frodeheg

Thanks, I really appreciate these tips. DeVIDE looks promising (although a bit complicated). I'll see if I can get the ultrasound company to convert the files into .dvx for me.

I had this idea about 3d-printing my unborn baby based on some 3d ultrasound images, so we got transferred the raw-data from one 3d-ultrasound session on an usb-stick, but the format look a bit proprietary and I cannot find a way to open them. Does anyone know how to convert .vol/.raw ultrasound files to .stl/.obj ? The .vol files start with the text "KRETZFILE 1.0" while the .raw files start with the text "%HDF" if that mean anything. Even if there is no such conversion program, I would gladly write software to do the conversion if I got a description of the file formats. Does anyone have any details? I'm absolutely positive getting a 3d-print of your unborn baby right from the ultrasound clinic will be huge in the future :-)

Wow,that's a really powerful mesh editor. This will help me a lot with cleaning up bad objects. Thanks a lot for the post, best tip ever :-)

Funny that you should be needing this right now when I'm writing software to handle that task myself :-) Well, actually it's supposed to be a new open source slicer with some nice features never seen before, but I haven't gotten that far yet, however what you're looking for is already implemented, maybe you want to be a beta tester :-)

And here you can get the metal clay if you want to experiment: http://www.metalclaysupply.com/Powdered-Metal-Clay-s/283.htm It should work with copper, bronze, brass, iron, steel, gold and silver according to that indiegogo-campain in my previous post.

netfab has a built in decimation feature so handling models is faster. You need to set the model to 100% to get full accuracy. Sorry I don't have netfabb in front of me, so I don't remember exactly where it was, but I think it is in the model list at the top right corner.

Finally someone designed what I think is the future for the nozzles. Multi colour in the same nozzle: http://www.3ders.org/articles/20120825- ... nting.html Would be nice to have it adjusted for the Ultimaker somehow.

This is good news :-) Congratulations Daid!

Nice printer! Thinking about it, it would have been very cool to have one of my own, now that I'm going on holiday. Nice and practical to carry around :-) ...well, I guess I just have to leave the ultimaker at home for the next weeks :-(

www.3ders.org/articles/20120628-researc ... tures.html

FYI: The filabot wee was just made public open source a week ago, you can find all the plans and part lists on the filabot forum or thingiverse: http://filabot.com/forum/topic/design-links-and-video/ http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:24583 I am wondering if I am going to build one myself...

Cool, thank you for the update, lots of nice features here. This reduces my wish list for the next version(s) to: * Retraction * Fixed bugs in support structures (some support structures hang in thin air) * Multithreaded slicing ...just a little bit more waiting :-)

Ian, that's a really nice city you're building. I'm impressed by the quality of the buildings, it's so smooth!

Thank you. I could probably have added two more diodes to get 50% more light without the resistor and still at ~20mA, but I only had one more diode and the shop was too far away ;-)

The only way to buy it is through the web-shop www.ultimaker.com, as far as I know...

Very nice! I guess the statue of liberty goes next, the pyramids might not be that impressive ;-)

I was just wondering about the speed dial on the ulticontroller and the effect on Marlin. It seems like it affects the speed of both the print and jumps. Would it make sense to change the behavior such that it only affect the print speed and not jump/retraction speed? I believe it could have a nice effect on less stringing when slowing down, what do you think?

There are some jumpers on the ultimaker pcb that set the speed of the motor. Have you checked that the jumpers have the right settings? (sorry I am not with my ultimaker now, so I don't know the correct setting, but it is probably on the wiki somewhere.)

I am happy you solved the problem, but the solution was a bit surprising. I would never have guessed it =-O Happy printing! :-)

You inspired me to add my own lights. I found these super bright diodes at Clas Ohlson. 5000 mcd, 3.2V 20mA 4 of them and a small resistor only draws 20mA from the 19V and I have 20000 mcd of light :-) And of course I needed to add a light-switch 8-)

Wow... Cura now owns Netfabb, seriously! This is great news... I'll download your profile immediately :-) Thanks for sharing this, you rock!

I don't have MacOs but it is a known problem that the print button does not work currently in Netfabb. You need to open the gcode in ReplicatorG or the ulticontroller. I think they should fix this, but since I have an ulticontroller I don't mind this bug, only the other bugs (broken retraction and support structures that does not go all the way down to the build platform, hanging in the air) I hope there is an update soon...

I am happy you finally got a solution to the problem. Good luck with the printing problem:-)

Wow, that's amazing. I looked at the tower myself but gave up because the slizer failed no matter how I tuned it. What did the scaling do to the printing time? I would guess this took all day or even more? Extremely cool :-) And Ian, well done with your print as well. That's much better looking than my first print.... or not to mention my 5 first prints. ;-)

At least it's better than those spider webs Netfabb creates. It goes in all directions and is much harder to clean. Nice print btw :-)