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LePaul

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Posts posted by LePaul

  1. 2 hours ago, Torgeir said:

    Hi @LePaul,

     

    Is this only happen with the Olsson Ruby?  Or is this an issue with any nozzle?

     

    Thanks

     

    Torgeir.

     

     

    Just the ruby.  I have some Ultimaker PC filament so I'm going to try some higher temp material and do some hot and cold pulls again.  I chatted with Erin at Fabrc8 and she mentioned the TFM coupler might be needing replacement, though I don't have a ton of time on it since changing it a while back

  2. On 9/10/2019 at 2:12 PM, mayo77 said:

    Did you ever solve this issue? I am having exactly the same issues with a ruby nozzle, and ran across this thread.

     

    I have tried everything even mentioned in this thread and yet the problem persists I really want to use this specific nozzle but non stop failures due to under extrusion, just wont work for me.

     

    One thing i have noticed is when i remove the material after a "under extrusion failure" the last 33mm of the filament are slightly thicker than the rest. I believe this could be the issue but i have replaced the PTFE coupler many times entire hotend a few times and the problem still persists.

     

    I'm having the same issue on the Olsson Ruby I bought a while back and have used quite a bit.  I've used PLA, PETG, ABS and CF HTPLA (Protopasta) and XT-CF20 (ColorFabb)  Initially it worked very well but as of late, extrusion rate/flow has been inconsistent.  I dial in flow rate for any new material I load, since my prints tend to be 24-36 hours long (lot's of detail!).  Even after properly computing the flow rate, I'll get a print that looks "Ok" and the next will crumble like Styrofoam in your hand.

     

    I did a few Atomic Pulls with PLA to clean it out and I have some nylon I can also use.

     

    I sent Anders a message to see what he suggests.

     

    I'm trying to find an alternate hardened nozzle that will work in the 2+   I don't think the 2+ could use something like the E3D NozzleX, can it?

     

  3. On 1/19/2023 at 11:52 AM, peterbecz said:

    I've been 3D printing for about 10 years. Played with scores of printers, filaments, build plates, etc.  The best combo  I have found is glass buildplate, Buildtak and a light coat of Elmer's Glue stick. 

    Put the finished printed into the fridge for about 30 minutes.  Prints will pop off easily with a putty knife and gentle tab from a small hammer and doesn't make a ness.

    Works every time! And I never use brim/raft/skirt for build plate adhesion.  

    Works for PLA & ABS and their variants.

     

    I am planning the try a flex build plate soon.  My main concern is the 'flatness' of the flex plate over time.

     

    I haven't had issues with flatness.  I do have a textured Wham Bam plate and per their advice, sanded it down a bit since it was a tad tall in spots

     

    I've used BuildTak and various PEI from a variety of vendors.  BuildTak seemed harder to keep clean and unforgiving if you leveled too close to the bed.  (We all have bad days!)  PEI eventually failed for me, coming off the bed itself.

     

    So far, I haven't killed any of my Wham Bam beds.  I just use the steel wool every few prints to rough it up then 91% IPA to wipe it down with a micro fiber cloth.

     

    Glass...well, I have a ColorFabb High Temp CoPolyester print I did that fused to the glass.  That was interesting

     

     

    • Laugh 1
  4. 4 hours ago, gr5 said:

    I think @LePaul may have printed with concrete.  He works for a university and has printed a full scale boat I think?  But maybe that was metal?  I forget - I have vague memories.  But he has certainly done some major cura hacks. 

     

    He hasn't posted here in a year but I can get you his email if you want.  But try direct messaging him.  He might get that as an email.  Click on his name and go to his profile and message him directly.  I've met him in person and we are facebook friends.

     

    If you do create a profile and/or machine profile it would be nice if you could submit it to the cura team for addition to the printers in the cura list.

     

     

    Thanks for thinking of me!

     

    No concrete experience, everything we do is polymers.

     

    Our 3D Printed Boat in 2019 was printed in CF-ABS

     

    We just completed a 3D Printed House using bio materials (wood pla variant)

     

    https://www.boston.com/news/local-news/2022/12/05/umaine-unveils-the-worlds-first-bio-based-3d-printed-house/

     

    In the Concepting Lab I manage, we have 7 Ultimaker S5's, 2 Modix 120X's and we're assembling an modifying a Voron 2.4.  My "hobby'  turned into a full time job.  (Better budget too!)

