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graeme_robinson

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  1. problem was never solved I'm afraid. I just learned to live with it.
  2. I should also add that I've tried removing the controller and printing via USB connection to my computer with CURA - the same problem during heating cycles occurs.
  3. I have an upgraded Ultimaker original - it has the addon controller with SDcard reader. Though it can still print the UM 'crashes' when heating prior to printing - the controller screen blanks to a low flickering blue. This problem only occurs when heating up prior to beginning a print. I need to power it off and begin pre-heating PLA again until I get it up to temperature. Sometimes it will take 4-6 power on/power off/power on cycles to get the head up to print temp. Once the device is up to temp it can maintain it and print without stopping. Even long jobs
  4. Hi, My Ultimaker Original with Controller upgrade has been working well for several years. Recently however the controller crashes almost immediately on boot or in the middle of a print job (from SDCARD). I've established that its the controller that's at fault as I removed it (unplugged from mobo) and am printing without issue via USB with Cura. Note that the Controller has been working successfully for a few years but it's only begun to crash recently. I've tried re-seating the cable connections. I haven't yet dismantled it to see if there's anything obvious
  5. Thanks - good to keep in mind if I forget to compile gcode with a brim. I'm very pleased to report my first print with Brim has nailed this problem and I'll be printing a brim on future prints to ensure there's a good even flow before the real job begins - problem solved.
  6. cool, I was about to come back and answer my own question. Printing with Brim on the current job and its doing the trick - thanks Owen.
  7. Hey, that subject rhymes - badly... At the moment my method for beginning a print having warmed the UM up from cold is as follows (I'm using an ulticontroller): 1. use Prepare/Preheat PLA 2. do something else till pre-heat is done 3. load print gcode from card selection menu 4. begin print and observe as PLA begins to flow normally. 5. stop print and select auto-home 6. wipe aware the small amount of badly printed PLA from the print bed. 7. select the print gcode again and restart print. From here on I can usually walk away while the printer completes its job. On the whole this meth
  8. Thought I would share a problem I encountered and solved. Photos here: http://tinyurl.com/ks2zljk Last week I got too ambitious with the Tune/Flow control on my new Ulticontroller and forced the bowden tube retention end loose at the stepper motor. I was able to print a fix for this issue (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:40544) which seemed to work really well. However fitting the fix required me to remove the bowden tube from the print head end (perhaps not 'required' but I found it easiest to do so), and I clearly replaced it incompletely, with the tube not fully inserted in the insula
  9. OK, for someone with the same problem, here's how I got working with RepG 035 on Marlin release candidate 2. 1. run RepG 026 or earlier. Upgrade firmware selecting board Ultimaker - Arduino Mega Sheild v1.5x (Mega 2560 only) and then selecting firmware Build 1 (OLD 5D release). 2. Now successively upgrade firmware to Marlin rel. cand. 1 first then to 2. 3. run RepG 034 and the firmware and RegG will co-operate. I did try Cura and it did update firmware to Marlin, but the version loaded would not allow Cura to communicate with the printer without I/O errors *and* it was also failing wit
  10. I have been unable to get Marlin firmware of any colour to upload successfully to my brand new Ultimaker. I have read in the software setup guide you need to upgrade Ultimaker firmware via something earlier than RepG 034 first and have followed this path but I can't get any firmware to be recognised on RepG later than version 025 and the only firmware 025 will handle is Build 1 (Old 5D release) and I have tried this on Linux, Mac and Windows 7. Can someone point me in the right direction? Maybe I have to compile rather than just select pre-compiled firmware from the upload firmware function
  11. Thanks for that. I pulled the Z stage out of the cage and tightened it all up again - this time it went in no problem. I just moved the Z stage to the top when fitting the posts into their bottom holes and it was snug but perfect.
  12. When I initially installed the Z stage the 12mm steel posts/axes would not both go through the the linear bearings in the tray and the holes at the bottom of the printer floor. There was a 5mm difference between the distance between the axes holes in the printer and the distance between the linear bearings in the tray. I loosened the bolts holding the tray together in order to be able to seat the axes into their holes however now the Z stage has separated at the rear and is in danger of coming apart completely. See attached photos. Have I just made an error on how tight these tolerances ar
  13. Hi everyone, I've just ordered my Ultimaker over a week ago and eagerly await its arrival. So much to learn in the meantime however. Look forward to accessing peoples experience on this user forum in the months to come. Thanks in advance!
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