Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts
  • Sign Up


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by LePaul

  1. 205 definitely came out much better. I concur slowing the speed down will help with overhangs and more complicated objects
  2. I'm a bit stumped on this and I think I have a solution...but thought I would ask my friends here for their thoughts. I had a print display extrusion issues and then fail, air printing for a while before I noticed it. The back of the machine under the extruder was full of chewed up filament. I have the extruder tensioner set to the middle, which I think....I could be wrong...has always been the default position. I was using a spool of Ultimaker black PLA that had been sitting out for a year. I don't think PLA is susceptible to absorbing moisture as much as other filaments....but it's worth mentioning as we debug this! I cleaned out the extruder by removing it and cleaning it, using the steps documented here and those provided by Fabrc8. I put everything back together, re-attached to the Ultimaker 2+ and as a precaution, did 3 Atomic pulls to clean out the nozzle/make sure no issues existed there. I opened a new package of Ultimaker Black PLA...everything was sealed and new! Started a new print and a while into the print, the same thing happened. Now I suspect I have a simple case of too much tension on the filament, causing the grinding. What position should it be at by default (if such a thing exists)? Back to cleaning this fella out again!
  3. Printing at 60 mm/s and 0.10 layer height The cat model came out great. But printing a piece for another printer, it really failed badly. Trying again at a warmer temp (205) I'll report back in 5 hours!
  4. I've had mixed results with it, I bought some 1.75mm by accident and using it on my CR-10. It indicates "195 is ideal" but my prints at that temperature show poor adhesion....you can rip the piece apart with ease. I had tried higher temps but overhangs suffered as a result. The areas it prints well look nice, no "shine" we're used to with regular filaments I'm trying 205C this time...perhaps that will be a good balance of strength and able to do overhangs well.
  5. Oh I had one of these...still have spare parts.
  6. I meant to inquire...what's the salt method?
  7. Good read, I often encounter what Sander showed as number 3...a tad too high. @geert_2 good to know about PETG. I just received some and everyone seems to think this stuff is better than PLA. The datasheets don't entirely agree with that. But good to have some bed temp info. (Side note...from what I've read, it's very similar to ColorFabb nGen in tensile strength) I've wound up using hairspray as my goto surface for the past year. Tried PEI sheet and it was a real struggle to remove prints. I often had to put them in the freezer to pop free. Then you wind up re-leveling the bed all over again. I got many months out of the diluted wood glue method but extra hold hairspray is just so much more convenient for me. I use rubbing alcohol to clean the glass bed.
  8. I've seen this material heavily advertised and like most CF filaments, do not seem to live up to the advertising hype. I have thought about trying this material out, to see how it compared to ColorFabb's CF (which is a nightmare to use)
  9. Anyone have some secret settings on how to get this to print a little bit better than I am? I'm printing and 210 and the box/instructions seem to indicate hotter might be better. But the strands on the top make me think my retraction distance should be adjusted? Maybe coasting? Ideas?
  10. Just bought a spool since I need something that can handle warm temps and, well, everyone around me seems to be using it! In talking with an Ultimaker friend ? She suggested using the CPE profile to print with it. Oh and some caution about removing it from the glass.
  11. 4gb of RAM? That's barely running your operating system (and thus the low windows score)
  12. What's your processor? My Intel i5 laptop only has 12gb of RAM and like most things on Windows 10 with under 16gb of RAM...stuff is slow. My other laptop is an Intel i7-3630QM (2.4ghz quad core) with 32gb RAM and Samsung EVO 950 SSD. From double click to Cura ready to go takes 15.58 seconds. (Simplify3D is 2.51 seconds) I wish the program didn't bog down while working on models, rotating and previewing. My new desktop is an Intel I7 7700, 32gb, SSD and nvidia GTX1070. It's clunky there too.
  13. I created a video on how to setup the Octoprint Plugin...so in the spirit of helping others...
  14. Ok now that the right version of the plugin is being distributed, and it is now working, I went ahead and made a YouTube video on how to set it up and configure it. Here it is! https://youtu.be/rXAHfPQfhdE
  15. Has this been fixed in the current release? (Didn't see any version number change)
  16. You are correct, the monitor window. Sorry for mixing that up. It would be nice if the Change Log indicated what was fixed in the Plug In in the future. People see "Octoprint PlugIn" on the changelog but nothing beyond that.
  17. I had to go back to the Github (https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues/3725#issuecomment-401177296) and download the file and replace the one that was in 3.4 Placed a GitHub request on this.
  18. Octoprint Plug In seems to still have issues. In the Cura CONNECT window, I am not getting any video. New PC. Clean install of Cura. Video feed works fine from Octoprint webserver. But not from Cura