     

    • Heart 1
  5. I'm working with a filled ABS material that's a bit experimental.

     

    I'm struggling with the 0.6 CC (Ruby) core but due to the fill used, I am getting some clogging.

     

    I have run into this trouble with some wood filled materials and the 0.8 core works great.

     

    However this material is abrasive (glass fill) and I don't see UM sells a 0.8 hardened core.

     

    Is there any source for a 0.8 hardened core?

     

  6. 15 minutes ago, DivingDuck said:

    I just installed 5.2.1 for testing, runs fine for me., but this won't help you.

     

    Had you tried to run it "clean" w/o an existing configuration folder? Maybe worth a test. Rename (not delete, as you will loose your old configurations) the cura data folder to like "... \AppData \ Roaming \ cura-x" and start Cura.

     

     

     

    I don't know how to do it clean...I did do an install into a custom folder instead of the default one the installer likes to use.  I had seem in my search some had issues and a new path helped.  That didnt work for me

     

    I haven't tried your suggestion since 4.13.1 works

  7. 39 minutes ago, DivingDuck said:

    Only an suggestion, try to start it without AV.

     

    I had a crash where my installed debugger came up during the first time I start Cura and recognize that Windows generate a lot of telemetry and anti-malware system traffic during the first start. This seems to block some resources Cura needs for the first run to setup everything.

    There was an additional problem with Sidebar Gui 4.4.0. After I did install the latest development version from @fieldOfView the problems with crashes gone away.

     

     

     

    No AV running

     

    I try to stat it, I get the spinning icon for a few seconds and that's as far as I get.

  8. Using my personal laptop at work, I decided to go to the website (here) and download the latest, being 5.2

    Installed no problem but will not launch.

    I tried Run as an Administrator and no change.

     

    With no log files to offer, I am not sure what to try next?

     

    I tried going to the previous version of 5.1 and that also fails to run.

     

    4.8 does tho.

     

  9. I'm glad you asked, I had wondered what the upgrade path would be for that machine as well

     

    I love my UM2+ and I really love my Ultimaker S5's I purchased for my workplace (six of them).  

     

    I was hoping the 2 Connect would have a bit more of what the 3 and S5 have in a smaller package.  It doesn't and I haven't had a chance to print on one to really see what I like better on it over my 2+    I do like the door and how they are addressing the environmental issues (fumes/vocs/nanoparticles).  I feel like most people have no idea how these things will cause them harm later in life.

     

    • Like 1
  10. Hello!

     

    A few months back I shared my experience using Wham Bam Bed Systems on my Ultimaker 2+  

     

    I removed the glass bad and adhered the magnetic sheet and them Wham Bam spring steel bed with PEX coating.

    While it did work well, I found two issues and I shared them with WB.  

    First was the removal of the glass bed made leveling a bit complicated, since you use up a lot of the spring travel in the bed to get level.  It works but you could wind up with a rather springy bed.  

    Second was the spring steel bed has tabs that covered the bed clips, so the clips had to go.

     

    I suggested to WB that they make cutouts in the magnet and spring steel to account for the clips.  They sent me a prototype magnetic sheet and bed for my 2+ and the S5 since I have several of those at work.

     

    The result is fantastic.  I bought a new glass bed from Fabrc8 and used that for my Wham Bam magnet.  They advise waiting 48 hours for the 3M adhesive to cure.

    2 days later, I started bed leveling and printing on it.  It really works great!  On my S5's at work, we've had an a PETG print take a chunk of glass out of a bed.  We have done a variety of materials on the surface and we're very happy with the WB product  

     

    I wipe it down before each print with IPA and every few prints, as they advise, I scuff it up with the included steel wool.

     

    Here's my review video below...check it out!  

     

    If you wish you try it out, Wham Bam has offered a 10% coupon code (WNIC2022)

     

     

  11. On 1/13/2020 at 4:43 AM, Turan said:

    Guys

     

    Does anybody know how much concern should we have about exposing to xt or xt-cf20 while printing regarding the health? Does it make any cancer risks?

    Working in the lab where the printer is also working there I mean. The printer is opened without any shelter.

     

    Thanks

     

    If you go to Color Fabb's website on this material, they have a Download section for MDS (material data sheet) and TDS (Technical data sheet).  Back then, they didn't list too much in there.

