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chronoless

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  1. A workaround was to use no infill and very thick walls. Because it's a long rectangular box that worked .
  2. That's a quick reply! Thanks . Is there any editor you can recommend?
  3. Hi, would it be possible to have my ultimaker lay down all the lines making up a box lined up into one direction? So that all the lines go into a horizontal direction (rather than a grid or a diagonal grid)? I know this is usually not what you would want because of strength etc. But I'd like to do a test that requires this .
  4. I have a similar setup with the webcam. What webcam software do you use? I now use yawcam but it's a little bit crappy so I'm looking for something more suitable. Any suggestions?
  5. I've used the project planner for a few times now. This time I wanted to print a small (50%) scaled version of the geared cube. However it seems like there is a drip of PLA on top of every printed part. I'm not sure what exactly went wrong as I wasn't there when it happened. Any idea how I can prevent this from happening? Thanks!
  6. I'm not sure if this has been posted somewhere on the forum before but there is a Kickstarter project on a new (generic) nozzle assembly.
  7. I was wondering if it is possible and many even easier to use a 'heated' fan rather than a heated bed? Does anybody have any experience with it or some arguments why it may or may not work .
  8. I've done a bit of testing with ABS and I still prefer PLA. ABS also has some interesting pro's though. It seems to flow/fill better. It's difficult to describe how exactly . Also it's not as glossy as PLA. The glossiness shows the imperfections really well. Also ABS has a few material properties that can also be beneficial like strength and temperature resistance. The reasons I don't use ABS most of the times: It smells bad. It wraps; a lot. You can solve this by using a raft but it depends on the design of the part if it actually works satisfactory. It doesn't stick as good to the tape as P
  9. My gut feeling tells me that it should work better. Let's say there is a slight variation in the distance between the tape on the bed and the nozzle compared to the first object (there is no such thing as perfect anyway, right? ). If I then have the choice between laying down a layer without perfect circumstances on a layer of tape or on a layer of PLA I'd prefer the latter. The printer is capable of recovering from imperfections in the PLA anyway for example when a little bit of material comes off the nozzle onto the print or when the tape is a little damaged. Also I like to turn the Z-scre
  10. Today I've done some experimenting with the project planner. When using the project planner is it possible to have the first layers of all objects laid down first before moving onto building the first object? I would like to be next to the printer so I can make some on the go adjustments in case the first layer doesn't stick. I'm confident that from the first layer on this will go right. Earlier today I executed a project planner exported print. This print consisted out of three tall objects (+- 8 cm height). After I came back I saw that one of the objects had magically disappeared from the
  11. Mine is also really loud. Looking for a replacement one. Ultimaker should really provide a better quality fan.
  12. Anybody have an idea? Thanks!
  13. Thanks for the comments ! Today I've been looking into the limited quality I've been getting printing the transparent PLA. When the Ultimaker extrudes at a limited pace the extrusion seems to be not working properly. Two threads I've extruded with the extrude button. It extruded relatively slow but about the same speed as used in the print. This is what the thread looks like when I extrude with force (manual feed or fast extrude) This is what it looks like when extruding with motor slowly. I've been seeing the same pattern in my print which makes it look opaque rather than transparen
  14. Hi all, I've just completed the build of my Ultimaker. I'm happy with the first results and now I'd like to optimize a bit. Some of the stuff I've printed looks great other stuff not so much. I hope you guys have some ideas on how to improve. I think it's most software related stuff as the hardware seems to work just fine (also evident from some of the print results for as far as I can judge). Here some of the results and observations. Yoda printed by Printrun, Sliced by Netfabb, Standard hollow profile. Looks good I guess. (I've removed some stringing) The Whistle printed with Print
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