LePaul

I have a weird issue with a slice I am working on. When I have the second extruder set to BB 0.8 and Ultimaker White Breakaway, under the Support section, I am not getting the Set Extruder option for the supports. I've verified the extruder is not disabled. Am I missing something really obvious? 😀

I have a question about how Cura computes the number of top layers once Adaptive Layers is ticked on. For the record I am using the default options for AL I love how the AL option can really smooth out prints with a curved surface However I am noticing some minor pillowing, such as on this part. I had the top layers set to 4 using a 0.25mm layer resolution (0.8mm nozzle). Shouldn't the logic increase thinner layers to completely cover the top layer? Is there an option within AL that I missed that I need to be more attentive to? I've encountered this before and wanted to post this question. Thanks! (Yes, C-3PO's foot)

Just the ruby. I have some Ultimaker PC filament so I'm going to try some higher temp material and do some hot and cold pulls again. I chatted with Erin at Fabrc8 and she mentioned the TFM coupler might be needing replacement, though I don't have a ton of time on it since changing it a while back

I'm having the same issue on the Olsson Ruby I bought a while back and have used quite a bit. I've used PLA, PETG, ABS and CF HTPLA (Protopasta) and XT-CF20 (ColorFabb) Initially it worked very well but as of late, extrusion rate/flow has been inconsistent. I dial in flow rate for any new material I load, since my prints tend to be 24-36 hours long (lot's of detail!). Even after properly computing the flow rate, I'll get a print that looks "Ok" and the next will crumble like Styrofoam in your hand. I did a few Atomic Pulls with PLA to clean it out and I have some nylon I can also use. I sent Anders a message to see what he suggests. I'm trying to find an alternate hardened nozzle that will work in the 2+ I don't think the 2+ could use something like the E3D NozzleX, can it?

I haven't had issues with flatness. I do have a textured Wham Bam plate and per their advice, sanded it down a bit since it was a tad tall in spots I've used BuildTak and various PEI from a variety of vendors. BuildTak seemed harder to keep clean and unforgiving if you leveled too close to the bed. (We all have bad days!) PEI eventually failed for me, coming off the bed itself. So far, I haven't killed any of my Wham Bam beds. I just use the steel wool every few prints to rough it up then 91% IPA to wipe it down with a micro fiber cloth. Glass...well, I have a ColorFabb High Temp CoPolyester print I did that fused to the glass. That was interesting

Thanks for thinking of me! No concrete experience, everything we do is polymers. Our 3D Printed Boat in 2019 was printed in CF-ABS We just completed a 3D Printed House using bio materials (wood pla variant) https://www.boston.com/news/local-news/2022/12/05/umaine-unveils-the-worlds-first-bio-based-3d-printed-house/ In the Concepting Lab I manage, we have 7 Ultimaker S5's, 2 Modix 120X's and we're assembling an modifying a Voron 2.4. My "hobby' turned into a full time job. (Better budget too!)

I'm working with a filled ABS material that's a bit experimental. I'm struggling with the 0.6 CC (Ruby) core but due to the fill used, I am getting some clogging. I have run into this trouble with some wood filled materials and the 0.8 core works great. However this material is abrasive (glass fill) and I don't see UM sells a 0.8 hardened core. Is there any source for a 0.8 hardened core?

I don't know how to do it clean...I did do an install into a custom folder instead of the default one the installer likes to use. I had seem in my search some had issues and a new path helped. That didnt work for me I haven't tried your suggestion since 4.13.1 works

You inspired me to try something. Installed 4.13.1 and when it loaded I got a SideBar error, then it moved on and loaded fine. I uninstalled SideBar. I then installed 5.2.1 since that just came out today and that won't launch either. I went into the AppData \ Roaming \ cura \ 5.2 folder and no cura.log

No AV running I try to stat it, I get the spinning icon for a few seconds and that's as far as I get.

Windows 10 (10.0.19044 Build 19044) OpenGL version 4.4

Using my personal laptop at work, I decided to go to the website (here) and download the latest, being 5.2 Installed no problem but will not launch. I tried Run as an Administrator and no change. With no log files to offer, I am not sure what to try next? I tried going to the previous version of 5.1 and that also fails to run. 4.8 does tho.

I think my next follow up would be what settings in MATERIALS.TXT does Ultimaker recommend? Ive used nGen a lot in the past. It prints well but I’ve found it to not be very strong. That snap can be alarming!

Wow, your machine/system certainly has some issues. I'm sure someone from Ultimaker will reach out about this, such as @SandervG to help you. You made a big investment and you certainly need someone to help you through these error messages.

I'm glad you asked, I had wondered what the upgrade path would be for that machine as well I love my UM2+ and I really love my Ultimaker S5's I purchased for my workplace (six of them). I was hoping the 2 Connect would have a bit more of what the 3 and S5 have in a smaller package. It doesn't and I haven't had a chance to print on one to really see what I like better on it over my 2+ I do like the door and how they are addressing the environmental issues (fumes/vocs/nanoparticles). I feel like most people have no idea how these things will cause them harm later in life.