     

    I work at a research lab and it has opened my eyes to being safer.  

     

    That said, I would advise printing in an enclosure that has air filtration/fume extraction.  It wouldn't be a bad idea to wear gloves when handling or even wearing a mask when handling the material.  

     

    I'm using a Ruby Olsson Nozzle on my Ultimaker 2+ to print this material and it has an after market (PrintedSolid) enclosure on top.  I am using a 3D Upfitter Carbon Filter to help mitigate the VOCs and nanoparticles generated while printing.  In addition to that, I have a large (Honeywell) air purifier with HEPA filtration running in the shop.  So, every little bit helps.

     

    I find, printing at 250C, the material flows very nicely and great prints.  I added 0.40 vertical lift (z hop) and that has eliminated the blobs for me.  I am finding my flow rate has to be pretty scaled back to print dimensionally accurate.  It could be the filament diameter, which has been 2.82 in spots, or closer to 3 in others.  

  12. Just one thought, since I have an Ultimaker 2+ that I still use (and love)...

     

    Is your filament dry?  Have you tried drying it?  Sometimes filament with moisture in it can print and look awful, leading you to making a lot of changes that don't help.

     

     

  13. There are thousands of Ultimaker 2/2+/Extendeds out there and I feel like Cura is leaving those machines behind in favor of the newer ones.

     

    The UM2+ is a great machine

     

    Please add material support for Ultimaker PETG and Ultimaker Tough PLA

     

    I just finished testing out some Ultimaker Tough PLA on my 2+ and it prints beautifully.

     

    I've also been told elsewhere to "just use the CPE profile" to print with Ultimaker PETG.  That's unhelpful!  

     

    Please, you have so many of these machines out there and we would appreciate it if added support for those materials.

     

     

  14. Okay so I got this upgrade completed!

     

    I was a little concerned about the bed z travel being very near the top of where it could go.  But some adjusting of the bed leveling screws got it all set.  No major surgery required!

     

    I was a little concerned the bed/magnet/PEX plate wouldn't have the same flatness that a glass bed offers  However all of my prints, after the usually bed leveling adjustments, are printing great!

     

    Here's my video on all the fun upgrades I did to my Ultimaker 2+

     

     

    • Like 2
  15. Hi

     

    For years I have used a magnetic sheet on top of the glass bed and a spring steel/PEI surface

     

    Over the years, that sheet has started to underperform and simply worn out.

     

    I have Wham Bam Bed Systems on several of my other non-Ultimaker machines and wanted to try it the UM2+

     

    Here's what I've noticed and done so far    I hope this will work!

     

    First, the Wham Bam Bed (WB) has the PEX pre-applied.   One less decal you have to worry about an air bubble ruining your day!

     

    Second, the WB Bed tabs lay on top of the glass bed's retaining clips.  Whether you wanted to use the glass bed or not, they are in the way.

     

    Now, I suppose you could use some metal shears and trim the WB bed, but that could damage it too.

     

    I contacted WB and they indicated the suggested method of applying the magnet direct on the heated bed.

     

    I went ahead and unscrewed the bed leveling knobs in the front and removed the clips.  I put everything back together.  (The rear ones aren't in the way so I left them alone.)

     

    I thoroughly cleaned the bed surface with IPA and carefully applied the magnet to the bed.

     

    Sounds good, right?

     

    Well, without the glass bed, when you go to level the new surface, it's very close to the top end of the range of movement for the Z axis.

     

    I also noticed as I was adjusting the bed via the leveling springs, I was nearing the tops of those, too.

     

    My first test print was using Grey filament, which is super hard to see on that surface!  My bed leveling looked too close so tonight I'll try again using White PLA

     

    Has anyone else used WhamBam on the UM2/UM2+ ?

     

  16. @nallath can you chime in on this thread?

    When I go to add a new material, such as the ColorFabb nGen (or really anything), I encounter the "No Profile" or the dreaded Yellow Exclamation mark.

     

    Let me roll back my question into two ...

     

    What is the proper process for a user to enter in a new material into Cura?

     

    How does the "Print Settings" tab, particularly the Retraction Distance and Retraction Speed affect different machines using the same material?  (I have 19 machines, some Bowden and some Direct Drive.  If enter in values that work on an Ultimaker 2+, they certainly won't work well on a Bondtech Direct Drive DDX equipped machine)

     

    Lets start there.  Thank you!

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