LePaul
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Posts posted by LePaul
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Your prints are looking pretty good.
I rarely use alcohol for adhesion. Most of the time it makes the print stick too much, like you have experienced. I would use alcohol when printing something larger that would tend to warp and pull off the tape. For most parts, starting with the nozzle primed and adjusting the Z height on the fly while printing the first layer gets them sticking well. If this is hard to do, you could specify a thicker bottom layer in Curas Advanced tab under Quality. I usually reuse the tape for multiple prints before replacing. A good thing about narrower tape is that when a strips gets damaged, you an replace smaller areas.
I usually print the tops and bottoms at 4x or more of the layer thickness to get a nice finish on the top. The larger the flat areas, the more important this will be.
220 is a very safe temperature to print at for most any PLA. There are trade-offs between temp/speed/quality. At 220, you should be able to easily print these parts at 100mm/s without much loss of quality. Personally, I go for lower speeds and temps for better quality and less warping. I usually print around 200-210 and generally below 75mm/s. Every roll of filament seems to print differently.
Mastory, we had a rough start but I wanted to thank you for this advice.
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That's an excellent idea, I haven't even looked at the gcode for the printer
I tweak the gcode in Mach 3 for the CNC mill I use when making aluminum parts for my R2-D2s. For some reason, the motor off doesn't translate over from vCarve Pro, so we have to add that in manually to each part we mill. Easy fix, just annoying if you forget ...
So on the second to last part (threaded screw), that doesn't look too heavy/over extruded at the begining?
Nice to hear I am honing in on getting this thing working well
The blue PLA is quite something, it shines so much, its hard to tell if its "wet" or not
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I didn't make any temperature changes during the print
That's an interesting concern. I may wait on making any changes, I did print and install the improved zip-tie/clip for the bowden tube on the extuder. Maybe I should see how that affects print before I change anything else.
I slowed the video in the middle to show how it was applying the first layer. To my [untrained] eye, it looked a little heavy on the extrustion....thoughts?
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Barnacules Nerdgasm posted a great video this week, a replacement to the Bowden tube feed connection. Here's the link on Thingiverse
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:11864
http://www.thingiverse.com/make:48823
I printed with the following settings...
Layer Height .2mm
Shell Thickness .8
Bottom/Top thickness .6
Fill Density 20
Speed 50
Temp 220
Filament diameter 2.80
Flow 100%
I think I have the bed height almost perfect, however on the right front, it may need to go down a very small amount (blue PLA on blue tape is hard to see, but note the ring around the part)
Here's the parts...I bet you guys will advise a bit lower temp...what do you think?
Things to note...the first layer is that desired SMOOSHED/FLATTENED of material so many of you have said to strive for!
The bottom layers seem darker...over extrusion (too hot?)
I have been wiping the surface of the painter's tape with rubbing alcohol and I am ripping up a lot of tape trying to remove the parts when completed. While not a huge problem, I am having to lightly sand away the tape I can't peel away.
Thanks for your suggestions in advance
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Watching some of that now...camera shakes with the printer
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Broken link, my friend
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Good questions, especially if it worked with the original Ultimaker
Did you already submit a support ticket? They are quite responsive to those too.
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PLA or ABS
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Be sure to wipe down the blue painters tape with rubbing alcohol. The tape has a waxy residue so nothing will stick to it otherwise
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This keeps happening to me, I've guided it back into, made sure it was back in as tight as it could go, removed the collar and put it back on (blue piece) but this keeps happening every print or two.
I was making the last two IKEA light holders I need to be done.
Then I can work on printing the parts I need to make to keep the Bowden tube coupler from making noise in the extruder drive.
Tips? Ideas?
Thank you!
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I went looking for the blueprint files that used to be here and couldn't find them on here
I recall downloading them and importing them into Solid Works, then exporting them into DXF format.
Since I can't source aluminum in mm thickness here, I didn't do much else
I tried uploading that to my Gallery but it won't let me. So I took a few screen shots in SW for you
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I am in Vermont, USA.
(Dutch name though...both parents from Nederland)
What did you mean by "You just gave me an idea of professional reconversion" ?
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Ah a fellow New Englander
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GR5 has been very helpful (and patient!)...do the picture thing!
My extruder works so good now, it was causing the coupler fitting to squeak....and all that motion popped it off the print head! So once you get it sorted out, there's no mistaking its working.
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That's a very smooth surface on that part too. Very interesting
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I chose to ignore nothing...there were no "hints" or "clues"
An assembled dual extruder wasn't available and you kept assuring me the kit version wasn't terribly hard to do.
So, I made the purchase.
That being said, apparently customer service is different for different people and areas of the world. I'd never do that to someone. I'd be forthcoming. "We have a new printer out in 2 weeks that will be a significant upgrade to this"
Its a frustrating experience. And I'm tired of feeling duped.
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Thank you, Nic
That's precisely the problem.
I asked. Two weeks later, brand new printer released.
Many of you are taking Ultimaker's "side" that, hey, new stuff comes out all the time, that happens, too bad, so sad.
And if months had gone by, I would agree.
But when the sales team admits they weren't forthcoming because they were told not to?
I've shared my experience with several colleagues in IT and they are amazed that a company would do that. We're also amazed at the responses here that say "Oh bother, just sell yours and buy a new one"
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I got a reply to my email today asking about why I was told certain things that have proven to be obviously false.
I'm trying very hard to avoid saying I was lied to.
But I did ask if this was the latest and greatest version, as well as inquiring about the option of an assembled version with the dual extruders. (I was told that was not an option and continually reminded how easy the kit is to assemble.)
So, feeling I had the best product and best information available, I paid for mine on August 26.
One paragraph from the official email I got today is pretty upsetting...
I understand what you mean, but at the time you ordered we weren't allowed to communicate anything about the new Ultimaker 2, as we wanted it to make a surprising release.
Beyond that, I was told I have a wonderful product, updates will continue to be released...and since I bought a kit, they won't take it back. (Which I hadn't asked to do)
In my reply, I asked the gentleman two questions: Is an Ultimaker 2 available for a deep discount for situations like mine? And, quite honestly, I asked him how HE would feel if HE were the CUSTOMER in this situation.
I understand the defenders of the Ultimaker original. Its a good product and from the reading I have done here, you have had your printers for months or even years. You've learned a lot and share that knowledge with the rest of us
But for customers like myself, having a product that appears better in many ways suddenly released....while we were told no such new product existed.... its upsetting.
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Yikes! Scary stuff....appreciate the heads up
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Well tonight I went to print that part and had a little catastrophe of sorts.
The Bowden tube popped out from the print head during the print. When I came to check on the print, I had a quite a sight!
I can't seem to get it aligned into the hole quite right while everything is mounted, so I may have to remove the print head assembly from the axes. Which makes me wonder if I may as well install the second print head since I have the kit. I may not use it right off, but while apart....why not?
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How are their ads misleading?
I'm just pointing out that in the world of 3D printing and misconceptions, the idea a vase will quickly appear isn't accurate.
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And Educational licenses are about $50/year, for those that qualify....
I do!
If you are a military veteran, you can also get SolidWorks Student version for $20 (I did)
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I thought about doing that...then realized how challenging applying the tape is going to be with those in. Hinge from the outside, maybe?
Analyze my print...Bowden Clamp
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
Seriously?
Its 40 seconds in.