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sonarok

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Everything posted by sonarok

  1. das mit dem termistor war schon absicht so, ich wollte eben bewusst nicht genau in der mitte messen weil dadurch die ränder evtl. kühler wären an denen eben das warping entsteht, sprich ich will die temperatur die ich einstelle ziemlich genau 5-10cm von der mitte weg messen das funktioniert auch prima so... denke aber sowieso dass es kaum temperatur unterschiede gibt da die platte wie gesagt aus recht dickem alu ist und dadurch eine sehr gleichmäßige wärmeverteilung garantiert ist... hab ja schon oben geschrieben dass ich heute eher eine in 5-6mm suchen würde... das hat aber weniger den grund bei der aufheiztzeit (ich heize auf 46C° für mein PLA und das dauert vielleicht 3min, solange slice ich oft) sonder mehr den geringen rest abstand zur halterung... bei einer 8mm platte bleiben vielleicht 1-2mm zum ausrichten über die sprungfedern und schrauben... das ist eher das problem. ansonsten läuft das bett seit ca. 2-3 monaten problemlos und ich kann es jedem nur empfehlen sich auch eins zu bauen wenn man vom warping genervt ist
  2. just posted a pic based tutorial on my fb gallery : https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.126353090893272.1073741831.100005557446240&type=1&uploaded=18 because someone in the german forum was also looking for more details... maybe this helps to get you started, there is also a link in one of the commets to a more text based tutorial
  3. a bit more work but totally worth from my point of view... this nearly removed all fan noise: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:28498
  4. so ich hab gerade mal ganz schnell alles hochgeschoben, das ist alles noch etwas roh und ich denke ich werde das ganze nochmal überarbeiten aber fürs erste hilft es denk ich: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.126353090893272.1073741831.100005557446240&type=1&uploaded=18
  5. hi nochmal, hab mich ganz bewusst für ein 2. netzteil entschieden: zum einen war es mir einfach unheimlich noch einmal gut 120 watt leistung über die platine zu jagen (im sommer wirds da unten schon warm genug wenn die luft 30° hat) zum anderen hatte ich aus einem älternen PC noch ein ATX netzteil... im endeffekt war es glaub ich auch eine gute entscheidung denn die ATX stecker werden spürbar warm wenn das bett von 20 auf 45C° hoch heizt. ich bin gerade noch dabei für meinen shop ein neues item einzustellen und mach mich dann an die aufarbeitung der anleitung @trion, das heizbett sieht auf jedenfall interessant aus, leider etwas spät für mich das zu testen... ich hab auf ein 8mm alubett gesetzt das plan gefräst ist und bis auf die stärke die ich heute eher zwischen 5-6mm suchen würde bin ich eigentlich sehr zufrieden
  6. ich bin mir nicht sicher ob du die firmware anpassen musst aber das ist dank daid sehr einfach geworden: http://daid.eu/~daid/marlin_build/ hier kannst du die max. höhe des tisches abändern (Z achse 200mm, müsstest den wert also so weit erhöhen wie es geht) ansonsten wenn software endstops nicht aktiviert sind und der hardware endstop nicht ausgelöst wird sollte das schon gehen... aber ausprobiert hab ich sowas nie...
