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greengecko

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Everything posted by greengecko

  1. I am now also a fan of the two layers. My idea why this is working. Two layers make the bec more elastic, so if the head hits the printed plastic a some higher layer it is better able to absorb the impact and therefore keeps better sticking to te tape. This leads to a loner better attachment to the bed and therefore less warping. Because my first idea was that a softer two layer bed should be worse, but that's not te case. So far i have nevervused aceton. I guess it dissolve fat from fingerprints and therefore also leads to longer and stronger attachments to the blue tape. Thanks for the hint.
  2. Not siure i looked for them a while ago. Given the spec 300 teeth, 0.25 inch, no clue which enforcement i think you could find them here http://www.smallparts.com.au/store/part ... /all/2561/ But would be good if someone could confirm the specs. There have been some reports that 300 teeth are too long and 298 or 297 are better. Does anyone has an idea about this?
  3. Hi For a quickprint i would like to know what is your experience with maximal layer thickness. I print successfully at 0.3 mm. I guess with a 0.4 standard nozzle the max should be about 0.4, but maybe I am wrong. Cheers, greengecko
  4. Hi, I still was not able to resource all things needed for a heated bed and I still have sometimes problems with warping/bending of the lower parts from the blue tape (printing PLA with 200 degree). What are the best hacks to avoid bending/warping of PLA (especially when printed with 100% infill and big prints stretched over the whole plattform? Lower temperature? Additional layer of blue tape? Somehow modifying the blue tape (aceton wipe??) Lowering the height of the first layer more into the blue tape? Using a raft? I know the only long term solution is a heated bed. But it turned out to be not too easy to find a tempered glass of the right size in Canberra (almost there, with even holes for fixing it to location of the original bed). Unyil then, any advice is highly appreciated. I would be happy to extend the wiki if there are any agreed suggestions.
  5. I thought about that too. And my reasoning why it could be a good idea is that retraction could be a bit better as the retraction takes only in effect with a short delay (because the inner tube diameter is a bit bigger than the filament). I see the point that it need to be bended a bit, but the shorter and more straight the bowder tube is the more responsive should be retraction. If anyone tries this, please let me know.
  6. Not sure about this. As does not each new line of code use more RAM? When I compile it, it says something about 96000 units of 250000 units are taken. So how much of the RAM is left (I assume there is some set aside for the printing buffer?!)
  7. Thanks a lot Daid. I managed to create a fork now I try to understand the Be social part. Cheers, green-striped-gecko (I had to change my user name as greengecko was already taken from someone :-(
  8. Hi I started to play a bit with the ulticontroller firmware. The reason to do this was: 1. I wanted long-filename support (works now, thanks daid). 2. I wanted to implement some tweak to have a progress bar (when I watch a print I like just to have a peek from further away from the room and this makes it easier to observe the progress 3. Think about other ways to improve the GUI (when someone selects a certain menu e.g. temperature in the control section, it would be nice to have a visual feedback/remembering as well, as sometimes you are not sure if you are still in editing mode or not. E.g. the > should change to another symbol as long as someone is changing the temperature. 4. Finally I would like to be able to set the temperature and the speed in the Main menu. Hence my question as I am quite new to the git version control system: Daid, is it okay to clone and make a new branch from your github version? To be able, I think I need to register at github (or am I mistaken). I guess I should start read their info on the website. If someone else has a simple idea what should be implemented to the controller just let me know. As I am pretty new to the arduino language my ability to implement more complicated things are limited. p.s. I also included that the nozzle goes up 5 mm after the auto home command to prevent the noozle burning into the bed after selecting auto home. I use autohome when I have to restart a print. I am also thinking of having a new submenu Prepare ->Restart (which could be pressed after stop->print) and then the noozle returns to 0,0,5, set temperature to preheat pla/abs and switches of the fan.
  9. The hot end v1 is now listed as out of stock in the shop, so I guess that means they offer the new one soonish. Hopefully my springs have arrived (costs 4$, shipping 5$) but I could not find strong enough ones at bunnings (=useless shop anyway).
  10. I tried the values from my pervious trials Jump speed 180 mm/s Z-jump speed 20 mm/s Pull-back speed 150 RPM not sure where I had these values from.
  11. I just tested the retraction pyramid and also set in the expert settings some parameters in the jump section, but I could not see any retraction, so it seems also to me, it is still not working. Too bad I liked the ease of netfabb. Also the slicer does a nice way to when printing surfaces. The ":" in the comments is now deleted in the gcode so a direkt print via printrun should work. It worked via the ulticontroller. So let´s wait and see until the change log is updated
  12. Hi there seems to be a new upgrade in netfabb 4.93. Does anyone have an idea whats new. Does retraction work now? Currently I am only using it for repairing models, but maybe it is useable again?
  13. You can rotate the model in netfab into the right position to do the cuts along axes. Works only for convex cuts but maybe that's all you need?
  14. I solved the layer shift problem. It had to do with too tight belts and and too loose pulleys. As always if two problems happen at once we tend to think about only a single cause. So in this case it is a win to cura, which slices fine and kisslicer creates some funny artifacts. Still I have no idea how to repair an visually fine stl file. Meshlab is far too complicated to do this and netfab would just not find anything to repair. Is there another software for repairing models?
