Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited


Everything posted by dojan

  1. I have the same problem on Ubuntu 13.04 with Cura 13.06.5 deb package from software.ultimaker.com, and this fix fixed it.
  2. Be careful when powering up the heater when it isn't connected to the thermocouple, the software will not stop heating it if it does not know that it actually gets hot.
  3. Oh, are you holding a set for me? Sorry for not being more explicit :oops:. I am still interested in this, but when a lot of people showed interest I thought I could wait for them to report back. give them to someone who is already waiting for the next batch!
  4. Joergen: I understand that that's a possibility, though if I understood things correctly he is already out. What I was interested in was knowing whether these parts make any difference: If they do, either he or someone else will probably take up the slack. Thanks for your concern though
  5. Everyone who ordered: Please report back! I'm certainly interested in this, and would really like to hear from someone if it really improves things
  6. If you want to try different hardware configurations, I can certainly help. Iv'e got access to some 50 different machines (~10 laptops) of all makes and models, mostly disassembled. Ages for complete systems ranges from Pentium III and Athlon XP to first gen Core I3 and Phenom II, so not the newest models, but I could easily put something together specifically for testing, if you know some specific hardware you want to try out. I prefer to use Linux (most distro's, I'm not into Arch just yet however), but I could pull some windows from some very fully legit indeed source around here somewhere.
  7. Nice! And that works? Are you using the insulation?
  8. Interesting. Why didn't it work? What happened? Did the molten ABS stick to the SS somehow? Please tell me more! I have seen that the all metal hot ends usually are very long, and they of course have to be to dissipate all the heat, but since the original UM hot end kinda works with just the insulating plastic and no heat sink, my idea with this design is that by adding a small heat sink, but keeping the plastic insulation it should make a radically sharper thermal gradient, and be kinder to the plastic and wooden parts at the same time. This is a good observation though! Ahh,
  9. So, I've been thinking about making a new hotend for a while, and the recent discussions on the matter inspired me and made me actually come around to it. I haven't actually made the part yet, but I've put a lot of thought into the design. This is where I'm at for the moment. Any and all feedback appreciated! So the sketch is pretty, um, sketchy. Its designed to be made on a lathe, and is here seen as a cross-section through the middle. The general direction of my thoughts here are that you want the hot part to be as short as possible, and as close (in the thermal sense) to the actual noz
  10. I would love to be able to contribute
  11. Would it be possible to add an option to adjust the amount of extrusion separately for infill? I usually use the hexagonal infill pattern, and find that the walls are almost always under extruded.
  12. Awesome! I figured you had something like that planned I thought of something else Under the "Speed" tab in the printing window there is "Outer wall", "Inner wall", "Fill" and "Support". (Obviously it would be nice to be able to define that before printing, although I like having real-time control; If I recall correctly that was a limitation of SF though.) But what about travel speed? And fan speed for that matter. Possible? Although I have to say; Don't take time from working on your (probably) awesome slicer to do this stuff As an end user all I see is the gui after all, so don't liste
  13. Ahh, I see Have you contacted Ultimaker about switching to these pulleys? Seems like a nice improvement. Either way I'd be interested in buying a few if they turn out nicely
  14. So if I understand correctly you went to some machine shop and asked them to machine it for you. Do you have a cad file? And what did you pay?
  15. Man, I'm out of the loop for a few months, and find everything changed. (for the better, Daid; Awesome.) Anyway, I had a few thoughts on how to improve on the awesomeness: I use the "Fan speed min - max" setting. My fan (not original) runs happily and very quietly at around 25 - 28 %, however it won't start at anything below 45%, and not always then. This is a problem in combination with "Fan on layer (1)" and the project planner. [edit] A simple solution would be to give the fan 1 second of full power before settling on the given percentage. [/edit, added proposed solution ] In the project
  16. How is this turning out? Nowadays the obvious alternative would be a RaspberryPi...
  17. The download link to http://daid.github.com/Cura/ is down as of right now. You can still download from github however: https://github.com/daid/Cura/downloads
  18. I know that I would fail that print, either by grinding the filament from all that retracting, or by getting a plug. Aside from that, I would probably not use support tough. Good luck!
  19. Are you sure it's not skipping steps when you rise the speed, because of either lack of lubricant/oil on the rods; lack of belt tension; or bad alignment of the rods? I have had strange stopping/starting behavior, in a few cases I believe because of to small baudrate on Linux, and in a few cases it fixed itself with a re-slicing.
  20. If this comes up again, I'll translate (and maintain!) a Swedish version. In the meantime though, I wouldn't prioritize it (but that's easy for me to say though, as I'm quite fluent in English...)
  21. I can spot a few things that should make things better. First of all, for printing ABS your temperature is way to low: Try 250 C instead, that will probably help with both the extruder missing steps, and delamination. You should also know that the first model is a very difficult print, with those overhangs. You might want to try Curas built-in auto generated supports, but be prepared to waste alot of plastic and time over it. Know that supports are generally not used for supporting the weight of the model during printing, but rather to be able to print parts 'mid air' so to speak, and very ste
  22. With a gazillion distributions and everyone customizing their builds I can see that
  23. So I fixed the problem by downloading pypy-1.9 for 64-bit Linux from it's source, and swapping the extracted folder for the one named pypy in the extracted Cura folder. Everything seems to work, but will there be unintended consequences because of this?
  24. So I just tried installing Cura 12.7 on my secondary computer running Debian 6. After extracting and running "sudo apt-get install python python-serial python-wxgtk2.8 python-opengl" it starts and everything seems fine, but when I hit "Slice to GCode" I get "Something went wrong during slicing!", and "Show Log" reveals "/home/dojan/3D/linux-Cura-12.07/pypy/bin/pypy: error while loading shared libraries: libssl.so.0.9.8: cannot open shared object file: No such file or directory" What should I do?
  25. I have been thinking about posting a list of feature-requests for some time now, but I see you added most of them anyway The most important for me being the retract-on-support, smarter combing, and the min-max fan option. I also like the smarter skirts. Thanks! One thing still on that list though, is I would like to be able to print the infill and supports at, say, 0.3 mm thickness, inner wall at 0.1mm, and outer wall at 0.05mm. I know about the "skin" option, but it really doesn't cut it for me. Also, the auto-baudrate option seems to mess things up for me: Only about 1 in 20 times it man
  • Create New...