LePaul
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3D Prints
Posts posted by LePaul
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Well I am having this problem again specifically with the silver PLA
After a few prints with the blue PLA (2.8mm), I wanted to use the silver PLA again for a few prints (2.9mm) No sooner had I loaded it into the machine, the bowden tube popped off the print head (teflon tube). The blue piece was still attached up top, so that's not doing anything :(
I know Barnacules made a piece to deal with this...
...but I know Sander had some worries about diameter of the clamp and heat.
Any other ideas?
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So I have a co-worker who is a very dedicated STAR TREK fan
He has been after me to print an original series phaser
We found great CAD files on GrabCAD
http://grabcad.com/library/star-trek-phaser
Using Solid Works I converted the STEP file...
It looks very very cool!
I saved it as an STL and fired up Cura I had to move it around a lot to fit the platform but having never done anything like this, have no idea of this would print
Clearly a lot of the print would have issues printing....
So, guide me! How would one tackle something like this?
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No R2D2 sound? I can fix that...allow me to show off a little
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I agree, I have three cats, all resuced from shelters. They are getting old now (14, 13 and 9) but are great companions. They cautiously watch the Ultimaker do its work, sitting on the chair and quietly observing.
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That's why I am so, so curious to see what others are printing with the dual extruder option!
http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3072-dual-is-out-lets-see-it-in-action/
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I gave up on the filament coming off the spool gently a week ago. I'd hear the SPROINNNNNG and plastic crinkle of PLA popping off the spool and causing all sorts of neat knots. Now I have it on the floor under the table, so it gently pulls upward and gravity tends to reduce the tangling I was seeing.
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I'm curious why you used 230c ?
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I push it as far as it'll go...so I imagine its getting in there before I manually crank the extruder.
However it does take a bit to force thru the previous filament that was in there~ Sometimes, as the two mix, you get some neat colors (silver-ish blue is neat!)
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I didn't see much info on how to remove filament so I heat (Ulticontroller) to 190, open the extruder clamp ,pull the filment all the way out...then insert the new filament I wish to use. I press it all the way in then close the extruder. I gently rotate the extruder manually until I see the color of the new filament appear.
I hope I'm doing it right
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Asides kidnapping Daid's cat and holding it hostage, I think you have a few weeks to go :cool: :mrgreen:
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I know there's several of these out there....I'm waiting to install mine until I can see more prints too
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A week later, no squeaking and the Bowden tube hasn't flown off the print head...!
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Pete,
I've posted a great deal with my kit, build and subsequent frustrations along the way to getting quality prints.
As others have said all along, 3D printing (rapid prototyping) isn't turn key. While many will make it sound like you simply load the PLA/ABS material and just go print, I've found that isn't the case with any of them. When I bought my Ultimaker kit, my friend ordered a Solidoodle 3. His arrived, assembled and ready to go. He was up and printing before me but has had a number of issues and malfunctions along the way. The support he receives from them is essentially a short sentence and that's it. Here, I can go directly to the forums or post a support ticket.
I wish I had gone with the assembled kit, and had I known the Ultimaker 2 was waiting in the wings, would've bought that.
However in hindsight, building the printer has helped me understand it, learn how it functions and be less wary (i.e. scared) to get in there and adjust things. I'm an IT guy who deals with mainframes, servers, desktops, etc...but I was really leery of building a 3D printer out of wood, a stack of stepper motors, belts and pulleys. I've had all sorts of interesting issues along the way and managed to get thru them.
Since you are leaning to the Ultimaker 2, it would seem a lot of the hurdles you have read about will be reduced since it comes pre-assembled, heated bed and many enhancements from what us Ultimaker 1 owners have. Nancy has been posting a lot about her experience with the one she has had on loan for the past few days.
What sold me on the Ultimaker was the print quality and also the community support. I followed these posts for months and while I had concerns like you did, I was intrigued and impressed how many minds came together to resolve and improve the product.
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I have to ask how long the owl took to print!
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I have the upgrade kit and haven't had the heart to dismantle my machine yet to install it....I have been hoping to see what others are doing and printing!
I'd love to see what others think of the dual extruders and how their prints are looking
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I am curious about this too! It would be nice to just beam the data to the printer via wifi,
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Actually is was a great fix...I made the Bowden clamp part for the print head...but I haven't installed it since the clip and ip tie seems to have fixed the problem (for now!)
If you can print the part, its well worth it
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So Daid is promising we can print out edible cat treats soon??
Just kidding!
I'm pleased to see there is very active development on the bed, with heating and better leveling. I think I spent more time getting the proper bed height/leveling than any other aspect of the kit build.
Now that I am getting good print outs in PLA, I am very excited about printing in other materials, which the heated bed will be a requirement
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Here is a little something that I noticed about the first layer. Normally before a print starts the nozzle oozes quite a bit. I pull the strands away because when the head homes to 0 it would otherwise squash the already extruded filament and take the goo with it when it moves into printing position.
Illuminarti suggested to add the following to the start gcode section in Cura in order to extrude 6mm of filament before moving into position to print.
G1 F90 E6 ;extrude 6mm of feed stock
This has the advantage that it primes the nozzle and the already extruded filament beeing heavier, sticks to the bed at first and not to the nozzle.
This might help to get a nice and consistent first layer.
Ok I looked at the start.gcode and wondering where to add that entry? Here's what mine looks like
;Sliced at: {day} {date} {time}
;Basic settings: Layer height: {layer_height} Walls: {wall_thickness} Fill: {fill_density}
;Print time: {print_time}
;Filament used: {filament_amount}m {filament_weight}g
;Filament cost: {filament_cost}
G21 ;metric values
G90 ;absolute positioning
M107 ;start with the fan off
G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops
G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops
G1 Z15.0 F{travel_speed} ;move the platform down 15mm
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length
G1 F200 E3 ;extrude 3mm of feed stock
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again
G1 F{travel_speed}
M117 Printing...
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Something I have seen the Solidoodle guys do is print plastic casings that go around the bearings
I don't have a picture on hand but wonder if a plastic (injection molded, printed of other material) that firmly encases the bearings and Z nut would be a good idea?
I had to strugle to get my build platform just right, but had no trouble with the z-nut....so far.
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Try, you must
(I'm sorry, I couldn't resist)
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So that doesn't look too thick or overextruded (too hot?) ? I seem to do well at 220 and am willing to try lower if its worth trying!
Bowden tube pops off print head
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
I'm printing at 215 to 220 C on my prints.
Is the Bowden tube a specific tube itself? Could I replace this with something found at a hardware store?
I don't see any marks on the tube on the teflon end or where it is clamped into place with the blue piece.
Alternatively, can a clamp like that used to control the movement from the extruder be used on this end?