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Everything posted by rewolff

  1. No pitch is the distance between the lines. The "first layer height" is set to 0.3mm as you say. As a compromise between "faster printing" and "better quality I've set the layer height for the rest of the print to 0.15. The "first layer width" is set to 1mm, it's not in the advanced settings but in the expert settings... Hmmm, I now see it is under the heading "RAFT" so it may not have anything to do with the "object-first layer".
  2. Yes, some production processes require manual or non-manual postprocessing. But the idea of a 3D printer is that I can make stuff that I wouldn't otherwise be able to. One of the things I want to be able to make is "gears". The "gear train" of commercial products are usually injection molded nylon. But there are so many different sizes and shapes that it is not possible to just have a few in stock and build something useful out of it. Lego and Fisher-technik come a long way to solving this. Anyway, if I print a gear and it has a base that is wider than the rest, it will not allow me to put t
  3. You're saying to make my bottom face one line-size smaller. So both the first and second layer get to move into the leftover spot. Ok. That's another option. (but if I'm over-extruding, that might be causing problems on the inside somewhere as well.). The thing is: For a one-off project, just modifying the object is simplest and fastest. And it works to test out a theory like yours. But in the long run, I think we should define the models to be "the way we want the resulting object to be", and that the tool-chain is able to adjust for the inaccuracies of the building process. Suppose I build
  4. I've been thinking about this some more. One of the problems of 3D-printing with extruded plastic is making the object stick to the platform. If you just extrude a strand of plastic it will just "lie there" on the platform, and it won't provide a base for the rest of the print. So probably to make it stick, I have a tendency to configure the software/hardware to provide say plastic for a 0.2mm first layer, while the hardware has only 0.15mm clearance between the head and the platform. This creates some extra pressure and makes the object stick better. But the "extra material" has to go some
  5. The print I made some 1.5 years ago was * PLA * no heated bed (and I have that in front of me). The print I made a few days ago (and my friend's) * ABS * heated bed at 100deg. WITH capton on the bed. This is the PLA thing that I now have access to: The effect is more pronounced with the ABS.
  6. Hi, I'm trying to print a gear. A friend is making an object that ends at say 60-70 degrees to the platform (i.e. on a small base, growing slightly bigger upwards). My friend's object is getting printed and the print starts out with a vertical part. The base is too big. Similarly my gears (vertical walls) are sloping inwards for the first few mm. The rest is fine. Is there some obvious setting we have wrong? Is this unavoidable?
  7. I filed a bugreport on github yesterday mentioning one of the named items here. Daid pointed me here. So while I was on my way here I thought about "what else can be improved?"... Everything I came up with has already been mentioned. (plus a few other good ones). Thinking some more... Why does cura visualize the models? To place and manipulate them! Why visualize the toolpath? Now it's just "check". but in the (far?) future it might become a toolpath editor. So, within a layer there are a bunch of infills and a bunch of moves. I might want to change the order of the infills between the moves
  8. A friend has a new 3D printer. When I played with an Ultimaker a long time ago, the PLA was "easier" and I didn't see this problem. However, with the ABS shrinking a bit after solidifying, the overhangs tend to bend up. My friend doesn't have anything but ABS yet, so he's seeing this problem: The head hits the overhang, and potentially bumps the object from the bed. Solutions: I don't know. I'd think that doing the overhang "too high" when there isn't anything below, could work. Then approaching the material on the other side from the top might help. But difficult to parametrize: how much up
  9. Currently things on the software side are already limiting. For example, the general idea is that every 100us, it is evaluated weather or not another step is required.... So at normal speeds, sometimes yes, sometimes no. This already results in artefacts. If the Y axis is taking a step every 3 cycles, but the X axis every 3.1 cycles, a visible pattern can be seen. The 100us was chosen because the AVR in the arduino can handle it, but not much more. Fine. But having a 5x faster CPU can push the artefacts a factor of five further down the line. Keeping things whole means sensible limits for
  10. Oh. I remember that "device cannot start". This happened when the Prolific PL2303 windows driver thought it was talking to a fake PL2303 chip. They were annoyed at so many fake chips doing the rounds so they modified the driver to give that error message when it detects a fake chip......
  11. The above post is SPAM trying to promote their website, hoping to trick moderators into leaving it there with the formulation of the message like that. I was tricked until I couldn't find any link....
  12. I just put it on the floor behind the printer. Make sure to uncurl the spiral between the stock and the printer every now and then. You can have a big "spring" like structure between the stock and the printer so that you can leave it alone for hours on end....
