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  1. In theory,yes. In practice I doubt one can achieve this on a stock ultimaker. It would mean that everything on your machine comply with this order of magnitude, i.e that: - your bed is perfectly flat - your bed is perfectly leveled - the z-axis play is well under 0.01mm - the vibrations during print don't make your bed move, or that the move is well under 0.01mm - your filament as a perfectly constant diameter And so on...
  2. - The 2-axis screw is 3mm/turn - For 1 turn you need 200 x 8 pulses (the Z axis stepper motor has 200 steps per turn, and is driven through 1/8 microsteping) So one pulse gives you a z-movement of 3/1600 mm, i.e. 0,001875mm which is the theoretical resolution on the z-axis. 0,001875mm per pulse means you need 1/0,001875 (i.e. 533,33) pulses for moving 1mm. Which it's exactly what the step per Z says in the gcode : M92 X78.74 Y78.74 Z533.33 E865.89 Obviously, in practice, this is just not reachable due to physical constraints on every involved part. Or maybe i'm wrong on the screw and
  3. Or maybe your z-endstop is pushed up a little bit when homing your z-axis. Thus after each homing, the endstop triggers a little bit later (i.e. z-platform higher). if you use the stock z-endstop and not a non mechanic one (like an optosensor or a hall effect sensor) and if the screws holding the endstop are not tight enough, i guess this can happen. Another possibility is that you z-platform itself went higher, because the screws holding it got unscrewed with the machine vibrations?
  4. I got it on eBay (UK seller), here: http://cgi.ebay.fr/SCOTCH-3M-Detailers- ... 43b21e85c0
  5. I *think* that 3434 sticks less than stock, so you should be able to detach the part more easily after the print. The drawback may be that you get more warping as it sticks less, but i did not notice any PLA warping with 3434 (YMMV). Please, let us know. JP
  6. Great! Did you just put two layers of stock blue tape, or use 3M 3434? May be the nozzle is too close to to the bed, pushing hard pla on tape, thus causing over adhesion. You may try to increase a little bit the Z height. JP
  7. For completeness, i should add that i was doing a quick wipe with acetone before each print. I forgot to tell, because I was also doing this with the stock blue tape, and continue to do it on my heated bed borosilicate glass JP
  8. Thanks Daid, i will give it a try. I guess i must print it with ABS (i built a heated bed, and i'm afraid it will sag if i print it with PLA)? I would also take this opportunity to thank you for all what you bring to the community, obviously Cura, but also all your constructive and pertinent contributions (even when you have to answer for the 100th time to the same question, asked each time by a different person ) So: Thanks a lot! JP
  9. +1 for Bertho's feeder upgrade: - it is simple, both because it just replace one part of the feeder (not all the feeder) and because it is easy and fast to print (which is good when you can hardly print because you lack a good feeder!) - it has a spring, which seems mandatory to accommodate slight variations of filament diameter - it looks nice (see how it looks with 2 additional caps at http://www.thingiverse.com/derivative:33076 ) - and... it works wonderfully There are other very good models on thingiverse but I did not find one complying with the 4 above qualities (yes, it's a bias
  10. Hello, Just wanted to share what I found working good if you don't have a heated bed: I used 3M 3434 blue tape. I primarily ordered it because it was 5cm wide, and I was tired of replacing the narrow stock blue tape after almost every print. Following an advice found elsewhere, I sticked 2 layers (perpendicular) of this tape on the stock bed, and did not have to replace this tape after a lot of prints (actually, I NEVER had to replace it, because after some time I got an heated bed ) I don't know if it's the tape or if it's due to the two layers (probably providing some elasticity in case
  11. Hello, It seems to me that most of the fancy fan shrouds designs available on thingiverse may not be compatible with the new hot end, as the aluminium heating block is now a few mm lower (it's true at least for the ones having a ring around the nozzle) Obviously, I received my hot end v2 only a few days after I burnt the stock fan shroud on my heated bed, and printed http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:20459 as a replacement (of course, after 4 unsuccessful trials), and this one is not compatible :? Is anyone working on such shroud for hot end v2, or do you think it's the end of "ringed"
  12. Some people use a stepper motor as a cheap rotary encoder to provide feedback. Simple electronics are added to provide a clean signal that can then be used by e.g. an Arduino to tell the number of steps and the direction, and thus detect missed steps. So you have on the same axis: - on one side, let say a nema 17, to move the axis - on the other side a cheap weaker motor, to sense the axis movement Better if both motors have the same number of full steps, albeit you can't anyways sense missed steps when doing microstepping For instance: http://www.piclist.com/techref/io/senso ... ncoder.h
  13. "this Will happen if you try to extrude too much plastic"... Too much plastic can also be caused by incorrect steps per E value... What is your Step per E value? Did you calibrate it (using Cura wizard for instance)? I had the same issue because my steps per E was to high... JP
  14. I know that it may seem a silly question, but for the sake of science ;-) : what is your step per E value? I imagine that with a V3 bolt you started with 865.88 as a default? JP
  15. Yes, i agree that cascading another power component (either a relay like you did ou an additional external mosfet) is better for temperature control and protection of the ultimaker electronic. The french guy followed the wiki instruction for direct connection of the heatbed to the ultimaker card mosfet. I was initially planning to do the same, but reading more carefully the wiki, it says that 'it should work, but was not tested'... I will think about it.... JP
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