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gibbons

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Posts posted by gibbons

  1. As just an end user that uses both programs. Netfabb does make more aesthetically pleasing toolpaths than Cura. There was an update the other day to Netfabb and it’s finally using retraction. All I can say is that I’ve been able to print a mess of projects at around .06 with supports and get fairly decent results.

    Before that update I've been testing back in forth in both programs to try to get the right look for my printed objects. As long as Netfabb retraction works properly I suppose I'll be using that program a bit more.

  2. Yesterday 1/21/13 netfabb wanted to grab the latest update. So I agreed, felt frusteration that there was no documentation as to what was updated and began to prep a print that included fluff support. Didn't expect that it would start to use retraction.

    I've only seen Cura's retraction in action, this new Netfabb use of it almost seems violent. All I can say is that it printed a complex form with no strings or mess.

  3. I don’t know how to ‘read’ gcode and it would really be helpful to ensure that the instructions sent to the ultimaker look like they will work.

    Just as context; I’m having trust issues with netfabb, and I’d like to really check things over before printing.

    So far I’ve used Repetier-Host https://github.com/repetier/Repetier-Host as a program to import gcode and look at things. Not sure if it is displaying things correctly. Just wanted to see if I should be using it or some other program to examine gcode.

  4. Exported the gcode out to visualizer, Repetier-Host https://github.com/repetier/Repetier-Host

    And it seems there is a flaw in the g-code that layer 264 of 497 that the issue begins.

    Began a process of creating toolpaths in netfabb and exporting out to Repetier-Host.

    So I took the one problem file and exported it from Rhino as a lower polycount STL over to netfabb. Same issue just started at a different layer.

    Processed the twisted bottle file. Same issue.

    The only one that didn't get strange was the ultimaker axis belt alignment stl file. Somehow that didn't get screwy.

    Is this normal for NetFabb? Frankly I would like to return software if it is incapable of doing the job it is intended for properly.

    g-code_issue.jpg

  5. What does it mean when 75% through a print the Ultimaker goes 'nuts' and begins printing in a completely new location?

    Happened twice, similar design different stl files. Is there some way to check the gcode in a separate application to visually discern where the problem happens to be.

  6. I did try to adjust the Z leadscrew on my third failed netfabb experiement, unlike cura the ultimaker really didn't like it. (after that it decided it didn't like the 0,0,0 position and made a new one)

    Thanks again Troy. This evening will be filled with more testing. If I can get consistent results I'll document everything.

  7. Suppose I should report back with my results.

    My intent was to go through the suggested steps then document everything and create a nice PDF as a quick start guide for others to use. (Including screenshots and photos)

    The only thing that I realize in retrospect in last night’s testing was that I did not select the ultra PLA under the material setting.

    First off found that I had to adjust my baud rate for the software and ultimaker to communicate.

    Started with silver PLA and the 20mm box as recommended on the ‘Newcomer guide to your first 3D print’ wiki page. http://www.thingiverse.com/download:17274

    So with Ultimaker (volumetric) selected tried the 20mm test block with an outline. I experienced curling. Which Cura didn’t do. So I’m not sure if it was a temperature issue or not. Or if the machine was just going too fast.

    Experimented several times. And had issues where it didn’t want to stick to the blue tape. Which was funny as it had no problem putting down the zigzag in the upper right corner, and then the outline. The actual object’s first layers just wouldn’t hang onto the tape.

    Tried again with a raft. As I recalled hearing that with RepRaps rafts were the way to go for avoiding curling. And halfway though the box the raft was drifting across the build platform with a blob attached.

    Tried a part of my own design hoping that perhaps a box was just ‘boring’ netfabb. It was soon sliding along.

    Tried a lid to the twisted bottle - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:12278– and at that stage it netfabb didn’t know where home was. (it started doing strange things)

    Turned laptop and ultimaker off. Waited ten minutes. Tried the twisted bottle cap in Cura on the finest settings.

    No sticking issues and within a half hour a printed cap.

    Cap_cura.jpg

    All I could think after that was did I want to dump the gcode from netfabb into Cura? (And then how do I do that?)

    Beyond ensuring that I select ‘ultra’ in multiple sections of netfabb is there anything else I should be aware of?

