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Everything posted by tachyio

  1. This is fixable. This is an Dual head Ultimaker print: http://www.thingiverse.com/derivative:27402 But you do not want to know how long the slicing took, as it was manually edited GCode to get it to work. (Not my print) In Cura there's the retraction distance, under advanced options, though I haven't yet messed with it. Should I try it out by setting a retract distance? I imagine that if the gear reversed enough...it could lift the filament back into the nozzle, maybe the retraction distance at this point in time is too short. I visited a reprap farm yesterday and the guy said that if you
  2. Ah right sorry, PVA not soluble PLA... Does anyone know where I can learn GCode? Is there a resource for this?
  3. I too would like dual extrusion, printing with soluble PLA as support would open up so many possibilities for my designs But I do notice the Bowden Tube "lag" as well. When the extruder gear reverses, the hot plastic continues to drip out. How do they combat this on the commercial printers? The hp 3d printer, design jet, uses FDM but prints with support too. So there's some dual extrusion magic going on there... Or...just some imaginative thinking, could the extruder system be made to switch between filaments? Like those multi-cd loaders we used to have in our cars...that way one head can
  4. Issues resolved after stepper belt tightening, and now using Cura Cura prints: https://plus.google.com/photos/10422046 ... 8660985857
  5. Hi Alaris, what software do you use to modify STL files?
  6. Okay I uploaded the part to Thingiverse.com! http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:22791 It's design is a culmination of some of the suggestions posted here such as adding circles, reducing bulk volume, etc Solidworks 2010 and later has a built in stress simulation module. It's under tools, Simulation Xpress. Just set fixtures (parts that don't move, like the floor, or a bolted portion) and then specify where the loads will be. Next, choose a material. I used high-impact acrylic for the simulation, since I couldn't find PLA in the list. But my goal was to see where the stress was, rather
  7. Good News! =) No warping! I'm printing this with comb, so I don't get fuzzy hairs all over it. https://plus.google.com/photos/104220463645938697004/albums/5739490261864478145/5740199138427957922
  8. Haha! Yeah I read somewhere that rafts are for girls lol! Must have been the Ultimaker Wiki...can't remember.
  9. Daid > Nope cannot reconnect, have to disconnect usb then reconnect usb, then reconnect in software. Most likely software related, gone now that I've restarted the PC. Alaris > I've added these 1-layer circles, hope it works! https://plus.google.com/photos/104220463645938697004/albums/5739490261864478145/5740154749355539954 Here's a stress simulation of the part: https://plus.google.com/photos/104220463645938697004/albums/5739490261864478145/5740156859240514514 Also I've edited my part to give it a more cool 3d-printed feel, yeaahh
  10. Hmm okay I shall redesign my part to incorporate holes in the bottom to use less material One other thing though, my Ultimaker just started randomly shutting down during prints. The error is a serial write-timeout-error. It's never happened before. Anyone know what's up with it? Everything else is fine though, extrusion, x-y accuracy,temp control...but it just STOPS mid-way through a print. :/ I am jinxed... Cura Console Error Message: https://plus.google.com/photos/10422046 ... 1129241778
  11. Oh crap I think I have the same problem too. Cura RC2, with Marlin Firmware installed via Cura. Print, print, print, then STOP. I don't have my Ulticontroller yet, so I can't see any DWELL. What did you do to fix it? I don't have an extra temperature sensor lying around unfortunately...or should I try fiddling with the sensor's connector? Thanks
  12. Hmm okay I'll give that a go. Ultimaker is having issues again so I'm fixing them, printed well for 2 days and then it had a very bad jam... So if its one layer and I'm printing the first layer at 0.3mm, I just add 0.3mm thick discs to the 3d model using my CAD program? I don't see an option for discs in Cura, thanks Daid! =)
  13. Thanks for the advice! =)
