Jump to content

LePaul

Ambassador
  • Posts

    2,072
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    17

Posts posted by LePaul

  1. Well, I'll have to either keep monitoring the forum or send Sander an email. I'd like to know what my options are to upgrade, since I bought mine 24 days ago. I asked a lot of questions about having the latest version, anything up and coming...and it was indicated the Ultimaker was the latest and greatest. Clearly an Ultimaker 2 was in the works and had they hinted a new version was going to come out if I waited 30 days, I would've. Sigh.

     

  2. You could write a small manual with those topics you mentioned!

    So far getting the part off the tape has been the trickiest for me. The scaper I bought does the job a bit too good...it'll take the tape too. Using the canned air/CO2 duster to chill the part helps a lot.

    I made another owl and when trying to remove some tape residue from the bottom, peeled off the bottom layer. Opps!

    What would you gents suggest for test prints for a newbie to move up from? Someone mentioned pyramids and some other things before moving into big stuff.

    I also meant to ask...how do you remove the PLA to change out to a different spool? Just tug it out? I thought I would check if there was a best practices/best process for doing so.

    Thanks for all your help. I'm enjoying the small steps/progress I'm making. I'm really curious about using ABS for some stuff in the future, but with that needing a heated bed and so on, I'll keep learning with PLA for now

     

  3. You're correct about the small nub of material in the nozzle!

    I heeded your advice and heated the nozzle up and then moved it around the edges, using a piece of paper as the guide for height.

    I had done the cold nozzle, aligned height to paper then a 1/8th turn after. That print didn't work...it was too low, the first pass was no material and an indentation in the tape. The second pass, I got a blob of material since the first pass was too low.

    I

     

  4. Don't use the UC to move the head. Just push it around with your hand. On the UC under "prepare" you can do "home all axes" and then conveniently above that is "disable servos" which then allows you to push the head around. Extruder also.

     

    Ah, disable servos...that's a great tip

    I've been searching for some other fun things to try printing. The owl came out fantastic (scaled down to 2 inches tall) I wanted to try some of the statue ones I have seen posted on the Ultimaker site but haven't found the STL of them

    Thanks again for all of your assistance.

     

  5. Yes.

    Actually I took the advice someone mentioned and adjusted while the nozzle was hot. I used the Ulticontroller to move the X and Y axis around each corner and adjust each bed screw a bit...I stuck with the 'paper fit thru' as a guide for this print...it came out pretty good. Feedback welcome...I think I'll stop messing with it and finally move on to some larger prints (the Eiffel Tower one I see on Thingiverse is calling me)

     

     

  6. As you can see from my posts, I got as close as I could from loosening and tightening the limit switch up top (top z) and been trying to fine tune using the acrylic bed set screws.

    From there, I've used the guide of a piece of paper, when it no longer is able to slide under the nozzle, its too close

    Then as someone mentioned, bring the bed UP a tiny bit by doing a 1/8th turn on the bed screw, which should make up for the thickness of the paper.

    As I am learning, there may be a few other tweaks to make...temperature and speed, etc.

     

  7. I think he mentioned the widest available is 2.8 inches, which I just bought a few minutes ago at my local Lowes hardware store. I have the 2 inch wide stuff from Scotch and I went with the "its blue but not Scotch" painter's tape to try it out.

    I also bought an angled scraper for those hard to remove prints...and a C02 (computer cleaning 'can of air' stuff).

    Barnacules Nerdgasm actually mentioned this in his many Ultimaker videos...

     

     

  8. I had a similar problem with the Front limit switch

    You had no luck with upgrading the Marlin software in the wizard?

    The only reason I ask is that when I did, then powered the machine off and tried again the next day...the sensors all worked doing the exact same things I had done before. Not sure what or why it behaved how it did, just glad it seemed to cure itself (Cure? Cura? Ha ha?) :)

     

  9. I commend your ASCII, that's an excellent guideline!

    I did three test prints tonight.

    The first was the Ultimaker Robot and that came out really well.

    I then thought I would try a smaller scale version of the gothic chapel but it seemed like I was dragging stringers all over the place.

    I cleaned the surface...replaced with new (wider) painter's tape and printer this gear out, which has a tic-tac-toe pattern in the middle of it. I printing it using the Fine setting and .2 layer height. Overall it looks really good but, as you can see in the picture below, there's probably a little room for improvement. (Temp was 220c)

    gallery_536_202_105963.jpg

     

  10. Well that's what is odd. In the Cura software wizard, you are instructed to manually touch them. I touched the one in question and it never moved on to the next one.

    No hardware changes were made Just slide the limit switch over to make contact with the print head, to resolve the hammering when printing.

    When I tried it again the next day as GR5 suggested, it went right thru all of them, step by step

    Weird! But...happy its working!

     

×
×
  • Create New...