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ascended

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Everything posted by ascended

  1. Thanks guys, I can't find an option in cura for the brim size though, just the option to turn it on? Might be better if i design a support structure into the model in SWX.
  2. I agree, I think it came lose from the bed too - wanted to get other peoples opinion first before I said so incase i had people thinking down the wrong track. Thanks for the tip on the isopropyl, we have heaps of that around so will be no problem. I couldn't find the blue tape that came with the ultimaker so bought two different brands of stuff at the local hardware store that look similar, they are a bit smoother than the stock tape though which I haven't found here yet. The very tip of the fin does lick up a little bit, but nowhere near enough for the printer to hit. I have a heated bed from last time I was using the printer, but I need to get everything working without it first. unfortunately, if this is going supersonic I need accuracy so parts fit together with no gap, and I need the layers to be strongly bonded. This is a prototype for something much bigger.
  3. 5 mins in solidworks gave me the base of a 29mm rocket to play with printing: It was going to take 6-7hrs to print, which I was hesitant to do overnight however Sander said it would be fine... so off I went. This morning, 7.5hrs after I left it: Looks like it all fell apart several minutes after I went to bed: And it also looks like my V2 hotend didnt fix the leaks (yep, all done up tight, no teflon tape however):
  4. I actually tried 3 arduinos. I ended up finding a 4th one lying around that had not been touched by the old ultimaker board, and it worked.
  5. Ah, you posted as I was tracing things out I've run the first run wizard in Cura on each of the arduinos to load the firmware onto it. Both traces are done with the same stepper driver, without disconnecting the logic analyser pins, just moving the driver from point to point. As previously posted, I've traced the pins and checked for shorts on both boards separately and together, and ensured the pin on the driver gets a connection as well.
  6. I've confirmed that all the tracks are intact, the pin on the stepper has continuity to the MCU pin. There are no shorts to ground or 5v, or any other pins.
  7. As a follow on from here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/2915-z-limit-switches-not-doing-anything-after-157-pcb-upgrade/ in order to have a relevant title. I'm having issues that the X axis always moves the same direction. This happens on a brand new ultimaker PCB (1.5.7) with 3 different arduino megas (one of which has a blown pin - as in totally missing - on the Z top limit input.) X Axis traces, top trace is step, bottom trace is direction (pegged to 5v) Y Axis traces, top trace is step, bottom trace is direction (note the step) Both are two 1mm moves in one direction, two 1mm moves in the other.
  8. I switched the stepper driver out with a spare one after my post, however it made no difference. Haven't had time to put a scope or logic analyser on the DIR pins yet, I might get time to look at it this evening. This is my 3rd arduino on this board, R0-R3 all used heh.
  9. Checked the Arduino board, the pad was not soldered to the board correctly. I have switched it out for now with another board. Now I have the system moving only in one directly on X. Stepping + or 0 always moves towards home position.
  10. I've finally have my ultimaker started after replacing all the electronics (and replacing the 12v fan with a 24v one.) All my limits are working now, except for the Z limits. Last time I had the machine working, about a year ago, these worked just fine. The limit switches are shorting correctly. Manually shorting the pins does nothing. Shorting the other digital pins to ground doesn't work. I've upgraded the firmware through Cura, the first run wizard detects all the other limits correctly however it just wont recognise the Z limit no matter what I've tried. Any ideas?
  11. I've just finally got my printer doing something, I have no idea how well right now but I am getting a solid print. I replaced the Arduino board on my printer and many of the issues which i had before now appear to be solved.
  12. As an update for those who may find this thread in the future - Upgrading the firmware by doing a fresh install of Cura 12.08 and going through its initial setup process. This seems to have fixed the issues over the Marlin build i downloaded from Daid's awesome build tool. Its now over extruding, but entering 3.2-3.3mm of filament width (when it's really 2.99) works beautifully with the easy mode settings of normal and fine quality. Now to get retraction sorted again, and I can hopefully be getting some real prints happening.
  13. Based on this, maybe what i really need then is a longer bowden tube... I completely rebuilt my head, i cut the 1mm off the end of the brass tube i had machined down, then i cut 1mm off the fat end of the nozzle, cleaned all the threads with tap and die (they were pretty bad), put on about 10 wrappings of teflon tape onto the thread that goes into the PEEK and it didnt print any better or worse. Hoping to run a bunch of tests in the next day or two at various temperatures again, then at various speeds.
  14. Attached is a different part i'm trying to print, which works fine in the larger section but fails as soon as it gets to the shaft. I aborted the print at about the point i took the photos. Attached are the parts and Cura ini files for each. The GCode is too large to include in the attachment.
  15. So, i'm still having issues with printing small parts/features. Larger parts print reasonably well now - nothing a heated bed cant fix. The new plastic has done wonders for larger parts, anybody in Australia having issues with printing should head straight to http://www.BilbyCNC.com.au and order a mixed colour plastic pack of PLA to test with! So, attached is a small part i'm trying to print, the top of a larger assembly. Small parts still seem to really challenge my printer settings. Any ideas on how to improve this print? It appears to not be extruding enough material, or the material is coming out in blobs. Even with much higher head temperatures this is the case. The only way to get a slightly respectable print is to go down to 20% or lower speed (from 50mm/s) at which point i think it's just the head drooling away which is keeping the print going. material is still getting fed smoothly, and the material is a consistent 2.99-3.04mm. 295 and 297 are two different attempts at print by the way - 295 being at 20% speed.
  16. I'm in Perth. If you have the name of the supplier for that price it might be worth getting just to play with
  17. I'd be surprised if ultimaker peek was 50% glass, as the standard is GF30. The glass only increases strength and thermal expansion properties. Teflon gets too soft/weak and wont handle ABS temperatures.
  18. Hey AM001, i've been looking at buying some PEEK rod, but at $65/300mm for 16mm stuff locally. Have you got a link the place you bought yours from?
  19. I agree that my first layer seems squished, but if i go any less (1/16th of a turn on the bed screws even) it wont adhere. I'll try a thicker layer. I'm getting there with the happyness - it's printing this part fairly well but some other parts are not going so great (with small parts). Trying to figure out whats going on with them before posting them here I'll try the same approach to testing them as I did for this. I printed a horseshoe to fit under the extruder drive end clamp so the filament slips back - not the bowden tube. I tried some ABS, and it doesnt adhere to the blue tape at all (as expected haha). Drawing up some parts for the mill to cut now to get a heated bed happening. Fluxline - when you come into any problems with your printer I highly recommend tightening your belts up (not with printed tensioners, they just flex till the belt is straight again). Print a square calibration piece to get your axes stepping the same distance on each axis. Then, print a replacement bowden tube clamp before the tube slips out.
  20. So, finally a side by side comparison - 220C vs 205C. 205C is the one on the bed, note the layers are pretty even and there is limited stringing. Print on the left is pretty messy.
  21. 195C. Quality is going down now and adhesion to the bed is difficult (took 3 attempts to get it started.)
  22. 200C (still very good, but not quite as good as 205c. Something in between should be the sweet spot i think.)
  23. 205C (I think this is the optimal temperature)
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