Jump to content

jonjude

Dormant
  • Content Count

    17
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About jonjude

  • Birthday 05/31/1962

Personal Information

  • Field of Work
    (Product) design
    Engineering
    R&D / Exploration
  • Country
    FR
  • 3D printer
    Ultimaker Original
  1. Hi all, I don't see any wiki/tutorial explanation of how that might be done. I can import an stl fie no problem uring the Import(".."); function, but there doesn't seen to be any modifier to specify the object is centered. Any one managed to force an imported stl file object to center properly ? Regards, JonJude
  2. Hi, Launched large print yesterday but found on return last layers missing because small extruder gear position on extruder motor shaft had shifted such that little gear no longer meshed with bigger gear - hence no extrusion for last layers. I note there is no grub screw to hold small gear in place (!). Anyone ever had this ? Any solutions tried ? What about this from thingiverse ... http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4472 ?? Best Regards, JonJude
  3. Hi Daid, Thanks for the reply. I think I need to mention, for the SW combination I got working before I had to specify VERSIONER_PYTHON_PREFER_32_BIT=yes in my shell before calling either cura or printrun. Yes, I'll try with the earlier version when I can. Regards, JonJude
  4. Hi, I have had Cura RC2, 3 & 4 running on OSX 10.6.4 since the summer, no probs with cura or printrun, using : python 2.7.3, python-2.7.3-macosx10.6.dmg wxpython2.9, wxPython2.9-osx-2.9.3.1-cocoa-py2.7.dmg pyOpenGL, PyOpenGL-3.0.2a5 (tar.gz) pyserial, pyserial-2.6 (tar.gz) This 12.12 dmg package installs ok - just follow the instructions - but it fails to launch, giving a MacOs Error report. Are there some to-do's on MacOs before running this new Cura version ? New Python or somehing ? Does anyone have 12.12 running on 10.6.4 ? Does an earlier version, like the 12.08 work ? I'm keen to try the "pause" feature ... Regards to all, Happy New Year, JonJude
  5. Hi - I've been making some large surface-area prints, but even after checking and verifying Z-zeroing across the print surface find that after a few layers the edges start to curve upward. Any ideas ? do I need to go even closer to the print surface to get it to stick good ? Regards,
  6. Hi - Can you explain more or send some diagrams or pictures of the following please ? "Bowden: -PTFE 4mm ID tube .... -Short section of 3mm ID tube before the V1.0 hot end; another bolt screwed onto the short tubing and clamped between wood and aluminum plates leading up to the nozzle." For the first - is this just the main tube or simething different ? It would be good to see what the second looks like. I'm having trouble with a V1/Bowden junction and will consider some try-outs before heading for a V2 purchase. Regards,
  7. Hi, So, maybe some more information needed ... maybe my description of the problem isn't enough "jump" and "stammer" are still pretty appropriate adjectives but it's more of a growling noise, perhaps even grinding. My interpretation now is it's the motor trying to turn and advance the feed wire but it's finding resistance. The question remains, what do people do about seriously curly/twisty PLA ... does anyone else have a problem ? Regards,
  8. Hi, I'm seeing this, I think, because I'm using PLA that has a vicious curl on it. I've been running with same motor setting since I got the machine. But it's gradually over latest usage, the behaviour changes as I get to the end of a PLA roll, or now I have begun using a new roll but one that seems to be more tightly wound on the spool, that I get this. I'm trying to see if it's to do with too much friction at the toothed bolt. Maybe because can't advance through hot end fast enough too ? Just to know, before I do it, how will a motor setting change make that better ? Regards,
  9. Hi there, After some time of reasonable results, I'm getting again problems of feed of plastic. I'm seeing that the torsion and the twist on rolls of feedstock ( as purchased ) can be very high. Suffice it to say, you buy a roll of PLA there's no chance of the PLA "wire" being straight, and without any twist. So I see regularaly the following : ** Feed motor extruder will jump and stammer, with visible loss of advance of the PLA wire, and loss of extrusion. ** Adjustements to extruder seem insufficient when rolol of PLA is a "tight" roll with a serious twist on the wire abd the advance screww can grind the wire. I am toying with the idea of changing Feed motor component to one like seen on : http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:15897 But there will still be feed wire torsion and twist - at least until someone starts seelig large diameter rolls. Is there no simple way to avoid feed-wire torsion/twist for smooth feed ? Regards,
  10. Hi, yes I see then what Owen means : ** when I start printing, and it seems too high I click manually the Z axis to reduce nozzle-plate gap (i.e. click the plate upward) ** If I have to click lets say, 5 times, to get the right height, that corresponds to what, 0.5mm ? ** So I'd have to put G92 Z-0.5 to have the gap closed for me (no hands on intervention) That sound right ? Thanks for the responses, Regards, JonJude
  11. Hi, Yes, indeed there is a G92 ... of the form ... G92 X0 Y0 Z0 E0 ;reset software position to front/left/z=0.0 ... I'm so far using the standard unmodified start.gcode that comes with cura ootb. Regards, JonJude
  12. Sent to CURA forum as this seemed more pertinent there.
  13. Hi - this one may have better success in this form rather that Troubleshooting ... It's about Z calibration and prints that seem to begin too far away from the print-plate. When I look at the start.gcode added by Cura to GCode, I see the explanation : " ..... ; if your prints start too high, try changing the Z0.0 below ; to Z1.0 - the number after the Z is the actual, physical ; height of the nozzle in mm. ....... G1 Z0.0 F{max_z_speed} " But if I put Z to be a positive number it'll increase the distance between nozzle and print plate, no ? Can some explain please ? How does a +ve value reduce nozzle-printplate gap ? Salutations JonJude
  14. Hi, More on Z settings ... When I look at the start.gcode added by Cura to GCode, I see the explanation : " ..... ; if your prints start too high, try changing the Z0.0 below ; to Z1.0 - the number after the Z is the actual, physical ; height of the nozzle in mm. ....... G1 Z0.0 F{max_z_speed} " But if I put Z to be a positive number it'll increase the distance between nozzle and print plate, no ? Can some explain please ? How does a +ve value reduce nozzle-plate gap ? Salutations JonJude
  15. Hi - How often do other users calibrate their Z-axis zero-point ? I'm trying to identify if the the gap between print head and plate surface on my Ultimaker increases too fast. I know hardened material can "falsify" the 0 of the Z-axis, making the head position itself too far away from the print surface : Whats best to dissolve cold hard PLA off the nozzle to ensure it's clean ? What have others tried to keep the Z-0 location opnce clibrated ? How often do you need to recalibrate on your machine ? Salutations, JonJude
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to the Ultimaker Community of 3D printing experts. Visit the following links to read more about our Terms of Use or our Privacy Policy. Thank you!