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  1. i also level my bed manually, then i run the bed test to check the pla consistency over the bed. its a good belt and braces check. you have to remember people starting out in the 3d printer world, you have to make it as simple as possible to start with, which cura does, then human nature makes us experiment more and more. for people starting out, they could easily unknowingly do the same and wreck their extruder wheel and setup. i am just pointing it out, i am sure daid has a million things to add, but if we dont tell him stuff,there would seem little point in having a forum.
  2. Fixed !!!! ok i lied a bit in my initial details, i have the hotend V1, i thought the latest one was V3 and hence i thought mine was v2. Anyway i stripped the hotend down, never been done since day one of my ownership and i have never had a need too either. it wasnt as much of a hassle as i had thought it would be. there in the peek is about a 1 - 2mm plug of PLA, it looks very insignificant on its own, but i recheck the head install instruction which asks for 8mm of bowden tube to be sticking out, mine was circa 6mm and the bowden had bite* marks on the outside as if it had been dragged through the holder. SO i guess over time its worked its way loose. with hindsight my prints have got progressively worse, but its been such a slow process that i have never noticed. when i assembled it all and did my first test print, the difference was like naight and day, the pla was comparatively gushing out. :-\ this was the PLA that refused to work last time. i did a few small belt tensioner parts as a test and they worked out well. when i repaired my hotend, i had a spare new one, so i used that rather than mess about with the old one, what i did notice was the old nozzle was about 1.5mm shorter! the end had worn away over time, so the hole was bigger too. i know in the early months , i had a number of times that my nozzle hit things that it should not of, so over time its really worn out, its worth renewing this once in a while. anyway my failed printing cost me 248 euros !!! i ordered the proper V2 hotend, but postage was something rediculus like 22 euro, but that must go on weight and size, so i added more and more to see what weight would increase the postage, nothing seemed to. so a V2 hotend, knurled drive upgrade,belts pack and 4 lots of flexible pla later !!
  3. just an observation really, that caught me out. i have the ultimaker control panel, so when i print, i set my temperature on that and i set the cura temp to 0 degrees. i used to let cura set the temp but when i got the ultmaker controller, i was always getting the temp error each time i tried to print. (seems to be fixed in v13) i have been having some printing issues, not sure what yet, so i thought i would recalibrate the bed using the bed levelling check, but since i had set the print temp in cura to 0 it checked the four corner heights and when i set it to print the test square, it was OFF and away without setting any temperature. (since this was already set at 0) i hadnt set the temp on the ultimaker panel, since i was just looking for my problems. it would be nice to have a default temp set in there for when doing the bed levelling and also preventing it from being less than the melting point of pla / abs. maybe even some text warning to say set the temp, at worst. i hope that makes sense!
  4. i should of said, a different colour too! i ran a few tests again, with the new colour PLA, same results really. i calibrated the 100MM extruding check, mine was circa 102mm. i did back the spring, right off, on the extruding wheel upgrade. it did seem to be grinding up the new red PLA. it makes sense that it is underextruding, when the print first starts, it looks fine. the best part of the print is the apron! then it gets progressively worse, which would tie in with the pre-melted pla in the head running low. sadly i think i will have to take the head apart, can you tell i am not too keen on doing that! ugh. its never been apart since i have made it, so i guess now is a good time to see how its all looking in there. i will try one more print with the extruder upgrade spring backed off, fingers crossed for that small spring.
  5. Update, I tried printing at circa 240' same problems, I changed out the PLA for another reel , but from the same supplier and same age as the failing silver one, initially it looked good and I let it print for quite sometime, circa 220 degrees, but half was through I could see it was looking brittle again, so I stopped it and sure enough it was just like the other failed prints, very stringy looking and hence a weak print, it even breaks as I peel it off the bed. I printed some smaller parts, belt tensioner s but they too are so stringy and brittle, even though there does seem to be a good amount of PLA being extruded. All the settings looked ok, it seemed to feed ok, seems to melt ok, I am at a loss. I will try some old off cut PLA I have, from a different supply, it's very frustrating, more so because it worked fine with identical everything , the night before. I don't fancy the task of, or think it is the hot end blocked, but I guess I should take it apart so I can rule it out.
  6. thanks for the replies - i can fill in a few of the blank details, i had already tried and looked at a few things on my ultimachine. one day i printed a 5 hour part with my usual settings, came out just fine. the following day i come to print the opposite handed piece, with identical everything, setting, same PLA, same Cura etc. twice on the bounce i tried it with the same de-lamination. i had looked at the e-stepper, as i thought i may have messed this up when using the ultimaker panel, this was 836, which is inline with alot of people with the extruder upgrade. i can turn the extruder by hand easily and filament feeds fine and extrudes fine, even at my normal temp of circa 220. i am unsure of what pressure to use on the extruder spring, it had been fairly tight, i backed that off for my second failed print,i can see the knurled marks on the pla as it moves throught the pipe. so i even though its not perfect, i dont think this is causing my problems, if i hold my fingers on the pla going in, i can feel it moving through smoothly. i will check the pla shape tonight. i did measure its diameter and it was a consistent 2.82mm. i dont think the head is clogged, i will heat up the head and let some push through, but i have sort of done that already. the cooling fan is an interesting area, since i blew my darlington transistor a while back and since them the fan has always been on (new part ordered) but i have printed many parts with the fan like this. the fan head looks fine - not interferring with the nozzle temp. now then PLA itself, this is an older reel , maybe 5 months old, it had no silica bag in it to remove moisture, (i have 6 of these reels!!) it was stored in the loft / attic, i have read on the moisture content before, because alot of my reels tend to go off* toward the end of the reel if i dont use them up fast enough. i have heard people put themin the oven to dry them out too, i think i will wait for my wife to be in another country before i dare do that! i will go for an ever higher temp print, the last one was 235 degrees :-|. the only thing i did different when preparing this print, was normally i set the temp of the ultimaker, on the control panel. for this one i set the temp in cura (i had been leaving that on 0 because i used to get the error of mintemp on the controller) but i had upgraded to cura 13 to try fix my brittle printing error and i noticed the mintemp error had gone in this version.
