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Everything posted by tachyio

  1. Hi Folks! I suddenly have the rare-exception of proposing my own university final year project in material science! And yes, its going to be about 3D Printing... So I was wondering what to do my research on...when it occurred to me that my Ultimachine Filament was vastly superior to the stuff I got from Ultimaker (no offence, but my experience was better), and relatedly, Ultimaker Filament is vastly superior to the stuff a friend of mine gets from China... So that got me thinking, that in addition to quantifying extruder performance, its also really important to quantify filament properties
  2. Wow! I haven't been back here in ages, got frustrated with my Ultimaker for a month, until I figured out these exact same problems: Getting plugs and frequent jamming, due to the Bowden slipping upwards, and having the melt-zone too close to the PEEK-Bowden Interface. I fixed it by using a new white clip I got from Ultimaker, hope it will hold for a while at least! And retraction has improved in Cura 12.07, using it on my Mac which is a plus. So I'm back in happy printing land. But yeah it's only a matter of time before the plug of doom or "kidney stone" as I call it, returns. I'm all for
  3. Thanks Daid Running this on my Mac, for a Printrbot i made using my Ultimaker! Works well!
  4. Yes I do get this, which ones are the "set screws"? After moving into my friend's office, the machine is experiencing daily "thermal cycling" from 14C during the day to 29C at night, which I believe is causing it's belts to loosen and the frame to distort very slightly - which is affecting the quality of prints.
  5. Omg the light! Haha! That looks amazingly bright!
  6. I will try to correct this by printing at 220C, slightly faster at 35mm/sec, and reduce the infill overlap in expert settings to 27% from 32%...not sure if it will work though. My belts appear tight, and I have weights at the bottom to provide damping.
  7. Photos of the part, not sure why exactly, but I have uneven skin and blobbing, back like the ole days.
  8. Cura RC4 settings: Just printing a reprap part, its okay, but outer surface isn't too smooth; I have uneven layers and some blobs. Also top-surfaces aren't filled-in, so you can see into the part from the top.
  9. Dwindle should be off by default... and the defaults match RC2. There shouldn't be any real difference between an RC2 and RC4 slice with default settings. Hmm I am noticing strange behavior such as the top surfaces not being sealed, I did turn the "solid-infill for top" option in expert settings to ON. Also walls were too thick one time, and comb didn't appear to be working on one of the parts I printed; the Ultimaker would travel over a large empty section even though it was obvious a combed path was entirely possible :/ I am doing a third print with Cura RC4 now, will post photos when its
  10. I am actually thinking of constructing a nicely sealed hot-box for my Ultimaker. I notice that a lot of professional printers are encased in a sealed enclosure of some kind. Now I'm assuming that the purpose is to maintain a nice, constant internal temperature for printing. Has anyone tried a hot-box? I think if I make one, I'll keep it around 50 Degrees C. I also have a Prusa Mendel coming along for handling large, crude bulk parts. We'll see how that goes...it looks...primitive, compared to the Ultimaker...no hobbed bolt, printed parts that are not all that accurate, etc.
  11. Sorry for the silence guys! I just moved into a horribly cold office room as my house was starting to get too small, temperatures in here average 14-16 degrees celsius...so struggling to get the heated bed working was taking up a lot of my time...After messing around with a few cheap china power supplies, I finally threw in the towel and invested in a laboratory power supply. It wasn't cheap about 350USD, but I know its rock-solid as I've used these before, and the best part is I CAN TUNE THE OUTPUT. I will probably use it to power something else in the future My funny voltage and current li
  12. Hmm I flashed the firmware using a version of Marlin that supports a heated bed - using Daid's Marlin builder- http://daid.eu/~daid/marlin_build/index.php But now I'm getting a host of other problems, like the Ulticontroller not being able to move the steppers around, heated bed temperature being reported incorrectly, etc. Hmm, I have both a 4.7kOhm and 100kOhm Thermistor at the moment, so trying to see which works best. Most threads say to use a 100kOhm Thermistor with a 4.7kOhm Resistor to form a 3-legged circuit - but I tried that and temperature reporting is still wonky. Now I'm j
  13. Will putting 4900Ohms in parallel with the 100kOhm Thermistor, magically transform it into a 4.7kOhm Thermistor? Or am I just kidding myself?
  14. Wookay, I managed to get a nice PCB heated bed from my local RepRap dealer, there actually is a RepRap dealer in Singapore now. O.O Seems to me to be a 19V thing, so I guess I shall try to plug it into one of my v1.5.6 electronics board's green sockets. It actually says "heated bed" there. I plan to also get a 19V 400W power supply brick for my Ultimaker...or is it safe to run two 120W 19V power supplies in parallel to the Ultimaker? That way I get an additional 120W for the heated bed. My main issue though is that the kind dealer gave me a 100kOhm Thermistor, but the Ultimaker Add-On Wiki
  15. So it's an add-on circuit? Like a bread board?
  16. Ooo can't see your photo! Where did you connect it to?
  17. Hey Daid, I used RC3 for a couple of prints and its looking good so far. Just a couple of issues though: 1. When in the simple-mode, the z-tray moves extremely slowly, resulting in the primed extruder become unprimed as it drips its contents onto the stage before the print starts, so Layer 0 is basically not printed as there is no more PLA in the extruder head 2. When I flip the models say along x, y, z, the flipped model ends up at the side of the build area rather than the center...is there a way to center it? 3. Where did the options for duplicating objects go to? That was quite useful.
  18. Hmmmm, okay I shall remodel it and try again, thanks for the feedback
  19. Have you tried Autodesk 123D Catch Beta? It's a Cloud-Based 3d scanner. It actually works quite well, though not as expected - it works better with lousy data than with good data. I think primarily because it was meant to be used by tourists shakily holding cameras and snapping off multiple views of the same object, haha! It's free too, I gave it a go over the weekend, and it seems to work about 75% of the time. =)
  20. Wow! Daid, I headed over to download RC3, and saw my bracelet on your front page! How did the print go? Did skeinforge pave-over the center? =)
  21. Hmm the ridge appears because plastic pools in that spot as the z-tray is moving downwards?
  22. Damnn, I'm so excited!! =) I just finished a couple of ultra-fine gear prints with Cura RC2! The spacing between those teeth is <1mm. Check it out: https://plus.google.com/photos/10422046 ... 7801200274 I'll go download RC3 once I finish this batch of prints! Anyway just curious Daid, is there a way to decrease the Joris-Bump? I have Joris turned on in expert settings already, but the line still appears (see photograph, lower-left silver cylinder). I'm already superbly happy with my prints, so its just a niggling issue. Thanks so much! =) Oh yes, I also improved the X-Y accuracy by
  23. Hmm I connected quite a long LED strip, removing now for fear of overheat. The light wasn't constant too and appeared to pulse in sync with the 12V fan current - I'm assuming the fan motor is pulsed to save energy, seems that way. More importantly, you mentioned there's a 19V terminal for a heated bed? I want to try printing in ABS as what little that I've printed looks awesomely smooth! Anyway for me to connect a HBP?
  24. Hi Guys, I have a string of 12V white LEDs that I want to add to the ultimaker, so I can see prints better. Know anywhere where I can connect them to, that supplies 12V? Thanks I'm new to Arduino
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