  15. I am not familiar with google hangout. Is that also a way where the stream is recorded and can be viewed afterwards. As 20:00 dutch time is 4:00 am in Australia, and though being keen to watch thats not really the time when I am able to listen.
  16. Hi, I would like to print a sail for a sailing boat and developed a openscad script for that. The model does render and I can export it as an stl file. Now the problem start: regardless which slicer I use (cura, kisslicer) the resulting gcode file contains errors (e.g. kisslicer adds some funny bits at the edges of the sail) and cura does a weird thing and displaces the layer during mid print for about a cm (the gcode looks fine though). Could someone tell me how to clean this file? Here is the openscad code (I commented out some of the parts to be able to print just one sail) and I attach also the resulting stl file. I have the suspicion that the difference between two spheres does result in some funny misoriented triangles. But even netfabb does not find an error and hence the routine does not repair it. A hint how to clean the model (stl) file would be great. link to stl file http://www.bvwk69.de/sail.stl Thanks in advance. $fn=200; rotate([-90,0,0])difference() { union() { // //difference() //{ //translate([0,1,82]) scale([5,0.5,0.8]) sphere(13); //union() //{ //translate([0,3,82]) scale([5,0.5,0.8]) sphere(11); //translate([90,0,50])cube([150,40,100],center=true); //translate([-90,0,50])cube([150,40,100],center=true); // //} //} difference() { translate([0,1,40]) scale([3,0.5,1]) sphere(31); union() { translate([0,3,40]) scale([3,0.5,1]) sphere(29); translate([110,0,50])cube([150,40,100],center=true); translate([-110,0,50])cube([150,40,100],center=true); } } } union(){ translate([-50,2.7,0])color("Red")cube([100,20,200]); cylinder(100,2.9,2.9); } }
  17. Ich finde Cura gut, aber momentan verwende ich den Kisslicer (bloeder Name) aber gutes Programm. Die notwendigen Einstellungen findest du in dem google forum wenn du nach Florian Kisslicer suchst. Da ist ein pdf welches screenshots zu den Einstellungen zeigt. die oberflaechen werden besser als in Cura. Fuer cura spricht allerdings der projectplanner, der es einem erlaubt viele einzelne Teile auf einmal zu drucken. Bei mir aendert das was, wenn ich initial layer einstelle, auch die Temperatur sollte angepasst sein. Schau am besten direkt im Gcode file nach was fuer eine Temperatur eingetragen ist und auch welche Hoehe der Extruder im ersten Layer hat.
  18. In cura 12.8 unter expert-> switch to normal mode Dann auf den reiter advanced config Hier unter accuracy : Initial layer thickness eintragen. Enable Skin bedeutet dass er immer am Rand eine halbe Layerdicke nochmal mit einer Linie versieht, macht eine schoene Oberflaeche. Gruss und Viel Spass
  19. Das mit der Temperatur ist so eine Sache, da der Thermistor nicht besonders gut kalibriert ist. Ich habe auch mit 230 Grad bei PLA angefangen. Mittlerweile finde ich das allerdings zu hoch (ausser du magst sehr schnell drucken). Daher versuche mal mit der Temperatur schrittweise runter zu gehen. Ich drucke etwa mit 195-200 Grad (aber wie gesagt das koennen +-10 Grad mehr oder weniger sein). Es sollte nicht tropfen und falls du mit Retraktion drucken willst dann auf jeden Fall runter mit der Temperatur. Der erste Layer in Cura ist standardmaessig auf 0.3 eingestellt, das finde ich zu hoch. Ich stelle den ersten Layer mittlerweile auf die gleiche Hoehe wie alle anderen also meistens irgendwas zwischen 0.1 und 0.2. 0.3 nehme ich nur bei schnellen Prints bei denen es nicht auf Schoenheit ankommt.
  20. Hi Ian, I am in thesame situation. There has been a post in the google forum from Erik that they will have some announcements at an ultimaker event next moday. He also mentioned that they have three things in their pipeline ( in that order) Hotend Extruder Heated bed So there will be a heated bed at some stage but i am not sure about the time line. Recently there has also been a post how to build a heated bed. But there seem to be some disagreement if you need a relay or not. I started looking for some borosilcate glass in my area but was no successfull. All otherparts are either amazon or rep rap parts. Here is the link to the forum. https://groups.google.com/forum/m/?from ... uuPDlsAzmU My approach is to wait until Monday and hopefully they give some idea when these things will be available.
  21. Hi jcosmo, You kindly offered to shate details where to purchase a ptfa bowden tube in australia. Did you manage to get one for the mentioned 17$ ? Would be great because i am fine at the moment but had my first plug not sure when i may need to shorten it. Thanks in advance.
  22. Hi jcosmo, Thanks a lot. Indeed I had a beginning plug and cleaned the hot tube as suggested by only undoing the four large screws. I did the mark. Hopefully there will be no plug soon. It prints fine again. Cheers, greengecko
  23. @daid: Thanks for the advice. I will return to my normal SD card. @approx: The flu card looks interesting and i have a friend who maybe wants to buy a wireless SD card. For his camera. If so i will test it. At this stage i am not really keen to spend the amount of money needed myself. Cheers, greengecko
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