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Everything posted by lohiaprateek

  1. Well both links are the same guy RichRap, he is doing wonders with the multiple colour technique. I also remember hyrel doing a kickstarter for a similar concept. Not too sure it saw the light of day. I guess plastic is not the same as light.
  2. makes sense, not that I'm complaining, but I guess I do need that HBP upgrade
  3. well one of my 8mm shafts got bent, this is when I realized that the x axis was not moving smoothly, but sluggish for a few mms then fast on the other. Have had it for over a year
  4. Well I have netfabb basic for Ultimaker, could you send me the file via a dropbox or something. I'd try and slice it on netfabb with my custom profile
  5. I dont think CURA has a size limit, it has a polygon limit. http://www.shapeways.com/blog/archives/226-polygon-count-reduction-with-meshlab.html Good article to cut down on polygons making it easier to slice on CURA
  6. are you using CURA to print your files?. If yes, here goes my set of rules for doing Vases. Usually a 1.2 mm - 1.6 mm thickness works for me. 50mm speeds for walls help and 75 for the bottom solid fill layer. I usually print 10 solid bottom layers which is roughlly 2 mm so that the bottom is heavy making it rather solid. 210-212 Deg C is a good temp for natural PLA which I usually use to print. In CURA, the expert tab has an expert setting option in which you need to uncheck solid infill top, and check solid infill bottom to have a solid bottom and an empty top. This is the case for Solid Vase desings. Since yours is already hollow and has no top, your print will be inddependent of this option. You can see some of my prints on http://3dlabs.in Do send us a copy of your design and post photos of your vase. Happy Printing!
  7. http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-10pcs-3m-8810-High-Performance-35x35mm-Thermally-Conductive-Adhesive-Transfer-Tapes/1108058012.html ordered these along with a batch of 20mm heat sinks, should bring the temp down a few degrees
  8. http://reprap.org/wiki/Hall-%CE%98 Does any one have any experience with the hall-o sensor on the rep-rap page, fine tuning the z axis on the pot seems to make it fairly precise in the variations.
  9. http://reprapsource.com/en/show/6832%20what%20about%20some%20carbon%20fibre?
  10. Well, my two cents about netfabb. I bought netfabb last year in may, when repg shipped with ultimaker as the standard software. Slow as hell. Netfabb was fast and still is. Apart from the learning curve, netfabb is very very powerful when it comes to gcode generation. CURA is becoming better, but somehow I;ve got higher quality prints from netfabb than with CURA. Also netfabb does not do boolean in two overlapping meshes. It only joins it on the top layer. Have had plenty of failed prints to realise that happening.
  11. Filling circles is a difficult task. Hatch filling will never be as good as concentric filling, in this case as its a circle, try using slic3r with the concentric top and bottom layer filling. The results will be much better.
  12. I understand, and was always meant to be a proof of concept. What was astonishing was that, it printed fine, got a few hours of printing from it (had to keep cleaning the molten PLA though) inspite of the leakage, and the PLA that I have (purchased from Ultimaker) expands a fair bit, simillar to ABS. Ive ordered the V2 hot end, waiting for it come.
  13. So I got my ultimaker back in June and had been using it on and off, with multiple problems all along. The most common one that has plagued a lot of us is the Bowden Tube popping. Fastforward to 2 days ago, I accidentally managed to melt my peek as the temp sensor was not connected to the aluminum block and the heater was on. (NOT GOOD) Worked the entire last night to print without a peek and use fricton to hold the hot end in place. It worked and no popping of the tube etc, none of the problems because I could tighten the Brass Tube and see how much force it needed. But a few things I have realised while working on a no-peek machine (milled PTFE tube with the brass tube a few mm inside the PTFE tube, surely more than the existing peek architecture). A lot of PLA leaked from the sides of the brass tube (Orange = PLA, White = ABS) But this didnt seem to affect my prints at all. Infact the ultimaker was printing perfectly. Which makes me believe that PLA expands considerably and the expanded PLA leaks out from the sides. (Extruder Calibration needed maybe, dont know how with the latest CURA) Now if I had a functional PEEK, this leak would get arrested, but the PLA would still expand would it not? Again you could say that I could be over heating the PLA causing expansion, but I've used two different Spools, purchased both from Ultimaker and the temperature for a stable print have been 185 (Brown PLA) and 235 (Orange PLA). I could be completely wrong in understanding the problem and the importance of the peek in the design. Could someone help me to figure out how the V2 will help with expanding PLAs.
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