless of the knurled bolt used, while for Skeinforge higher than 40 is changing between E926.5 and E865.888 depending on the gear. I was thinking of making some tests using the old Geo Hangen Extruder and due all the changes in Cura and Marlin I'm not sure what is the E steps value I should set inside Cura's machine settings. The diameter of the knurled bolt is 20mm (yes, 20), so would it be E5.2 ? Or I did my math wrong? Too many things changed both in Cura and Marlin for me to remember and keep up, so I'm asking the Gurus
  6. Fix Horrible Type A creates an issue. It closes several holes which are by design while printing the STL "SpoolHub-x1.stl" of this design: www.thingiverse.com/thing:10219 Does anyone else face this issue? It can be noticed by just switcing the view to "layers" and scrolling up and down with the slider.
  7. Same here Skint, copy paste is being a nightmare for me too:S
  8. I'm happy to wait...and if there's a chance I'm happy to meet up too Here in Milan is extremely hot, so making a trip around the Swiss alps might be a good idea to get some fresh air hehe
  9. I might have something cool to show you then, will post a picture as soon as i get home (might take a while )
  10. I do have already some steppers configured for working with syringes, I'd be interested in co-opping with someone to finalize the design Anyone? Dieselpower maybe?
  11. JonnyBischof, what do you estimate being the upgrade price for UM1 from plywood to Dibond? I'm not in Switzerland, but living nearby in Italy I could probably come pick it up on a weekend and avoid postage fees Also I wouldn't need all the parts as I have already upgraded some plywood items with printed parts.
  12. Average print speed is 50 mm/s, you can go higher on a finely tuned UM. The most hackable machine I would say it still is the UM1. Yes it lacks a lot of things like the heated bed and so on, but you can acquire those for the same amount of money you would be paying for the difference between the two machines and you can have an hackable machine which could let you do considerable improvements like direct drive or swapping of the print head to a much lighter and printed one. I still don't have a hot bed, but that's due the fact I'm not planning on printing in ABS anytime soon due the toxic smokes it releases.
  13. Hi David, This might be due the Arduino drivers, please follow this guide to solve the problem Link: http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=205837.0 Edit, new signed drivers for Win 8 and Win 8.1 have been released too, you should be able to get them from the Arduino website.
  14. Hi Daid, Yep, replied on the other topic too. I was suspecting the residue was the source of the issue Did cleaning the nozzle and bed help mitigate this problem? A solution would be to drill 4 holes in the UM1 acrylic bed, get 4 screws and some bolts and assembly them in the following way (top to bottom). Screw Head Bolt Bolt Bolt UM-BED Bolt Wire Screw End When homing the head we could use the Screw End touching on the ALU block used for nozzle heating rather than on the nozzle. The 3 bolts should be enough for this (otherwise just increase the number of bolts) and should constitute a "known" height. Am I making sense? Th
  15. Oh Daid, you anticipated me I created a post in the Marlin firmware section to discuss this further. I understand the issue you describe, I don't have an UM2 so I can only guess, but could the cause be the nozzle or bed being dirty with the printing material and not making a stable connection? Would touch sensitive sensors placed on the bed be a solution for this? They can easily be made at home with tinfoil and the nozzle would just have to press on them (so no need of electrical connection between nozzle and bed).
  16. Hi, This is a follow up from the post related to Ultrasound Bed Levelling in "Modification & Hacks" (http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/5959-ultrasound-bed-levelling-on-um1/ ), but I've posted it here to take a firmware approach to what could be a potential solution to stop worrying about bed levelling between prints. I was thinking of upgrading the UM1 bed with an ALU bed, solder a wire to it and solder another wire to the print head. Have those two wires connected either to GND and one of the Arduino's I/O OR connect them directly to the Z limit switch port (not sure this could create side effects tho). We could use this system to change the UM homing behaviour, to go from: -Home X&Y&Z to: -Home X&Y in point 1 -Home Z in point 1 -Lower Z -Move X&Y to point 2 -Home Z in point 2 -Move X&Y to point 3 -Home Z in point 3 -Move X&Y to point 4 -Home Z in point 4 Where point 1,2,3,4 are the ones used within Cura during the bed levelling wizard. During each Z homing we would save the Z registered height and save it temporarily. This would define the height of the print plane and the inclination it has. We could then use this with Marlin's autolevelling feature as shown in this video: So the Z axis would constantly compensate during the printing process for imperfections in the bed levelling. I would like to know Daid's opinion on this and if this could be a feasible solution to resolve bed levelling once and for all
  17. Oooh thank you Daid, do you have a release date for the HeatedBedUpgradeKit for the UM1?
  18. I think I just found the simplest way to level the bed: Use an alu bed and have it connected to one of the Arduino's digital IO, while GND is connected to the printhead. As soon as the nozzle hits the bed that could be coded to light up a LED light. It would work just as a simple switch and nothing more than a LED and two wires is needed (and ALU bed of course...or alternatively 4 aluminium tinfoil pieces could be glued to the bed and have a wire connected to them, but then we would need to take in account the alu foil height). This should be an extremely simple implementation and we could perhaps even integrate a function in Marlin to detect the bed height before the start of a print in order for the firmware to auto throw-in the Z compensation as in the video shown before. I'm up to testing this out myself granted someone helps me tweak the firmware for this mod
  19. Just go with it and print a replacement for the plastic part I'm using this one and it works really nicely! http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:276327
  20. He is providing laser goggles too in the order Also the laser he's providing seem to be able to happily cut through acrylic. Is the UM PSU 24v? Couldn't find much info about that on the UM wiki page.
  21. Hi, I've seen this campaign on Indiegogo and I backed it. This should be a no problem for our printer (as long as we ensure using an Alu bed on UM1), what are your thoughts? Link to campaign: https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/l-cheapo-laser-cutter-attachment/x/236232
  22. Hi SandervG, Ticket ID is: VDN-889-99063 What I meant is that I received all parts, but one is missing. If you can open the ticket I have sent you, I have attacched 2 pictures of the problem. One is taken from your website, from the store page, in which I circled in red the part which is missing. The other picture is a picture of the package I received, where you can see there are all parts, but the one marked in red is missing. I hope I won't have to wait again several weeks to get this issue sorted :/
  23. I bought the Extruder Drive Upgrade and the Knurled Drive Bolt Kit on the Ultimaker store. Here's my Experience : -On the 14th of May a package arrives containing the full Knurled Drive Bolt Kit and ONLY the screws for the Extruder Drive Upgrade...nothing else. -On the same day I opened a ticket with the support reporting the issue. -Today (4th of June), after endless communications and delays from the support, a package finally arrived. It contained all the parts for the Extruder Drive Upgrade, but ONE. (and no, it wasn't the screws which were missing). I am now AGAIN waiting for the support to reply and I wonder how long it'll take for them to send out the missing piece of plastic. It's hilarious and frustrating at the same time, not only that the first order was screwed up, but that the items sent out to fix the issue, were WRONG again! Ultimaker, how much are these issues costing you? Not only as a matter of customer satisfaction, but as actual shipping costs for this mess. Can't you put in place some basic quality controls?!?!
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