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vincentp

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  1. that's correct. If I use 4 mm, the extruder has trouble getting in pressure again and I have underextrusion as a starting point, which make my part above even worse. Around 2mm seems to be right, with very little stringing (nothing I cannot deal with, and the hotend isn't really oozing). I suspect the filament isn't sliding well enough in the tube, or hot end, hence it has issues with retraction even with the clip. It's been like that since day 1 but I'm happy I have working settings now. For most items I print, stringing isn't an issue, those are functional part, not beauty parts.
  2. allright, fine tuned the parameters, my Extruder Vmax was already set to 25 in the firmware settings, adjusted speed to 25 in cura but I got the amount of retraction down to 1.8mm, now I have a good trade off between having the hotend back in pressure and oozing / stringing. Travel speed set to 200 mm/s, no issue there. the new retraction clip suggested above is also a must, it's really strong and with the ziptie, it won't go anywhere. thanks everyone !
  3. all right, thank you ! so it seems I'm close to have a totally tune UM1. I'll work on retraction when I'm back to the lab on monday
  4. all that is very helpful thanks a lot. I'll print that new clip and experiment with retraction (again). I'll just make a fake part that simulates the travel between 3 little rectangular piles / poles and see how it goes. I might increase the travel speed too. I don't want to print slower in the sense that MANY people are able to achieve at least that speed without insane tricking or custom firmware. I went to the point where the extruded volume seems to be compatible with the printing speed and it works great even on the infills (which are indeed printed slower). Oozing sees totally spot on a
  5. dang ! It totally makes sense, I've never thought about retraction that way. Yes, it's totally possible that the hotend oozes a bit then it's partially empty. Two things : it looks like it's sitting on fluff but I've checked. Under is 50% infill, and it's fairly correct. The pattern looks like it's under extrusion, like my earlier prints. regarding retraction: I disabled it as it was worse with it. The upper part of the leg on print #1 had the curve wrong plus many holes along the way, but not everywhere. So I just removed it to reach my goal and get an overall correct print. So I suppos
  6. thanks a lot. For the very least it tought me about repetier host that I have just downloaded. It's a weird issue for sure. I'm not sure it's the Z seam. What you see there is the stringing (I had removed most of the strings as initial cleanup). After that section, it moves to the other side of the leg you are right, it starts by doing that small rectangle section, it should be filled up but it's not. Then after that it does the rest of the perimeter and infill. you might be right, and it could be exposing underneath layers as it's slowly taking up the curve. Sort of "inverted overhang". S
  7. Greetings, it's been a while since I have posted some news about my UM1. Now news good news as we say here. I've printed many part with great success, mostly 0.2mm layers at low speed, then I wanted to both improve quality and printing speed, so I tuned the settings to finally get there. First I'd like to thank illuminarti for his tutorial on max printing *volumes*. It's both "obvious" and also not detailed much elsewhere, most studies focussing on feerate or moving speed. Once I understood that printing thicklayer doesn't match with high speed, I finally warped my head around all this and
  8. hey there joatrash ! glad to see you here. mmm... so... more LG parts in the burner ? :mrgreen: good luck with your machine tuning, I do have a UM 1 and got a lot of configuration issues but it's not working allright !
  9. another topic about this, I apologize if it's a duplicate, I've search for recent topics matching my question and couldn't find any. First off, I'm very happy with my UM, I've been struggling a lot at the beginning with both SW setup and understanding parameters, and some HW issues (I have the first gen UM and needed to upgrade both extruder and drive). Now I've reach the "click and print" situation which I'm so happy with, get a model on thingiverse or design something, slice with the profile of my choice, put on the SD card and print, I get consistent results. now for the question : When
  10. fixed (sorry). Couple of things, sorry if it's been detailed elsewhere, I'm trying to find a straight forward way to compile the source code without making a arduino specific (at least not too much) version of it. This is supposed to help people like me which are make-impaired (windows based env.) issue with the LCD lib : for some reasons, having the lib included where it's requested isn't enough to have the cpp file compiled. Various articles I've read this morning say that you need to request it in the main file (sketch). Therefore, I took the inclusion code from ultralcd_implementation_hi
  11. thanks a lot I'm having issues compiling with arduino. I took the ultimaker branch archive, copied the source code in my arduino subdir. Edited a few things for the heated bed in the configuration.h file (really a few things). Renamed the ultimaker-main file to .ino opened it with arduino 1.01 compiled, got errors. Any ideas ? missing a file / dir location ??? The SPI and liquid crystal libs are part of arduino, so including them with #include should find them but I have a no go with LCD class. In file included from ultralcd.cpp:27: ultralcd_implementation_hitachi_HD44780.h:27: erro
  12. I'm in the same situation, I'm going to try the above. However, I didn't see defined on WHICH temp sensor input the heated bed is defined ? ultimaker wiki suggests that you can use either temp sensor input #2 or #3, is there one set by default in the firmware ? or something to change in the config.h file ? thanks !
  13. update time. now printing correctly. First off temperature : sticking to 220° which is becoming my "number" for PLA I guess. At 215°, the bonding is less quality and it's possible to tear the part off (the half-sphere is thin). I solutioned a lot of things in the past 2 days. I reduced my wall to 0.4 mm instead of 0.8 which allows a real filling in the thickness of the half-sphere wall. I also printed with no support and I changed the design of the part. Having a continuous flow exclusively on the part gives really good results. Now testing with high quality (0.1 mm layers), so far so good.
  14. nope. After the filament started to flow a bit, and a good 30cm has passed thru, I tuned the temp down with the ulticontroller and extrusion stopped working properly at 245°. I tried 3 times, filament was barely extruding properly at 250°. I disconnected the resistor and extrusion started to work again at 215-225° like before. there's no op amps on the analog inputs of the arduino. Analog inputs go straight to the internal mux of the ADC, which has the same defect as ALL multiplexers, internal resistance and capacitance, which equate a low pass and increases switching time (or you get wrong r
  15. Greetings, finally a moment to give it a go. First results with the new hot end were a catastrophy, lack of extrusion. I had to crank up the temp to 250° (!) with like no reason as... the alu block, heater, thermoccouple etc, are the same. I started investigating about the temp itself, then though about the mod I did last time, in order to prepare for the hotbed : the additional 4.7k resistor on the controller. bingo. I removed it, I have my "normal" temp at 220 or 225°C. This is a side (and ANOTHER) issue but I started to think about the temp sensor and the readings. Looking at the contr
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