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LePaul

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Posts posted by LePaul


  1. 3 hours ago, russlang said:

    I also have an Ultimaker 2 Extended which has started making a horrible grinding noise in both the X and Y directions. I just replace the linear bearings in the head but that didnt fix it. I'm pretty sure nothing is rubbing. It sounds like its coming from both the X and Y stepper motors.

     

    Here's a video of the sound. Does anyone have any ideas? 

     

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/ugs2271ds1rji0u/20180306_103045.mp4?dl=0

     

    My Ultimaker 2 made a very similar noise last night!  Is the filament grinding?  Check by the feeder for filament...or remove the filament and check for worn spots.

     

    Or...and @SandervG mentioned this on Facebook, you could have a clogged pulley, making it rough for the belt teeth to get in there.  I have to check mine tonight.

     

    I never heard this before...last night I tried my first spiralize (vase mode) and I thought it might be something going on with the Z.

     

    Another thought...what version of Cura?  I'm using the latest...so wondering, however remotely, if that is a factor?


  2. I keep on saying, over and over again, about Cura releases and Anti-Virus programs.  Only Cura does this to mine.  

     

    And just to repeat myself one more time....I really wish Ultimaker would fix this annoying issue :)  

     

    BTW, looked at the Adaptive Layers...I guess I need to read up on this a good deal more.  It sure adds a lot of print time to the test prints I was going to try it on!

     


  3. 3 hours ago, Brulti said:

    Thanks for the video, I need to get a wire brush now. ^^

     

    However, we can't hear a thing once you start cleaning, sound is very low, can barely make out what you're saying.

     

    I lowered it since the microphones were doing an exceptional job of picking up the brushing sound  :)


  4. Well a few weeks ago, I managed to develop a nasty BLOB in the print head of my Ultimaker 2+

     

    No...it wasn't a nozzle leak or anything that bad

     

    What happened is I bought a PEI sheet and installed that on my glass bed.  The PEI is very shiny and I didn't do the best job with the bed alignment.  One the last section of the first layer, the print started to come off.  Then the print head started to collide with that material and it got shoved into the fan should and heater block.  Thankfully I was home and near the printer when this happened.

     

    I documented how I cleaned it up on my YouTube Channel, here's the video so that if YOU wind up with a nasty mess....it can be fixed!

     

     

     

    • Like 1

  5. ABS is slowly slipping away as the preferred material for more hardness/ruggedness.   ABS can be tough to print with, you have the smell and also the harmful particles it put out (research this!).  Thankfully there are many new materials that offer the ease of working with PLA but higher strength and heat tolerance.

     

    If you stay "within the family" of Ultimaker, they offer their Engineering filaments.  I've used Polycarbonate and there are others out there....and since it's within the Ultimaker eco-system, you don't need to worry if it will work with your printer   And...there profiles for those filaments are built into Cura too.

     


  6. 4 hours ago, SandervG said:

    Amazing prints and post-processing skills. @LePaul, did you also see the BB-8? 

     

    I've been buried in emails from the forum so I missed it the first few times....that's a nice job on that BB-8  The weathering is great, too!

     

    I have a ways to go on mine, still printing segments of the body!

     


  7. I have 4 octoprint Raspberry Pi's...I have heard some talk about using one Pi for multiple printers but I wouldn't do that.  It seems the Pi3 is pretty taxed just talking to one printer and making sure there aren't time outs.

     

    I would not use a Windows install, I looked at it and decided a $50 Pi3/power supply/SD Card was a better investment   Mine's working okay!

     

    p.s. It looks like you are at the Manually Added Octoprint Instance    I've never had to do that using a Raspiberry Pi3 config.  I suggest trying it on a Pi3!


  8. 9 hours ago, DWTherapy said:

     

    Hey guys, looking forward to learning a lot here.  I hope resurfacing a post that's only a few months old isn't bad form.  In the market for my first 3d printer, and am trying to decide between the Prussa M3, CR-10s, and Ultimaker 2+ - hence why I'm posting here and now.

     

    I'm in a bit of a unique situation in that I'm working for a not-for-profit company in the developing world - providing therapy services for kids with disabilities.  I want to start with 3d printing to build braces/splints/AFO's/prosthetic hands for kids who wouldn't otherwise have access to these materials.

