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  1. I have the same problem on Ubuntu 13.04 with Cura 13.06.5 deb package from software.ultimaker.com, and this fix fixed it.
  2. Be careful when powering up the heater when it isn't connected to the thermocouple, the software will not stop heating it if it does not know that it actually gets hot.
  3. Oh, are you holding a set for me? Sorry for not being more explicit :oops:. I am still interested in this, but when a lot of people showed interest I thought I could wait for them to report back. give them to someone who is already waiting for the next batch!
  4. Joergen: I understand that that's a possibility, though if I understood things correctly he is already out. What I was interested in was knowing whether these parts make any difference: If they do, either he or someone else will probably take up the slack. Thanks for your concern though
  5. Everyone who ordered: Please report back! I'm certainly interested in this, and would really like to hear from someone if it really improves things
  6. If you want to try different hardware configurations, I can certainly help. Iv'e got access to some 50 different machines (~10 laptops) of all makes and models, mostly disassembled. Ages for complete systems ranges from Pentium III and Athlon XP to first gen Core I3 and Phenom II, so not the newest models, but I could easily put something together specifically for testing, if you know some specific hardware you want to try out. I prefer to use Linux (most distro's, I'm not into Arch just yet however), but I could pull some windows from some very fully legit indeed source around here somewhere. While I'm not a programmer, and can't help you out directly there, I certainly not afraid of looking at the code, or at least mucking about config files and the like
  7. Nice! And that works? Are you using the insulation?
  8. Interesting. Why didn't it work? What happened? Did the molten ABS stick to the SS somehow? Please tell me more! I have seen that the all metal hot ends usually are very long, and they of course have to be to dissipate all the heat, but since the original UM hot end kinda works with just the insulating plastic and no heat sink, my idea with this design is that by adding a small heat sink, but keeping the plastic insulation it should make a radically sharper thermal gradient, and be kinder to the plastic and wooden parts at the same time. This is a good observation though! Ahh, this may well be true! I have never tried lathing copper, and may well fail Brass obviously works, but I do think that copper would heat up and cool down more uniformly, and thus make the electronics respond quicker. You might well be right though, the difference may well be very slight I would love to see pictures on how that fits together! I have so far only used the original 0.4 mm Ultimaker nozzle, but trying other diameters is something I have been longing to do. Does changing the nozzle size change what layer height you can use? That's a brilliant idea! Though I think you would still want a heat sink at the bottom to create a sharp temperature gradient for the filament... That configuration would save some bowden as well Well your input is most welcome in any event I'm afraid that the stock UM setup haven't worked to well for me, though I haven't tried the V2.
  9. So, I've been thinking about making a new hotend for a while, and the recent discussions on the matter inspired me and made me actually come around to it. I haven't actually made the part yet, but I've put a lot of thought into the design. This is where I'm at for the moment. Any and all feedback appreciated! So the sketch is pretty, um, sketchy. Its designed to be made on a lathe, and is here seen as a cross-section through the middle. The general direction of my thoughts here are that you want the hot part to be as short as possible, and as close (in the thermal sense) to the actual nozzle as possible. The first thing I wanted to do towards that end was to not have a separate nozzle and heater block, since that creates both a thermal block at the interface between the to, and a much longer distance for the heat to travel to keep the very tip hot. This part should ideally be made from a material that has a very high thermal conductivity, but also a high (volumetric) specific heat capacity, which will help its temperature to remain stable even if extrusion is not. So I looked up Specific Heat Capacity on Wikipedia. Intriguing read. It turns out that the material that best fits this description is probably diamond. Other than that though, copper really stands out with around 380 W/(mK) (Watts per meter kelvin difference, unit of thermal conductivity) and 3.45 J/(cm³·K) (Joules per kelvin difference per cubic centimeter, unit of volumetric specific heat capacity). If I can't get hold of any copper that fits my lathe though, I'll try some brass. The heaterblock/nozzle connects to a M6 threaded rod of Stainless Steel (one of the least thermally conductive metals, at around 18 W/(mK)), drilled out with a 4 mm drill to become a threaded tube. This part will act as a backbone and connect the other parts together, and also act as a thermal bottleneck, hopefully not allowing to much heat to creep upwards and create plugs or melt the PTFE parts. The threaded pipe screws about 5 mm into the copper nozzle, where it should be possible to make a molten-plastic-proof connection, given that