  7. hey, hab das mal überflogen und mir kamen die probleme und lösungsversuche sehr bekannt vor... ich hab lange mit mir gerungen aber dann doch ein neues bett mit heizplatte gebaut... der unterschied ist einfach extrem... ich hab noch nie so flache teile drucken können... selbst wenn sich die teile auf dem blauen band nicht ablösen und man ca. 15cm+ in der länge erreicht biegen die sich nachträglich oft wie eine banane ein... hier ist ein beispiel für 0 warping: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/467-post-your-latest-print/page-22 ich hab den ganzen bau mit fotos dokumentiert und werde die nächsten tag (vermutlich spätestens am wochenende) eine anleitung in bildern posten... alle teile konnte ich problemlos hier in DE bestellen, die einkaufsliste würde ich bei legen... kosten lagen glaub ich ca. bei 80 euro bin mir nicht mehr sicher
  8. first of all an older print: And a new print of my mario questionsmark planter: compared to a hair: all parts totally flat! a heated bed seems to be a must have to achive such results some more images can be found on my fb gallery: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.125368760991705.1073741829.100005557446240&type=1
  9. meine vermutung ist sogar das das ultimaker PLA aus deutschland kommt... ich bin etwas stutzig geworden als ich auf meinen rollen deutsche beschriftungen wie "white / weiß" und soft / weich lesen konnte... wenn ihr mal die bilder der 0.75kg rollen von ultimaker und grrf vergeilt fällt auf das diese absolut gleich aussehen... sogar der kleine weiße aufkleber auf den rolen auf denen PLA zu lesen ist scheint identisch... ich würde fast vermuten das die ultimaker jungs dort in großen mengen einkaufen und resellen... das würde auch eine schwankung der qualität erklären, den erst wird eine große menge bestellt und dann ab lager verkauft... das heißt je länger das zeug rumliegt umso schlechter wird es... daher scheint mir rein von der theorie her der einkauf bei grrf sinniger da ich vermuten würde das PLA ist frischer und eben auch günstiger...
  10. ok i got some time this weekend and i can confirm that this version works also with retraction and really nice printing results! It seems like all issues that appear for the new version have something todo with the update itself and / or old settings. My way to get it working: - start netfabb as admin (using win7 64bit) to make sure it can write and change every setting you change - reset all settings - close netfabb to let it save all changes - start it again as admin - follow pauls howto on volumetric printing setup (viewtopic.php?f=9&t=1009) - close it again - start again as admin - reset all settings again - close it - start it - review your volumetric print settings and reconfig them if needed like in the howto from paul i know that this looks really strange and i'm also not sure if all this start / close / reset steps are needed for everyone but since i did those steps everything runs great again. I'm also a software developer (more in the direction of web / server) and i know how hard it can be to get software perfect running on a lot of devices with different specs... we should not blame the netfabb guys to much because from my point of view the software is working and since retraction is working i'm getting the best printing results ever even better then with cura (no gaps on big surface, extrem nice walls and top layers, etc.). Anyhow... because it seems like all issues have their source in update / old settings here is a list of suggestions from my side to improve / avoid such issues in the feature: 1. mark the "default" / "none volumentric" maschine selection as depricated, old or whatever to let the user know they should not use it anymore 2. improve the export / import of settings by making it possible to export / import settings for the different sections - this would help a lot if you could just import your material settings and / or print style settings etc. 3. QA the reset function! - to me it seems like this one is not working correctly because some of the selection and settings remain and exactly this seems to lead to a lot of different issues... those 3 points could make updates for the future a lot easier because you would just export want you want to keep, update, reset everything, import the old settings again => done!
  11. Hi again, first of all, happy xmas to all @ alexander, its a nice idea to deliver something new for the holidays and i also thought thats great because i have a lot of time now to try out the new version with retraction etc. but if you see my 1. post, i'm also not able to print anymore even with a reset, the printer starts to move to the right position printing for some seconds and then stops as soon as the filment is pulled back, i can see the xx % done number raising in netfabb but the printer isnt moving or extruding anymore... would be great to get some more informations / help, or a updated documentation to understand the new settings better... i ask myself if the reset really resets everything? not only style / material settings? does it reset the custom gcode header / footer too? maybe there is something wrong for the new version? maybe i will give it another try and also switching between "Ultimaker" and "Ultimaker (volumentric)" for the maschin typ...