     

    As a result of my location, and the difficulty of ordering/receiving repair parts, and in a timely manner, one of my greatest values in purchasing a printer is it's dependability/reliability under normal use conditions with recommended maintenance being performed.  I'm getting the sense the Prussa lines may not be a great choice because of that.  Can anyone weigh in the Creality brand vs Ultimaker?  I'm heavily leaning to Ultimaker because of the support/community/company behind the machines, but the extra cost does give me pause.  Can you help persuade me?  From your collective experience, in your opinion, what do you think? 

     

    Thanks so much in advance!

    Aaron

     

    I have the Ultimaker 2+, Creality CR-10 and an FT-5 (Folger Tech) printer.  The FT-5 is landfill.  Don't bother.

     

    That said....there's a few things I mention that you might find interesting in a YouTube video I made recently..

     

     

    For what you are looking to do, I really think the Ultimaker 2+ is the better product.  The CR-10 has no support site.  You are essentially on your own to support this device.  It was not factory tested, calibrated and known to work accurately when it left China.  YES...they are tempting because for experienced 3D printing users, it's not terribly difficult to enhance, upgrade and calibrate.  The fad right now is printing BIG and doing so inexpensively.  You need to reflect on what you want to do...play warranty and hope for the best....or buy a machine that comes with a solid reputation, support system, tested, UL listed and comes from the factory with a test print showing it's ready to go out of the box.

     

    The push has been for cheap printers lately.  The Prusa's are nice, too but I'm not crazy about the construction of the MK2.  The newer MK3 is much more solid and who knows how long those take to get.

     

    I can tell you that my Ultimaker printers have been my go to printer for prints I know will come out superb out of all three printers.  I wish Ultimaker offered a larger volume printer, since I print large pieces for my robotic projects.  

     

    For what you have described, it sounds like you want to do more printing that troubleshooting.  The Ultimaker will cost more but perform so much better.

     

    Let us know what you decide to do and the results you experience.

     

     

     


  9. Getting some crashes here too.  It will be mid way through slicing and drop out on my Windows 10 Home/64 laptops.

     

    Another thing I had happen was my antivirus gave an alert to when trying to Save File to my local hard disk.  Cura still seems to have problems playing nice with antivirus software (TrendMicro in my case).

     


  10. I had the same troubles with my UM2 to UM2+ upgrade using the guides to align to the rods.  In my case, one broke when it fell off the work bench.  I also played the "chase the set screw" game.  

     

    Asides that ...and some awkwardness getting the new extruder gear/setup installed, the printer is working well..  I did a few 20 mm test cubes and they came out really good.


  11. I opted to experiment and bought a Creality CR-10 (300 x 300 x 400). They are about what you would expect from a cheap, Chinese 3D printer.

    Out of the box, once you have done some calibration, they can print very good resolution and large. And if you just want to print with PLA, that's fine.

    However if you want to get into ABS, PETG or anything else, you're looking at upgrades. Depending on your comfort level, there's a lot you can do. Many build their own enclosures, replace the print head with an E3Dv6, upgrade the extruder to a metal one, add filament run out sensors and auto bed leveling. Again, I emphasize, these are things that require you to be a tinkerer. There's a lot of work to be done in firmware, insulating the heated bed (or replacing), obtaining flatter glass and so on.

    While the cost is roughly $649 for a CR-10S, after you do all those upgrades, you have a fair sum invested. Yet, it is still less than something like a Raise3D N2 Plus, a completely assembled, tested and ready to go out-of-the-box for $3499.

    Ultimately it depends on the buyers comfort level. Like our beloved Ultimakers, you open, unbox, set up and are set to go print! The price equals convenience!

    I really wish Ultimaker made a large scale printer since things like the print head/hot end/ Olsson Block would really be a big benefit. Especially since the people in my type of hobby (movie props) use a lot of different filament types. The Ultimaker 2/3 print head just works with ease with so many different types.

    My 2 cents

    • Like 1

  12. Is the FFF format (and the settings!) documented somewhere?

    Yes, here it is....

    https://www.simplify3d.com/support/articles/working-with-file-types/

    That does not seem to actually document the file format. It does not even have a sample fff file. Note that I don't own a copy of S3D, so I can't make these files myself. Also I would need an overview of *all* the settings that can be included in an FFF file.