copper is sometimes used as a gasket material. On the other end it screws first into a aluminium heatsink, and then into the PEEK replacement, separated by a few layers of fiberglass insulation. The bowden tube screws into the PEEK replacement from the other direction, contacting the threaded tube hopefully well above the point where the plastic being printed starts to melt. The exact parameters here will have to be experimented with. The above mentioned heatsink is shaped like a couple of wide washers stacked on top of each other but with a distance between, much like the heatsinks on the all-metal hotends, but made of aluminium or copper for improved heat conductivity. I'm leaning toward aluminium since it is lighter, and I already have the material I need. Exactly how large the heatsink will have to be is also something I will have to experiment with. The top part, which connects to the Ultimaker, and replaces the PEEK will be made from PTFE (Teflon, same as the bowden). It is largely the same as my current bowden, but has threads all the way through, and screws onto the bowden. The choice between PEEK and PTFE is pretty arbitrary, but I think I have some PTFE laying about. Between the PTFE part and the heatsink I plan to put some fiberglass exhaust wrap as insulation. I also plan to wrap the heaterblock/nozzle in fiberglass wrapping (This stuff is fantastic, I have some on my current, ordinary hotend to test, and with only one layer of 1mm I can hold my finger right to the hotend while it's printing at 220 degrees C. It is rated for 800 C, with peaks up to 1'300 C I have gone through a lot of design changes before getting here, this picture shows the rough stages of evolution: So what do you guys think? Am I reinventing the wheel? Am I onto something? For more detailed photos of the sketch, see the gallery under my profile. Also, beware the nerdy mess on my desk.
  10. I would love to be able to contribute
  11. Would it be possible to add an option to adjust the amount of extrusion separately for infill? I usually use the hexagonal infill pattern, and find that the walls are almost always under extruded.
  12. Awesome! I figured you had something like that planned I thought of something else Under the "Speed" tab in the printing window there is "Outer wall", "Inner wall", "Fill" and "Support". (Obviously it would be nice to be able to define that before printing, although I like having real-time control; If I recall correctly that was a limitation of SF though.) But what about travel speed? And fan speed for that matter. Possible? Although I have to say; Don't take time from working on your (probably) awesome slicer to do this stuff As an end user all I see is the gui after all, so don't listen to closely to what I have to say
  13. Ahh, I see Have you contacted Ultimaker about switching to these pulleys? Seems like a nice improvement. Either way I'd be interested in buying a few if they turn out nicely
  14. So if I understand correctly you went to some machine shop and asked them to machine it for you. Do you have a cad file? And what did you pay?
  15. Man, I'm out of the loop for a few months, and find everything changed. (for the better, Daid; Awesome.) Anyway, I had a few thoughts on how to improve on the awesomeness: I use the "Fan speed min - max" setting. My fan (not original) runs happily and very quietly at around 25 - 28 %, however it won't start at anything below 45%, and not always then. This is a problem in combination with "Fan on layer (1)" and the project planner. [edit] A simple solution would be to give the fan 1 second of full power before settling on the given percentage. [/edit, added proposed solution ] In the project planner, I for one would like back the ability to manually place parts. I would also like the ability to override if parts are placed to close together; If printing really low parts one cm in each direction is plenty, and changing the "Machine head size" every time is tedious. I Imagine a popup saying something like "According to the current settings, the machine head will crash into printed objects x, y, z [just pull the names of the red ones], are you sure you want to continue? Do so only if you know what you are doing." Being able to designate a 3 dimensional machine head size comes to mind, but I don't know if that would be practical... Also, why is the project planner in its own separate window? Couldn't we have the ordinary Cura window, and the side panel from the project planner available (collapsible?) on the right? This would be more intuitive I think, and enable a more harmonious workflow... As it is now, I find myself flipping between sometimes up to 5 Cura windows (Project planner for setting up; main window with all the settings; The progress window for slicing the next print; The currently printing window, and sometimes one of the "Expert settings" "Preferences" and "Project planner preferences" windows), which is a bit... messy. I have dedicated a computer with dual monitors, and I still have to flip back and forth a lot. Further, is there any way of looking at the layers in the project planner? I can't seem to find any way of running gcode generated at some other time either, or getting at the printer controls (jogging, temp etc) without first slicing some model, and then printing that. If I'm giving you a hard time it's only because I really like the stuff you're doing
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