peggyb

There are a lot of tutorials for Mesmixer, also on increasing poly count and so, it is a very useful program.. I think this is the way to go:

that is because PVA does not stick to PLA very well, so when your model is more complicated upwards the PVA keeps on building onto itself. In this example this is not the case and you could set the 'support horizontal extension' to a lower value. To find all the settings, for example support, use the search field and type support.

in the preferences is the option: center camera when object is selected, not exactly what you mean, but comes close...

the pause is visible in Cura when you load the gcode back in (it is not visible when the stl is loaded) at 1. you mean printing over usb? instead of 2. printing by sd card?

the oil will burn when extruding, use just a very thin film on your filament. A bit on a (paper)towel or finger and and softly rub the filament before it enters the extruder.

is 0.15 the recommended layer height for this model? Printing finer layers will give better results on curved top layers, but is that good for the hairy part? The green showing is not terrible, it is not a hole. The red color is the most outside wall and green is the next one, they are both walls. You could try the 'adaptive layers' under the experimental tab, in the layer view set the color scheme to Layer thickness instead of Line Type. This looks at the curvature of the model and will print thinner layers at the places you selected (horizontal areas), an uses thicker layers on vertical parts. This result in a few extra hours in this case and might not be good for the hair.

a bit of light oil on your filament helps to get it trough the Bowden as ninjaflex it quit 'sticky', not too much. and check your infill speed settings, they are usually faster than the wall settings, make them the same, like you said the walls are ok. and, if possible, no retraction.

just tried it and it works...

(sorry in English) you can find it in Cura: Shell (Wände?) - Horizontal expansion

why do you have the 'Origin at center' checked? this is usually ment for delta printers with a round bed.

you could also use some strong tape like duct tape over the brim when it is done printing in the places where it is prone to warping. Don't push to hard while taping because the bed will move down a little. It can help sometimes (not always unfortunately) to prevent the first lifting, as long as the brim stays in contact with the glass, it works. When it starts to lift it can pull it further and cannot be stopped .

@geert_2 slow speed is important with plastics of coarse. I use them for the metal filled filaments, like bronze, copper, and they are great to get into the deeper areas where it is impossible to get in with fingers and sandpaper. Don't expect wonders from a rotating tool on a flat surface, you're only touching a small piece of the surface making it hard to get it flat and straight. I prefer the yellow (80-most course) bigger in one piece, the other option is smaller with a reusable shaft. In the photo I tried to demonstrate the effect on PLA ,hope you can see the difference, on a very bad print from very old filament. Left side original, right side a few minutes with the yellow tool. Using a hanging motor, flexible shaft and foot paddle for speed, so I can control the speed while working.

These are the ones I showed you last month, the brand is Habras, and used for dental stuff. The red blue and yellow are the 'coarse' ones, the mint and salmon for polishing. They are nylon infused with something and very durable, although I had a mint colored one lying around for a long time and the hairs became brittle and fell apart.. Best is to use a motor with adjustable speed, to slow it down, and even then, be careful.

no, don't worry, this is the area the printhead including the fan above. Important when you want to print 'one at time' to avoid collision with other objects.

uncheck: preferences-general-privacy-check for updates on start

in de voorkeuren kun je dit uitschakelen: preferences-general-privacy-check for updates on start

dan is het internet toch je beste vriend... bijvoorbeeld: https://makezine.com/2010/06/28/make-your-own-gears/ http://www.instructables.com/id/A-Practical-Guide-to-FDM-3D-Printing-Gears/

don't know if you decided on something yet... other option is a clear uv resin and some coloring. Nice thing is that it stays liquid until it is exposed by uv light. There are some uv light around used for fingernails.

Cura can make different infill patterns

first thing you can check in x-ray view if there are red areas in the model (not like in the view you posted, these ore overhang areas) if you see red parts then your model is bad and needs fixing before or during export.

the speed woud be too high for the green as well, considering you are pushing it through a 0.25 nozzle. The material needs time to heat up for extrusion. Maybe make a smaller test piece first, like a little cube with text to test the best speed/temp settings.

the extra info that is not mentioned anywhere and took me a while as well is that the result can be viewed after generating and saving the gcode. Load the code into Cura and view the result. If it is not in the right place, generate and view again.

in the preferences there is the option 'ensure models are kept apart'. See if this enabled.

I bought a couple of these https://www.makerpoint.nl/nl/ultimaker-hot-end-isolator-coupler-umo.html or like these https://www.trideus.be/nl/hot-end-isolator-coupler-1055.html always good to have spare as they can go bad.. but I guess your reseller close to you must has a similar option

https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/51943-installation-ultimaker-cura the requirements are 64 bit.....