    Could this be something S3D and Cura are equally bad at? Documenting settings and file formats?

    Here's what an FFF file (in this case Chris' Creality CR-10 one) looks like...

    <?xml version="1.0"?>
    
    Creality CR-10(2)
    PLA
    Fast
    
    
    0
    0.4
    0
    0.4
    0.98
    1
    6.5
    0
    0
    5400
    0
    0.2
    1
    4
    
    0
    0.3
    3
    3
    2
    1
    3
    0
    0
    500
    0
    0
    120
    120
    0.5
    0
    0
    3
    3
    0.14
    85
    0
    1
    0
    1
    2
    5
    0
    999
    12
    7
    1
    0
    999
    2
    1
    1
    30
    1
    0
    Rectilinear
    Rectilinear
    0
    15
    100
    5
    1
    45,-45
    0
    0
    0
    25
    0
    0
    70
    1
    0.35
    1
    1
    0
    4
    50
    0
    
    0
    0
    0
    0
    1
    
    
    
    0
    1
    0
    0
    1
    
    
    
    
    
    
    1
    1
    15
    20
    0
    45
    100
    1
    100
    1
    0
    1
    0
    0
    1
    0
    0
    0
    0
    1
    0
    300
    300
    400
    0
    0
    0
    -1
    -1
    -1
    1
    -1
    1
    0,0|0,0|0,0|0,0|0,0|0,0
    1
    RepRap (Marlin/Repetier/Sprinter)
    r2
    115200
    1
    
    G28 ; home all axes,G1 Z5 F3000 ; lift,G1 X20 Y2 F1500 ; avoid binder clips,G1 Z0.2 F3000 ; get ready to prime,G92 E0 ; reset extrusion distance,G1 X120 E10 F600 ; prime nozzle,G1 X150 F5000 ; quick wipe
    
    
    
    M104 S0; turn off extruder,M140 S0 ; turn off bed,G1 X0 Y300 F1000 ; prepare for part removal,M84 ; disable motors,M106 S0 ; turn off fan,,M300 S294 P200 ;D4: 294,M300 S588 P200 ;D5: 588,M300 S440 P200 ;A4: 440,M300 S392 P200 ;G4: 392,M300 S784 P200 ;G5: 784,M300 S440 P200 ;A4: 440,M300 S740 P200 ;F#5: 740,M300 S440 P200 ;A4: 440
    gcode
    0
    Star Wars
    
    3600
    0.5
    0.8
    0.8
    7200
    1002
    50
    0
    1
    1
    1.75
    46
    1.25
    0
    80
    0
    80
    0
    20
    1
    0
    0
    1
    1
    3
    1
    1
    1
    3
    12
    -0.5
    600
    1
    10
    0
    
    210
    60
    0.98
    
    
    
    
    
    
    225
    80
    1
    
    
    
    
    
    195
    80
    1
    
    
    
    
    
    
    220
    80
    1
    
    
    
    
    
    0.3
    3
    3
    1
    0
    25
    
    
    0.2
    3
    3
    1
    0
    30
    
    
    0.1
    4
    4
    2
    30
    40
    
    
    0.2
    3
    3
    1
    15
    20
    
    
    
    0
    0
    0
    0
    1
    
    
    
    55
    0.97
    
    
    
    
    
    
    


  13. He's referring to the moiré pattern (aliasing). This could be fixed with (more aggressive) anti-aliasing, though that comes at a cost of lower performance on older GPUs. That would make it yet another thing to configure in preferences.

    Well I have an Intel HD4000 chipset on one home laptop and my work PC has an Intel HD Graphics 530. Both get the same effect (work PC 6 months old).

    I'll look in the preferences to see what's available to alter it.


  14. Can't remember having seen that request before. A proof of concept could be simple to implement, but I think getting it to work 100% will be impossible. I don't think there is a 1:1 relation between the S3D settings you can set in an FFF file and Cura settings. Setting-names can be translated, but concepts and approaches are much harder to tackle.

    Is the FFF format (and the settings!) documented somewhere?

    Yes, here it is....

    https://www.simplify3d.com/support/articles/working-with-file-types/

    I understand it wouldn't be a 100% match, based on how frequently Cura updates versus S3D. But it would be very convenient option. Perhaps telling the user what fields it could not match and left alone?

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