  13. IMHO, going from "hot enough to melt the plastic" to "plastic stays solid" should not happen say inside the brass. Suppose you've been printing for quite a while with little extrusion (lots of jumps). Now everything heats up, lots of plastic melts. Next the print is finished and you shut it down for a day. Next day you try to print something.. but it may take a very long while to melt the plastic as far "up" in the brass so that it un-sticks. What is needed is a "sudden" transition from where it melts to where it doesn't melt. This is accomplished by the changeover from brass to peek. The
  14. Lots of plastics "remember" what happened around the time they cooled. So you have those food-containers that suddenly "remember" being flat if you heat them to 60 degrees. There is a bit of "tension" in printed PLA. even though it's less than ABS, I've had trouble that a larger box came loose from the bed due to shrinking. So what PLA "remembers" when you heat it is that it was supposed to be a bit smaller, but it HAD to be bigger to fit on the layer below. However the neatly extruded 3mm filament doesn't remember anything. Maybe the odd-looking curved sections have something to do with t
  15. I have a test-object where we print 0.2 mm through 1.6 mm cylinders with 0.2 steps. The 1mm one always comes out more or less as two separate cylinders, an inner one and an outer one.
  16. Print yourself an Owen clamp or two (*). Put them on the shelf, hoping your problems are now fixed. (*) Apparently they can break if you tighten them too far. So I've printed two. That went well. Then a few prints later.....
  17. As to the options of manipulating PLA outside the printer: You can also weld with it! Take a straight piece of filament, put it in your dremel. Run the dremel at around 10k RPM and you'll be able to make nice welds. I've done this way of welding when I got a model helicopter in 1977. I've tried it a few times in the last few years, but my 3k RPM big drill simply isn't up to the job(*). Not fast enough. The dremel works fine on the lowest setting.... But so far I've only demonstrated that it should work. I haven't practised yet making nice welds. (*) Each time it didn't work I said: Ok, th
  18. jcosmo, I don't see any "not aligned" error. The photograph could be better... Is the inside not touching the perimeter at some point? Belt tension. I think you're over-extruding. You told the software you have a 2.80 filament while in fact you have a 2.84 diameter filament.
  19. I have now designed "anchors" onto my object. This works. On the bottom part, I had designed "air vents" on the sides near the corners, but that didn't help. You should be able to cut off the anchors with a sharp knife.
  20. My rods started looking a bit rusty in places. Just a micrometer of rust here and there. Then I got the sounds. Those stopped temporarily after one oiling, and now hopefully permanently after the second. The rust is being worn off. So I think oiling is better than not oiling. Not oiling didn't work. Oiling did.
  21. At what layer height? I'm using high speeds to improve printing time. I get better prints at 0.2mm layer height and 50mm/sec than at 100mm/sec and 0.1 mm layer height. And I got the Ultimaker because they claimed "insane speed". I'll eventually figure out what causes the quality drop at higher speeds, compensate for it and print at 150-200mm/sec from then on. :-) So while you might be happy with printing at 90mm/sec 0.1mm layer height, I'm aiming for 0.2 @ 200... :-)
  22. Oh wait! You have an optical mouse? I was thinking about one of the ball ones.... Although I can appreciate your feelings about this, I think it is better to have the mechanics just work. Just don't try to extrude too much plastic and make sure your bowden tube stays put.
  23. I'm trying to print a box for an electronics project. In general it's 100x110x20mm. Has a few cutouts for connectors and things like that. However when I print it (in PLA) it curls up from the bed at the corners. The bottom ends up curved, while the top is perfectly straight. Any suggestions to make this better? (Next step for me is to create an "anchor" at the corners to keep it down.... ) I'm' not too keen on designing visible things in the design itself...
  24. Just for your information: I've had packages listed as "held by customs". When I called customer services: they said it was physically at customs and out of their control when they'd get it back. When I called customs, they said they didn't HAVE a place to hold packages, so that nothing could be physically at customs.... The thing to take home from this is: they sometimes don't tell you the whole truth. But you mentioned leipzig. As far as I know, Ultimaker is Dutch, Leipzig is EU, so there shouldn't be any customs involved. Or is this "on its way out of the EU"? Then it would be weird th
  25. Oh. Yeah. Forgot to say. 1) I have bought a few different colors which ended up spoolless... That said, we were still in the testing phase: as you say we were afraid we might ruin the whole batch of PLA, so we didn't put it all in at once. Yes, the PLA looks a bit different. When it comes off the spool it looks like it was once straight, but has given in and now wants to be curled. But the amount of curl remains the same for meters at a time. After baking it looks as if taking a turn every 10-20 cm and then there is a piece that's straighter than the previous part. But it feeds just fine! A
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