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  1. The fan cools the topmost layer to avoid the printhead 'pushing in' the next layer (because it is still soft). Print small-diameter towers or overhangs without fan are hard to do; the top layer will curl up at the edges and get the printhead to take the print with it or snap it off.
  2. Whoa awesome! Can we get some videos of this script in action?? Makerbot made some seriously awesome time-lapse footage of an ABP-equipped thingomatic printing out all the mendel parts one by one. Never mind that the ABP never worked for anyone else, it was a pretty awesome vid and I bet you'd get a lot of customers when they see that. Maybe you can put a little printed bulldozer on the side of the print head so the robots are removed more successfully? Here is an early attempt by me: It uses the front left screw to press against the robot. I never got the Gcode to loop well though (M
  3. I'm hoping they are just covering costs for the separate set. It doesn't seem right to make a profit on it...
  4. We have had some succes using the print head to push a finished print off off the bed and then starting a new one. We use a different tape than the standard blue one for this: Sigma ProGold. It sticks a lot less, but still enough when printing the first layer at moderate speed and with the fan off. When cooled it just pops off. We use a switching routine and copy/paste the 'main' g-code + switch a couple of times. See Our switch code: (printer just printed our part, is on top layer height of 34 mm) G1 F4200; set rapid speed for travel move G0 Z44 ;go up (actually just final print h
  5. Just press down the moveable part of the coupling, keep it pressed and then pull the tube out. If it doesn't come out with little force, try wiggling or a push-pull. You're more likely to break the (already faulty) bowden tube than the coupling, so you can use quite some force - be careful of the wooden part breaking though!
  6. I just made this animation that explains the 'classic' bowden plug: http://wiki.ultimaker.com/images/Bowden_plug.gif
  7. I whipped up an animation showing the forming of a bowden plug, for use in future discussions: http://wiki.ultimaker.com/images/Bowden_plug.gif I will probably write a wiki page about it and its causes, but thats not a priority right now
  8. Your print looks very shiny, an indicator of high temperature. You could safely drop it. In my experience the first thing that will go is layer bonding and after that you might have extrusion problems (slipping filament) because of high forces. Just lower the temperature so you still get good layer bonding. Too high temperature will not necessarily be bad for your print, but it might cause more stringing or problems because of heating up the filament too much and it plugging your PFA tube.
  9. I think he'd like to adjust the fan speed during runtime. I'm not sure, I'm lazy and spoiled due to the awesome Ulticontroller.
  10. The classic bowden plug is when there is still a gap between the PEEK/brass and the bowden tube. Molten plastic will come up (because of backflow: ) and stick to the PEEK. Because the PEEK is much cooler than the brass, the PLA will also solidify. EVen more plastic comes up, sticking to the other cooled plastic and thereby creating a plug. With ABS there is no backflow. Edit: there are some other options for slicing. You can use Cura, which is a nice front-end for a (modified) skeinforge. It uses printrun to communicate with the machine. And some people are using KISSlicer which seems
  11. Have you tried raising the temperature? Could be that the first two layers are being printed with slightly hotter PLA and then it cools down, to recover later. This could be (but hopefully isn't) a classic bowden plug.
  12. It could be exact enough, and looking at http://hackaday.com/2012/06/05/blu-ray- ... engraving/ it should be possible. It is however very dangerous to operate a laser without proper protection. Commercial machines use a filtering transparent panel...
  13. I've heard rumours (but not confirmed) that it may be to do with electric interference (?) in the endstop circuit (?). To fix this, you could compile a marlin with the option 'endstops only for homing' checked, at Daid's great Marlin builder: http://daid.eu/~daid/marlin_build/ If you have any questions about that procedure, just ask!
  14. Or maybe not all your pullies are tightened - though you would need to miss two pullies on the same belt for the effect to be really noticeable.
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