  19. I know you already closed out the Github but felt compelled to let you know...got it working with your workaround!
  20. I just watched a review on the Palette + (I think it was George's Gadgets) and those prints came out really amazing. It's only for 1.75mm filament and he kind of glanced over the installation process. (I hate it when reviews do that! Show me the pain and the victories!) It's an interesting approach to multi material printing. What impressed me is that is supports PVA and other support materials. How a 3 in 1 would do remains to be seen. You seem to be the trailblazer there! I asked John Folger that very questions [high mounted steppers] and he said it was a bit of an ongoing controversy. I haven't been a fan of the moving beds for a long time and sort of endure them since, frankly, the printers are so cheap! There's a lot you can do to reduce the weight, adjust acceleration, jerk and other settings. I've moved away from glass and use either mirror tile or polypropelene bed surfaces. (Tiny Machines for the latter) But I think you understand the issue really well...if your bed is going to move and wobble, adhesion and a good first layer is paramount to success. From my background in building aluminum robots (such as my full-size R2-D2), I have a deep love of all things aluminum. I wanted to make my own bed but I think it would be too heavy. ACM is basically 1/8 inch (or less from what I can see) sandwiched around some plastic type material. How well it works as a 3D printer bed remains to be seen...it looks very flat! It's also a very cost effective material for sign shops (it turns out my sign making friend has all kinds of it in stock). I have also seen some that has a wood/wood looking material in the middle. Here's the link to what I am using: https://www.th3dstudio.com/product/ezabl-kit-ez-connect-version-cr-10-abl/ It's using open source firmware (Marlin) and it is doing a 4 x 4 (16 points) grid with the proximity sensor. For those of us with imperfect glass or just like the idea of an auto bed leveling device, it works very well. It many cases people are replacing the bed springs with metal or plastic spacers and use only the sensor. On the first layer, you can Babystep the first layer, moving Z up or down in great detail for a perfect first layer. It isn't set it and forget it, every filament seems to work a bit differently, I find I have to raise or lower on different brands. It's just how it flows. I followed the advice given here and elsewhere, diluted wood glue with water, at a 10:1 ratio. I keep it in a squeeze bottle and for quite some time, I would paint a thin layer of it on a clean piece of glass, heat and it would work great. However on my moving bed printers, it sometimes wasn't strong enough to hold down a large, 4 day print. (My BB-8 pieces) PEI sheets worked pretty good, removing them was a nightmare! I would really like to, the pricing isn't too crazy. I think BuildTak has a system they sell. Josef Prusa has really been a leader in this area of development. Lego robotics look fun. Probably a whole lot cheaper than the $10k I have wrapped up in my R2 ? (Details... https://www.facebook.com/PJsR2D2 )
  21. TH3D (Tim) and I have had some great conversations about those extruder upgrades. I'd be curious how yours works. I guess the one fun thing about these cheap printers is once you sort out any mechanical issues, it can be fun to tweak, customize and fine tune further. It's not for everyone....and it can be frustrating, since the Chinese printers lack any level of centralized support like Ultimaker, gMax, etc. The Facebook groups, YouTube channels and a handful of sites provide a lot of good information on various ways to upgrade, print different filaments, etc. I have a CR-10 that will undergo the upgrade to CR-10S electronics, dual z and changing out the stock hot end with a Micro Swiss all metal one. My CR-10S has an EZABL auto bed level sensor that works great. I was put off initially when reading about them, thinking it was more work than worth it. Then I did it (and documented it on video)...and wow, I love it. The Tevo is a bit of a challenge, Y stepper driver is under powered. I try to push new people away from this printer but they adore the sub-$400 price. It requires a good deal of work and modifications to print well. Toss in no Tevo support, instead relying on Facebook groups and it can be frustrating. I also need to replace the stepper drivers (already bought a new motherboard)...the ones on my board are soldered on and cause Salmon Skin/artifacts. The only positive on this machine is the AC powered bed for fast heating and a Titan/E3D clone extruder that works quite well. The bed surface is terrible and the bed level screws, when turned, simply rotate the screw...no change is made. You have to be mindful of that and have the hex wrench nearby. The FT-5 has melamine pieces and sadly, the bed is warped, defying all efforts to level the thing. I put a E3D Titan Aero on it and when I can get the printer close to level, does some of the best prints of all my printers! The printer vibrates a lot and the result has been several screws and t-nuts coming loose or the screws falling out. Folger Tech was kind enough to send me a replacement bed made of ACM (aluminum composite material). I kind of dread taking that printer apart again to install it. But this time I will make use of either nail polish or the non-permanent Loctite to help keep the t-nuts in place! I'm debating replacing the MKS 1.4 board with a Duet. And this week, Folger Tech shipped me their latest kit for review, their FT-i3 Mega. As the name infers, it's a clone of the popular i3 design and a 24v competitor to the CR-10/Tevo Tornado style printers. It also matches the print volume. The steppers for the z are located on top, which I find intriguing. Like most Folger Tech printers, it doesn't include a part cooling fan/setup. To their credit, the documentation looks really good, so I am looking forward to a few evenings putting that together.
  22. Simply because the Ultimaker lacks the print volume my projects require I started with Ultimakers...Ultimaker Original and saved saved saved and bought a reburb Ultimaker 2 from Fabrc8. I then upgraded that with the 2+ upgrade kit. But I needed to print larger. I've been asking/begging/suggestion larger print volume since 2016. So I bought a FT-5 kit ($399)...it prints big but the melamine bed structure is warped. I then bought a $399 CR-10 I have close to a thousand hours on that! Early last year I bought a CR-10S since I needed more larger pieces to print (BB-8) That was $600-ish And since friends were raving about the $329 Tevo Tornado, I decided to give that a try. Summary... even if I saved saved saved...i would still lack the print volume needed.
  23. Thanks for the likes... any feedback? Did I miss anything? :)
  • Create New...