  12. Hi everyone, i was looking forward to this update because retraction was promised to be fixed and that is / was the biggest gap on printing with netfabb. currently i always need to decide if i need a print with no stringing (then i use cura) or i dont care about stringing but need very nice surfaces or thin walls like for "writing" texts on models etc. (cura doesnt close thin walls correctly for example i have a 1 mm wall that result in 2 shells each 0,4mm and a gap of 0,2mm between them) So my hope was big to be able to switch back to netfabb for everything but after updateing and some tests my disappointment is big :( at the moment i'm not able to print anything... my ultimaker heats up, start moving to the right position, printing some seconds, then pulling back the filment veryfast and then.. nothing... first i thought its maybe because of my custom material and printstyle settings so i made a backup and reseted everything... but without success... anyone else is facing similar issues? i only saw some other issues on the retraction thread here... i'm running the lastest marlin firmware from cura and also check for the right bautrate (250k), i'm also wondering why there is no documentation about this version / changes
  13. hi again, my first version is ready now and i'm already using it. Did a complete redesign to guide the also to the 12V convertes, will test now how good this one is working, till now 2h prints worked fine without any issues => http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:28498
  14. hi daid, thanks for your fast reply! ok that sounds good for the controllers. i completly forgot about the 12V convertes... they are also a bit behind the controllers, i will need to check if the airflow still reach them... otherwise i will change my cover design into 2x50mm fans that will provide 2x 16m^3/h instead of only 2x 7m^3 this will be a bit louder the the 40mm solution but will provide the same amount of air like the original fan but without the heavy noise... maybe it helps to get some heatspreats on the 12V converters with the current 40mm soltuion, will come back as soon as i have tested everything and also upload my solution to thingiverse! thanks alot
  15. yap same issue here... also using 4.9.2 on windows, have always to low numbers here... prints with around 16gr are displayed with < 1gr
  16. hi everyone, my ultimaker is now working multiple hours each day since around 2-3 month and i'm very happy with it after alot improvemnts on the head, extruder, fan parts, etc. (currently i can print during the whole night without any issues and perfect results) the last thing that i want to improve is the cooling on the bottom for the stepper motor controllers. Currently there is a extrem noisy fan. I already have a fitting design for 2x 40x40mm silence fans that can be mounted easly on the wooden cover that is mounted on the electronic board. Now i'm asking myself if 2x 7m^3/h airflow is enough to cool the small heatspreats on the board. the only thing i can say so far is that the new fandesign blows with around 50% of the air that the orginal fan provides. I'm a bit afraid of just changing this part and waiting if something fails or everything still works fine because this could maybe damage the controllers if they overheat? would be great if someone could provide me some more information how much cooling is really needed to save the controllers from any damage
  17. hi daid! what can i say... think images tell more then words thousend thanks! this small line and some z-level tuning warped my UM to perfect quality!
  18. Hi everyone, finished ultimaker yesterday around 2:00 and and also started with my first print. Everything looked good ( first run without pla to check movement etc. ) After i inserted the PLA string the issues started, first there was no PLA extruded so i thought i need to tight up something on the feeder site, then i noticed that the bold is eating the PLA string and get stucked, was searching alot on the net, found also this thread : http://groups.google.com/group/ultimake ... 5bae50b9ec but it seems like i have some other issues. (also tried to push the temp to 225C° with no success) then i removed the presure on the feeder and tried to print a model by pushing the PLA by hand: http://www.pic-upload.de/gal-125409/vx5nyo/1.html think it looks quite good for a "hand feeded" print what i noticed by this try was that i need only a very small amount of PLA so maybe only some mm / 1-2 cm of the string. But my extruder motor is spinning like it needs to push 100 times more. Thats seems also the reason why it eats the string. (push alot more then can be extruded and eat up the string this way) so now i'm wondering what could be the issue that the extruder motor is spining so much / fast. Firmware: Marlin RC1 Software: netfaab (newest verion from 23/04/2012) thanks in advanced for any help!
  19. hi again, thanks for the really fast reply and test print! And also good point at the horizontal elements, makes sense that you always need an angle because the printer cant put the PLA on nothing (printing in the air ). I will fix up these points and hopefully my printer arrives the next days.
  20. Hi everyone, i'm still waiting for my ultimaker but already started to learn a bit about cad tools and currently trying sketchup... i already have created my first model (a pen cap) that was exported as .stl and repaired via netfabb, i already uploaded it to thingivers ( http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:21386 ). would be really great to have someone that could review this model or maybe testprint it and give me some feedback about it (mistakes? how to improve it to get better print results, imposible layout, etc.) what i can see so far is that something with the position seems to be wrong because it looks like the cap is flying on the thingivers screenshot. thanks in advanced!
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