  8. I'm new to the NetFabb software and to DIY 3D printing. I purchased, "NetFabb Engine Basic - for Ultimaker." The material I’m working with is silver PLA that came with the Ultimaker kit.

    I’d like to take some of the guesswork out of this software by getting advice from knowledgeable users.

    My big question is: What settings should I use when first trying out NetFabb on an Ultimaker ?

    Say for example I import a 20mm calibration cube STL file.

    I assume after I repair my STL file I drag it over to slices. Does this determine my slice thickness or is that determined elsewhere?

    What is the suggested layer thickness, what is the minimum?

    So after that I go over to the Ultimaker section of the ‘context area’.

    Robert indicates I should select ”Machine Type: Ultimaker (volumetric)” under the Ultimaker’s Machine tab.

    Is it perfectly fine to use the default setting and just click on the Print Tab, Calculate Toolpath then Toolpath Tab, Print?

    Is it recommended to print a support raft?

    Are the directions from the prior post 4.9.2 http://forum.ultimaker.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=1009 solid, I couldn’t tell if users were having problems with them?

    Otherwise are there any tips I should know?

    Thank you,

    Michael

  9. Assembled an ultimaker kit, got Daid's Cura working, now its time to get NetFabb 4.9 running.

    And looking at the NetFabb application I haven’t a clue how to calibrate it and get the basic settings in order.

    So Calibration… Select [ultimaker] then the [style] tab, and click the [Calibrate] button.

    Now what?? There is no obvious print button.

    To be honest I need a simple step by step guide for calibrating and using this application with the standard ultimaker kit. I don’t need to know about wonky options. Just solid things like ensuring I can move the print head and platform around like Cura does.

    Granted yes I did review the ultimaker wiki entry on netfabb, but it lacks a certain context. And the NetFabb wiki entries weren’t the most helpful.

    Any tips?

  10. Chronoless and Joergen thank you both for your material insight.

    The real question I have is, out of the box can the Ultimaker handle ABS without too much issue. (Assuming that a raft would have to be made for each print.)

    I'm cool with future modifications, but just want to make sure that I can experiment with different materials without too much worry.

    Joergen on a side note I'd like to commend your camera project, quite nice.

  11. Thanks for all the helpful answers. :D

    Couple more questions while I have you.

    How well does PLA age? For example, colors get sun bleached, or it becomes more brittle?

    Have you played with anything like printing interlocking parts that clasp? Where it requires a little bit of flex in the parts to snap into place?

    As for 'thick and clumsy' ball and socket parts, what I'm trying to nail down is the feasible size and thickness of a socket joint. Making things that don't need support and work without too much cleaning. After having a few designs printed on a uprint, wanted to see if I could pull off more detailed prints on a Ultimaker.

    Thanks again for all the info. ;)

  12. Thank you so much for the quick reply Daid. ;)

    Now as far as PLA goes is there anything I should be aware of as far as the material goes? (IE, how it behaves at different thicknesses, or the usual do not drop, do not leave out in the car on a hot summer day)

    I’d like to eventually do some items that have ball and socket armatures but unsure if I could pull it off without having a thick clumsy design.

  13. Not an ultimaker owner just yet.

    I have some basic questions on designing objects for the ultimaker to print, (without using NetFabb to design break away supports.)

    Keep in mind I’m more interested in printing objects with the best quality so time isn’t much of a factor. So if it takes forever to print at 0.02 layer height so be it.

    • Overhang Angle – What can you get away with? (Repraps list approximately 45 degrees.) How do tiny layer heights influence this?

    • Bridging – metric distance for bridging a horizontal gap without incident? Influenced by tiny layer height?

    • Wall thickness – or rather how thick should the thinnest parts be as a rule of thumb, lets just say the whole thing is solid and not honeycombed. (Any differences between PLA and ABS)

    • Printing with PLA vs ABS – From what I gather the Ultimaker is geared towards PLA Printing. Can it also print ABS out of the box without modifying the machine? Again layer height, do things get strange with ABS for thinner layers?

    So very close to hitting the order button.

    When I’ve had my work milled with a tiny CNC machine it takes a lot of time to prep my designs specifically for the limitations of the machine. At this stage just trying to ease any concerns. And get a better idea of what I can print.

    Thanks for any feedback! :D

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