  7. ultimaker with v2 hotend and the upgraded feeder. cura 12 / 13 ultimaker control panel, NO heatbed it all used to work just fine, now this week it seems to be printing very weak and brittle prints, they seem as if they are laminated. all the settings i previouslyused, no longer seem to work, i used to print with pla at about 215-220 now ive had to try to increase the temp to about 230-235 and seemingly still no success. the print seems stringy, i initially started the print at all default speeds etc etc. 0.2 layer height and the examples i am showing were at 80% infil, i used the ultipanel to play about with the temperature while printing, but it was at 235 when the pla seemed to be flowing evenly. earlier i had printed off a similar item to the one in the picture@ 220 degrees and it turned out fine, then i have tried twice to now print out a second piece and it just comes apart as i lift it off the bed. i tried lowering the temp to 200 ish and it comes out very rough in parts ie bumps in it, so on the next layer print the head catches on the bumps. if that makes sense. i had used different pla prior to these larger parts and that was starting to show similar issues. its the fact the part is so weak in structure, the long belts need a belt tensioner, they are not bad, but they do need a tighten, but i cant even print a belt tesnioner, because they are so brittle. so any idea on what i should be looking for, am i going the wrong way with the heat, should i be lowering it, i am sure i tried a different item, but at a low temp and it was just the same. any ideas would be appreciated pictures here the prints in the pics have been destroyed a little by me as i tried to see what their DNA was like, but in the main you can see the delamination effect
  8. you nailed it, one of the belts had a small-ish amount of play in it, tightened up and seems alot better now. these ultimakers require more love and attention than my wife! i wonder if i can sell her and get another Ultimaker, i may put the idea to her and see.
  9. How do I explain, say I have a picture frame shape with a hole in it,the edges form fine the hole perimeter seems to form fine, but but but, I've noticed of late a lot of my prints don't seem to infil fully. The perimeters seem to peel away from the infil, if that makes sense, it's as if the infil isn't overlapping the perimeters. I've reinstalled cura a few times and its The latest version. It never used to to this, the holes wouldn't be great before, but now the holes shell is almost always not bonded to the main part. It happens at 25% infil through to 100 %. I use PLA at about 220' I've used it lower too circa 195. No change. Everything else is at default settings , to my knowledge. Is there some setting I've changed. Oh to add, I've printed from two computers and now I use the ultimaker controller, but with the same outcome. I will try do a test piece and take a photo , if its unclear what I mean
  10. I use the cura software, with the marlin firmware, my min temp issues are currently gone, It seemed to occur after I bailed out on a failed print and I used to just disconnect the printer. If I used reset on cura, this fixed all my min temp issues. I have no links to cura software, but I suggest you use it, once you have done a few prints, you will not look back. Good luck
  11. Ok thanks that's very good to know, I had wondered what the reset was for. I think , before the error occurred, I had a poor starting print and I hit disconnect, while it was still running, ooooops. I don't think this will of helped. The first time I got the error , I may well of done the samething, not 100% sure, but I think it was on the back of me cancelling a print.
  12. Aghhhhhh I can see this being frustrating. I gave all the wires a good check and a wiggle the first time it happened, but it didn't seem to immediately fix it. Same thing this time, a bit of wire wiggling, a few computer restarts and clean install of software. I skipped the firmware update , just to eliminate one thing. It's back up and running now. I will hok it upto another machine for a work out too, I have some strange programming tools and drivers on the one it's running from. A bad soldered joint is in my mind, or a misfiring pcb. I've no idea where I stand on that one with ultimaker, as regards returns and warranty. Anyway I'll keep eliminating possible causes as best I can. Thanks for the help.
  13. Ok my problem is back, for no apparent reason, printed off a few jobs all fine, left the computer on, no related software running, ultimaker turned off too, come to use , from a cold start and the same error is back. I would imagine installing the software package again will fix it, but I'd like to find the causes for obvious reasons.
  14. I thought cables too at first, everything seems snug and nicely cable tied, but I pushed everything home anyway. I had a panic thinking the mobo had given up already, then I remember windows doing an update in the time between a successful print and this error. I just reinstalled the cura and print run bundle again which put it back to working fine.
  15. ok,,,,i fixed it,,,,i re installed cura and printrun and seems ok again,,,,kinda strange
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