Hello! A few months back I shared my experience using Wham Bam Bed Systems on my Ultimaker 2+ I removed the glass bad and adhered the magnetic sheet and them Wham Bam spring steel bed with PEX coating. While it did work well, I found two issues and I shared them with WB. First was the removal of the glass bed made leveling a bit complicated, since you use up a lot of the spring travel in the bed to get level. It works but you could wind up with a rather springy bed. Second was the spring steel bed has tabs that covered the bed clips, so the clips had to go. I suggested to WB that they make cutouts in the magnet and spring steel to account for the clips. They sent me a prototype magnetic sheet and bed for my 2+ and the S5 since I have several of those at work. The result is fantastic. I bought a new glass bed from Fabrc8 and used that for my Wham Bam magnet. They advise waiting 48 hours for the 3M adhesive to cure. 2 days later, I started bed leveling and printing on it. It really works great! On my S5's at work, we've had an a PETG print take a chunk of glass out of a bed. We have done a variety of materials on the surface and we're very happy with the WB product I wipe it down before each print with IPA and every few prints, as they advise, I scuff it up with the included steel wool. Here's my review video below...check it out! If you wish you try it out, Wham Bam has offered a 10% coupon code (WNIC2022)

If you go to Color Fabb's website on this material, they have a Download section for MDS (material data sheet) and TDS (Technical data sheet). Back then, they didn't list too much in there. I work at a research lab and it has opened my eyes to being safer. That said, I would advise printing in an enclosure that has air filtration/fume extraction. It wouldn't be a bad idea to wear gloves when handling or even wearing a mask when handling the material. I'm using a Ruby Olsson Nozzle on my Ultimaker 2+ to print this material and it has an after market (PrintedSolid) enclosure on top. I am using a 3D Upfitter Carbon Filter to help mitigate the VOCs and nanoparticles generated while printing. In addition to that, I have a large (Honeywell) air purifier with HEPA filtration running in the shop. So, every little bit helps. I find, printing at 250C, the material flows very nicely and great prints. I added 0.40 vertical lift (z hop) and that has eliminated the blobs for me. I am finding my flow rate has to be pretty scaled back to print dimensionally accurate. It could be the filament diameter, which has been 2.82 in spots, or closer to 3 in others.

Oh that’s one I use and could explain the slowness I’d say drop him a message but he is extraordinarily slow to respond. I’ve been waiting for months (close to a year) for a reply from him. (Both email or forum PM)

I'd be happy to install the plug in and analyze why it runs so slowly on my home laptop.

Just one thought, since I have an Ultimaker 2+ that I still use (and love)... Is your filament dry? Have you tried drying it? Sometimes filament with moisture in it can print and look awful, leading you to making a lot of changes that don't help.

Hi I have seen some profiles in Cura have the Nozzle Size pull down available from the top menu. The screenshot below is for the Ultimaker 2+. I have seen a few other non-Ultimaker printers have this ability in their profiles. How can this be added for other printers I own?

There are thousands of Ultimaker 2/2+/Extendeds out there and I feel like Cura is leaving those machines behind in favor of the newer ones. The UM2+ is a great machine Please add material support for Ultimaker PETG and Ultimaker Tough PLA I just finished testing out some Ultimaker Tough PLA on my 2+ and it prints beautifully. I've also been told elsewhere to "just use the CPE profile" to print with Ultimaker PETG. That's unhelpful! Please, you have so many of these machines out there and we would appreciate it if added support for those materials.

Okay so I got this upgrade completed! I was a little concerned about the bed z travel being very near the top of where it could go. But some adjusting of the bed leveling screws got it all set. No major surgery required! I was a little concerned the bed/magnet/PEX plate wouldn't have the same flatness that a glass bed offers However all of my prints, after the usually bed leveling adjustments, are printing great! Here's my video on all the fun upgrades I did to my Ultimaker 2+

Your local hardware store or if you have a hobby store, should have metric. Where are you located? If in the states, I've found some at Lowes and Home Depot, usually phillips head and not as nice as the stock hardware.

Hi For years I have used a magnetic sheet on top of the glass bed and a spring steel/PEI surface Over the years, that sheet has started to underperform and simply worn out. I have Wham Bam Bed Systems on several of my other non-Ultimaker machines and wanted to try it the UM2+ Here's what I've noticed and done so far I hope this will work! First, the Wham Bam Bed (WB) has the PEX pre-applied. One less decal you have to worry about an air bubble ruining your day! Second, the WB Bed tabs lay on top of the glass bed's retaining clips. Whether you wanted to use the glass bed or not, they are in the way. Now, I suppose you could use some metal shears and trim the WB bed, but that could damage it too. I contacted WB and they indicated the suggested method of applying the magnet direct on the heated bed. I went ahead and unscrewed the bed leveling knobs in the front and removed the clips. I put everything back together. (The rear ones aren't in the way so I left them alone.) I thoroughly cleaned the bed surface with IPA and carefully applied the magnet to the bed. Sounds good, right? Well, without the glass bed, when you go to level the new surface, it's very close to the top end of the range of movement for the Z axis. I also noticed as I was adjusting the bed via the leveling springs, I was nearing the tops of those, too. My first test print was using Grey filament, which is super hard to see on that surface! My bed leveling looked too close so tonight I'll try again using White PLA Has anyone else used WhamBam on the UM2/UM2+ ?