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Posts posted by LePaul

  1. I decided to go with brim and the changes I posted above.


    79% into the print and the area that failed previously is working very well.


    I'll let you know how the finished print does but so far (20 hour print), the big problem area seems to be working well.  I think the brim gives a stronger base for the support and added the one wall helped too.


  2. Ok, I've been looking at those settings.


    I think the problem is the foundation.  Even if I set a brim, the supports would be weak.


    It looks like the wings have good support but the base would again be the weak spot.  Can you offer some tips on the Join Distance and Horizontal expansion that might be good to try?



  3. Yes, Toothless from "How to Train Your Dragon" is a favorite of mine.


    And there's a great model (without supports one) on Thingiverse.  (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2335797)


    However no matter what I've done, the supports fail on the wings on the back


    Using the latest Cura.... and really stumped as to how to get this little fella printed successfully!  It's eluded me a few times!


  4. Has anyone experienced filament grinding from an old TFT?  


    I have repeated grinding going on with my Ultimaker brand PLA using the default Cura/Ultimaker PLA settings recently.


    I have repeatedly disassembled, cleaned with a brass brush and tooth brush the hobbed knob/feeder and removed all the debris.  I also see little pieces of debris in the Bowden I can't seem to remove.


    I have the feeder tension at 3/4 (following documentation provided by Fabrc8)


    I have several hundred hours on my UM2+ and all I can figure out is that there's some backpressure somewhere...my thoughts are replace the TFT and Bowden tube at this point.


    But before doing so, I am curious if my "theory" is correct...bad TFT.



  5. 9 hours ago, bob-hepple said:

    Le Paul 

    just got some of this Gold Rush Cant seem to get a decent print its leaving blobs at the start of a layer even in vase mode ?? any thoughts




    I used Simplify3D and used 215 for the first layer then 210 for the rest.  

    I didn't have any blobbing issues you mention.  I bought 2.85 and 1.75 versions and for the latter, used it on my CR-10S using the same temp.


    That first priming if the nozzle is so weird, as I mention in the video


    I can't recall if I used Cura or not for any of the prints.  My Ultimaker 2+ is down right now, I keep grinding up filament in the feeder....I think my TFT has finally gone bad on me so I have to replace that.


  6. Hi


    Im aware of that, it popped out after I opened up the housing.  I wish that was the root cause since I did put it back upon reassembly.  Now if the level indication goes up, that’s less tension?  For some reason I’m having trouble with Ultimaker filament.  The previous types I had in there printed  very well. 

  7. I'm a bit stumped on this and I think I have a solution...but thought I would ask my friends here for their thoughts.


    I had a print display extrusion issues and then fail, air printing for a while before I noticed it.  The back of the machine under the extruder was full of chewed up filament.


    I have the extruder tensioner set to the middle, which I think....I could be wrong...has always been the default position.


    I was using a spool of Ultimaker black PLA that had been sitting out for a year.  I don't think PLA is susceptible to absorbing moisture as much as other filaments....but it's worth mentioning as we debug this!


    I cleaned out the extruder by removing it and cleaning it, using the steps documented here and those provided by Fabrc8.


    I put everything back together, re-attached to the Ultimaker 2+ and as a precaution, did 3 Atomic pulls to clean out the nozzle/make sure no issues existed there.


    I opened a new package of Ultimaker Black PLA...everything was sealed and new!


    Started a new print and a while into the print, the same thing happened.


    Now I suspect I have a simple case of too much tension on the filament, causing the grinding.  What position should it be at by default (if such a thing exists)?


    Back to cleaning this fella out again!


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  8. I've had mixed results with it, I bought some 1.75mm by accident and using it on my CR-10.


    It indicates "195 is ideal" but my prints at that temperature show poor adhesion....you can rip the piece apart with ease.

    I had tried higher temps but overhangs suffered as a result.


    The areas it prints well look nice, no "shine" we're used to with regular filaments


    I'm trying 205C this time...perhaps that will be a good balance of strength and able to do overhangs well.


  9. Good read, I often encounter what Sander showed as number 3...a tad too high.


    @geert_2 good to know about PETG.  I just received some and everyone seems to think this stuff is better than PLA.  The datasheets don't entirely agree with that.  But good to have some bed temp info.  (Side note...from what I've read, it's very similar to ColorFabb nGen in  tensile strength)


    I've wound up using hairspray as my goto surface for the past year.  Tried PEI sheet and it was a real struggle to remove prints.  I often had to put them in the freezer to pop free.  Then you wind up re-leveling the bed all over again.  


    I got many months out of the diluted wood glue method but extra hold hairspray is just so much more convenient for me.


    I use rubbing alcohol to clean the glass bed.

  10. I've seen this material heavily advertised and like most CF filaments, do not seem to live up to the advertising hype.


    I have thought about trying this material out, to see how it compared to ColorFabb's CF (which is a nightmare to use)

  11. Anyone have some secret settings on how to get this to print a little bit better than I am?


    I'm printing and 210 and the box/instructions seem to indicate hotter might be better.  But the strands on the top make me think my retraction distance should be adjusted?  Maybe coasting?  




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