  14. Hi Guys, I'm trying to solve the dreaded grilled cheese sandwich problem, I notice it happens on long rectangular parts that are either symmetrical or assymetrical, and less so on rounded, cube-shaped and generally symmetrical parts. Here's a photo of the warpage: I have several ideas on how to counteract this apart from a heated build platform, but I'm not sure if they will work - so I will be testing them out after this current print finishes. I am printing with Cura RC2, at 220C, 0.2mm layer height, 50mm/sec Theorized Countermeasures: 1. Increase the thickness of the bottom layer
  15. I didn't see Daid's post about the 0.3mm first layer height, but I'm using Cura RC2 and everything's working like a breeze now! Thanks Daid =) Anyway I think Ultimaker should just recommend beginners use Cura...I personally spent weeks messing with ReplicatorG and Netfabb with no results, but with Cura, *bam* my prints now look like the photographs you see online! (Also I tightened my stepper belts, I think that was affecting x-y accuracy, but generally I attribute my results to Daid's software lol) I'll post some up later =) Photo link: https://plus.google.com/photos/10422046 ... 86609
  16. Hmm right the tightness of the thumbscrew could be fluctuating. Strange though, I haven't changed anything currently, but its printing fine now...so really not sure what the matter was. :/ Diagnosing machines really not my thing haha! And Cura is awesome Thanks Daid! Ultimaker should just recommend Cura for beginners rather than Netfabb or RepG which both are so buggy.
  17. Okay to be scientific, I printed a second cube and watched it very carefully. What happened was that the filament began to jam again. In total the filament jammed 4 times, as seen by the 3 distinct lines along the sides of the cube, as well as the gaps at the top of the cube. As I was watching it print, I counteracted jamming successfully by using my hand to apply force to the filament being fed into the extruder motor. My new theory could be that the toothed gear of the extruder motor is getting dirty and loosing grip. As jamming occurred randomly, it cannot be attributed to some sort of sy
  18. Hi All, I recently moved to Cura, and I had to do some recalibration of the Ultimaker as it was jamming frequently. I finally got it to print tonight, after I did the following: 1. Core out the end of the bowen tube in contact with the nozzle assembly with a drill to make the exit aperture wider 2. Readjusted the extruder screw tightness very carefully 3. Moved printing temperature from 185C (on Netfabb) to 220C (on Cura, since I was printing at high speed) So it was printing all fine, though at a higher temperature so now I could smell the plastic, and its appearance was more fluid and
  19. Alright thanks I'll try that once I get it rebalanced and unjammed. I've been thinking a lot about SLA though, has anyone seen this? http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-a ... phy-at-Ho/ It seems like the logical next-step, less moving parts and no filament to jam in a tiny nozzle. Also with lasers we can actually get much higher resolution - nanometer wavelength. And I'm thinking to myself how to eliminate the need to calibrate the gap between the nozzle and the stage. It's really tough to get it just right for high-detailed prints. My friend and I designed a little mechanical piece th
  20. Oh boy I just tried replicating 0034, and somehow the new marlin firmware really messed up the extruder motor - the thing was moving at lightning speed. And basically the print jammed when a load of plastic got deposited onto the stage - haha! Anyone else have the same weird problem? I'm going back to 0026 for now, at least that works.
  21. Hmm my fan blows from the top only, that must be the reason. Anyone tried operating their ultimaker in a freezer? If the filament froze fast enough maybe even delicate structures are possible.
  22. Thanks for the replies guys yeah the blobs are definitely buffer related - I notice the printer "shutdown" for a second before continuing on... Hmm so printing overhangs is easier at thicker layer heights? Is it possible to use netfabb to print thicker layers for overhangs and then thinner layers for up skins and straights?
  23. I was thinking that we should compile a "Ultimaker print diagnostic kit" for everyone. So we all post our bad prints up, and the experts can critique them and provide solutions and then we compile a online manual of sorts. Is there such a project underway?
  24. Damn those look good! Your overhangs are so smooth, mine look like beards...I tried lowering temps to 185C and printing a custom cooler, but :/ still no luck...
  25. I used Marlin at 115 baud to print that, is there anything better? I don't have an sd card slot or LCD display unfortunately...
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