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  1. I too would commit to pre-order a set of pulleys with shipping to the US.
  2. Great. Thanks for the reply. I'll keep an eye out for it. Or I might just grab the source CAD files and try to modify it myself. Thanks to Nick for supplying the CAD in addition to the STL.. make life easier for those of with the means to modify them! -Matt
  3. From the description on Thingiverse it seems that this part will only work with a modified hot-end (using makergear brass tube) Is that accurate? I don't want to bother printing it if I can't use it with my stock V2 hot-end. Looks good though! -Matt
  4. You're probably over-extruding a bit. Make sure your filament diameter is specified correctly. Also, that spear tip is going to be tough to do. It's so thin and after the head of the figure finishes it's the only thing to print on each layer so you will be running at your minimum layer time. What tends to happen is the plastic stays soft between layers and continues to build up heat and warp up a little. Then when the print head comes by to print the next layer it catches on the previous layer and moves it around which is why the spear looks all crooked and wavy.
  5. This was a pretty challenging print. Lots of overhang and very little structural support. She was moving around quite a bit as the Z height increased so I had to slow the print WAY down and use a second fan to cool the layers. Sliced at 0.08mm layer height using Cura 13.06 beta.Total print time was 3:45 and max Z height of 101mm
  6. Just some light reading on the GT2 belts vs other profiles http://www.sdp-si.com/D265/PDF/D265T008.pdf -Matt
  7. I've found a few bearing manufacturers who sell linear bearings with ceramic or other materials for the friction surface rather than ball bearings. I'm going to contact one of them today via email to request additional info. From this page: http://www.lm76.com/Ceramic%20Coated%20Linear%20Bearings.htm "Simultaneous linear, oscillating and rotary motion in 1 bearing" and "Linear & Rotary Motion Together are Required" So.. sounds promising. The page is a bit confusing (they use the product name for a different bearing at one point) so I will be requesting additional information. With regard to the belts, my thinking was that GT2 belts and pulleys are designed to have less backlash and to work in both directions. MXL timing belts are really designed to just run in one direction and are not optimized for the rapid back and forth movements we subject them to in our printers. Of course, it's also possible that the accuracy difference between the two belt systems is small compared to other accuracy limitations in the mechanics of the printer so no net improvement would be observed... -Matt
  8. Hmm.. so would you say it's not worth bothering? I was considering upgrading my pulleys to the custom set a forum member is selling but I figured I might as well "upgrade" to GT2 belts at the same time when I found some locally sourced (US) GT2 pulleys with two set screws. -Matt
  9. I did some quick back of the napkin calculations with both the MXL and the GT2 pulleys. The only thing that should need to change in the firmware is DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT. My calculations for the stock MXL pulley arrived at the correct default value of 78.7402. The GT2 pulleys have a metric pitch of 2.0mm (vs 0.08" or 2.032mm for MXL). When you compute the steps per unit for that pulley pitch you get a nice round number of 80 I think I might go ahead with this upgrade. The other parameters of the belts are close enough to not matter (6mm width vs .25" or 6.35mm) I can also source belts in a variety of lengths so I can get a tighter belt to avoid taking up too much slack with the tensioner. I'll report back how things go. -Matt
  10. I searched the forum and couldn't find anything related to using GT2 belts so I thought I would ask. I'm considering doing some upgrades to my XY gantry and was wondering if this was a worth-while upgrade. GT2 belts are supposed to have significantly less backlash than MXL and should also yield greater positional accuracy. I will be printing these replacement XY blocks with built-in tensioners http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:45236 Probably converting to direct drive and also replacing the 8mm brass bushings for proper bearings. I've found a source of 20 tooth GT2 pulleys with both 8mm and 5mm bores and two set screws rather than just one. (Obviously the 5mm bore pulleys won't be needed if I go to direct drive). http://www.adafruit.com/category/122 Any thoughts, recommendations, warnings? -Matt
