LePaul

Well how crazy is that. By default it isn't set to auto slice. Kind of nice, I suppose...! I hit the Slice Button and now I have it. I'm so used to years of upgrading and having that as a default all along, it's weird on a fresh install, that isn't set to go. Thanks!

I just received a new Lenovo P72 and installed Cura. Quite disappointed how slow Cura runs on a Intel i7 8850 6 core processor with an nVidia Quadro P600 Slow! But my bigger issue, about to do a print and when I go to my layer view to analyze my print...I so no way to slide up and down as I used to, to view the layers

George's video is great. I went with the diluted wood glue/dried up on the bed for many months and it worked great. I've gone to AquaNet extra hold hairspray now...it just works so well! Be sure your glass is super clean...Windex, rubbing alcohol...but your first layer looks like the nozzles needs to come down a bit more. Bed temp 60C works perfect too

I'm going to leave this thread alone and Agree to Disagree with you, on this topic.

You, like it or not, are one of many public faces of Ultimaker and whether you consider yourself Customer Support or not, you represent the company. Thus, when you make "snarky" responses, it reflects on your team and company. When you ask the community for feedback on beta versions and respond in this way, then defend it...it's disappointing.

Well I don't think the average end user needs to know all about the intern stuff or what's involved in fixing it. I was just pointing out that it's not working and would prefer you treat a customer as one. I bought a printer and countless filaments, upgrade components and so on. Your response, intentional or not, comes off as rude. (I think you guys are really loosing touch with your customers. There used to be some respect and simple acknowledgement of an issue. Now you offer a bunch of internal excuses why something won't be resolved.) I guess I'd prefer you just acknowledge the issue and tell us a fix is coming in a future release.

So we're awaiting an intern to fix this rather obvious issue? Gotcha.

Correct. I moved them manually and they successfully printed overnight

I went into "Open File", selected two small STLs (bottom and top of a Raspberry Pi case) expecting both to appear on the buildplate One was not on the build plate Right click and Arrange All Models and it still won't place them on the bed I tried again, making sure (Ctrl A) all models selected and "Arrange All Models" Same problem and error I wound up manually placing them on the bed, but wanted you to be aware of the behavior.

Downloading... fingers crossed!

I'll share what they reply with. I worry about layer adhesion printing too cool...but maybe it should go lower, below their suggested printing range.

Ha ha.... no problem. I've become a convert to the PVA Aqua-Net Extra Hold hair spray method. Every few weeks I take the glass out, treat it to a very soapy hot water bath and scrubbing...then back. I also enjoy the purchasing of the hairspray...as I am bald, the cashier's facial expression at my purchase is always enjoyable. I inquired with Matterhackers for some tips...

Thanks for this....I am taking a look at it in Cura and see you are doing your initial layer at 240, then 235. I also noticed your bed temp is a lot cooler, at 60C, than what I use (80C) 8 mm retraction with the default 25 mm speed. Given you are using a UM3, I wonder if those values mesh with the UM2+ ? This is fun to view, since I loose all the temperature values when I use the CPE Profile with the gcode set to Ultimaker 2. That's all handled via the Materials.txt / LCD Menu - profile setting on the machine.

I've seen reviews for Stratasys and other high end printers ?

Thank you...and if you could, post some of the essentials (temps, retraction, etc) in here...so if anyone searches for solutions in the future, the search engine will lead them here ?

Your PETG certainly prints a lot cooler than mine. What retraction distance and speed did you say gave good results?

I'm printing on the glass heat bed with a coating of extra hold hairspray. Prints come off easily once cooled

I'm a newcomer to PETG as well. I've used ColorFabb nGen and ColorFabb HT. The suggested settings do not work well and overall, I've found ColorFabb to cost twice as much as anything else...and twice the frustration. Back to PETG,, I've been doing some prints with it on my CR-10S (Zyltech brand) and getting some mixed results. Some good, some .... need tweaking. I am not confident the stock hot end is the greatest (China!)...I'd like to replace it with a Swiss Micro all metal hot end and know that I'm not having issues there. On the Ultimaker 2+, I've just tried a few test prints. They came out really good....but really hairy/stringy. PLA prints like a champ on my UM2+. The Cura default profile is usually quite good, unless you need supports...then that's where Cura is usually a disappointment. My S3D profile for the UM2+ works much better for those needs. I just haven't got the profile refined enough to give me the almost-no-z-seam Cura does.

Thanks! I appreciate the assistance

See my post here:

I appreciate any advice people can offer ? I print at 35 mm/s Their advice page is somewhat useful, they do mention the blobs you encountered https://www.matterhackers.com/news/how-to-succeed-when-printing-with-petg-filament

Yeah I've seen those and they are very limited. I was expecting something from Tom's 3D or the 3D Printing Nerd. Or how about that remarkable guy at Where Nerdy is Cool? (Couldn't resist...the latter is me ? )

Is this your first time using PETG? Stringing can be notoriously challenging to fine tune! I'm going through that now with both my UM2+ and CR-10S.

This thread has been fascinating to follow. I also can't find a single review on the Ultimaker S5 on YouTube ?

Is anyone else using Matterhacker Pro Series PETG? I am still trying to dial it in. I started with the CPE Profile included on the Ultimaker 2+ (LCD Menu, Material setting). I am also using the CPE profile in Cura 3.5.1 Like most PETG materials, I am trying to battle stringing. I have lowered the temperature to as low as 235 (started at 245), increased the Retraction Speed to 45 mm/sec and also increased the Retraction Distance all the way up to 11 mm/sec Apparently I have a ways to go!