  11. I've considered picking up a piece of 1/8" or 1/4" aluminum plate from metal supermarkets and attaching one of these: http://www.ultibots.com/24v-kapton-heater-200mm-x-250mm/ Does anyone have any experience working with these kapton heaters? I like that this one seems to have a 100K thermistor built right in. Another approach I've considered is just getting a high wattage 120V AC silicone pad heater from mcmaster and driving it with a solid state relay. I would also incorporate a thermal safety fuse attached to the bed and in series with the wiring of the heater in case something were to go wrong with either the ultimaker electronics or the solid state relay. That's the only way I would feel comfortable with leaving such a heater unattended for any length of time. Also, that aluminum core bed looks interesting though it adds an additional challenge of coming up with an alternative method of mounting it to the Z axis. Also, the text of that product listing indicates you can print directly on the bed without glass. I'm assuming one would lay down some kapton tape or something rather than printing directly on the solder mask. It's also not clear to me if both sides of the PCB are heated or if only one side is heated and the aluminum is bare on the other side. More pictures of that product would be helpful. The thing I like about buying a plain aluminum plate cut to size is that I can easily match-drill the holes from my acrylic plate and use the existing leveling/mounting setup (although I think I will go for slightly stiffer springs and longer screws. -Matt
  12. I tried to slice and print a large part today. It only fits on the bed diagonally. However, when I imported the file cura kept the orientation the same as it is in the STL file but decided to automatically scale the part to fit on the bed. While I understand why this might be helpful it cost me several hours in print time :( today. I was printing this part for someone else so I didn't know that it wouldn't fit on the bed fully. So I got a 0.86x scaled version of the part :(. A quick "fix" for this situation would be to simply notify the user that the part has been automatically scaled. Perhaps a better solution would be to just do a quick calculation to see if any rotation about the Z axis would allow the part to fit on the bed and apply that rotation. I do have to say that other than this minor issue I've become a major fan of Cura and it has made my Ultimaker experience very positive. -Matt
  13. as a software engineer working in the 3D measurement field I can assure you that this is very common (not supporting XP x64) That was an oddball OS and is significantly different than Vista and Windows 7 x64 versions. It is not easy to justify the work required to make an application support XP x64 properly. Things get even more complicated when you rely on system DLLs that may only appear in service pack 3 of XP (a major service pack that has really given XP the long life it has enjoyed) but there IS no service pack 3 for XP x64 :( Bad mojo all around. I'm glad you finally got your answer though! -Matt
  14. Other than setting your steps per E and filament diameter ou shouldn't need to calibrate your printer with cura. Did you run through the first run wizard that walks you through checking all your endstops and such? If you're hitting the limits of travel but not hitting the correct end stop then your stepper for that axis will miss lots of steps (all of them) and make a horrible noise. If you've confirmed that all the end stop switches are plugged in to the correct locations on the board then you need to make sure they are adjusted so they will be hit before the physical limits of the x-y gantry are reached. To do that you loosen the two screws on each switch and push it in toward the center of the machine. You might as well adjust them in all the way unless you simply MUST have the absolute maximum build volume. As for the fan, cura does not turn on the fan for the first layer. This is to promote adhesion of your first layer to the blue painter's tape. If you are getting pas the first layer and still the fan is not on then you need to double check the fan's connector. If you're convinced that the fan is connected correctly you can always test it manually in PrintRun (installed with Cura). Connect to your printer and send the command M106 S255 by typing it into the text box at the bottom-right of the window and hitting the Send button. If your fan comes on it's wired correctly. To turn it off again just send M106 S0
  15. Thanks for the reply. I tried to slice and print with kisslicer using the configuration files that have been floating around but it had retraction enabled and I started stripping filament so I gave up on that last night. I'll see if I can adjust the settings (turn off retraction) and see what happens. I would love to try netfabb but can't bring myself to drop €150.00 just to see if it works. I can't seem to find a eval/demo version that will let me actually print. Maybe I'm missing something though But either way, I guess it's good to know I'm not the only one with this issue. I'll continue to tinker with cura settings to see if I can make this type of print work. I really prefer the integrated workflow of cura vs slicing in some other tool then printing with printrun. -Matt
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