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Everything posted by ascended

  1. I apologise in advance for the number of posts that follow... with the limit of 3 attachments per post this is the best I can do Each set of pictures shows the square in focus, the circle in focus, and from the side to show the layers. Attached - print at 220 Celcius, 50mm/s print, 4.5mm retraction at 50mm/s. I also changed the minimum speed to 25mm/s (up from 2mm/s). Double skin is off, 0.1mm layers, 0.1mm initial layer, 0.8mm wall, 200mm/s jumps.
  2. Thanks for the link futurejames, I can't see that in any of the categories! I wonder what other useful parts are in the store but not showing up Via the cheapest postage option for just 1 tube: Grand Total Excl. Tax €28.50 I might have to find somewhere to source these locally, as even at crazy australian prices I might be able to get it cheaper Daid, Yes i'm starting to get better results for the print which is heading back towards what I had initially. I'll hook a PC up to the ultimaker and run the Z axis calibration test again as the filament tolerances are really awesome on this stu
  3. There is still some slippage on the material, however with the lighter pressure on the extruder drive as Daid mentioned, it recovers. There is also a picture of a lug for a PCB mounting that is demonstrating the same failings as the thingiverse part.
  4. These new photos are all narrower for Daid All of these prints are at 215C, 0.1mm layers, 0.1mm base, double height skin, 50mm/s, travel speed 200mm/s - in Cura The first print is a 3 hole test that was posted on the forum. I also tried this: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:22263 . These settings are with 0 retraction and the top parts of the pieces really go to crap, they dont seem to have enough density or something. Quite a few prints I'll need to do have similar features, so this is fairly critical to me if anyone has some ideas.
  5. Ok so now I have two Eclips on the tube, one at the upper wood piece, one on the lower. Hopefully this will provide some redundancy. The new plastic came in from BilbyCNC and the first lot i grabbed out varies from 2.98 to 3.01 along its length, and its very circular. It has a totally different feel to the stuff that came from Ultimaker. The PLA from ultimaker was an elliptical shape, and therefore very difficult to measure - I thought this was normal. I've got the extruder drive with just enough pressure to extrude I believe, so we'll see if it slips up. This bowden tube is starting to beco
  6. Considering I can't even get a part number out of them, I doubt I'll get a replacement part from them. It's not listed on their store so i'm not sure where even get one. I'm hoping to get some from BilbyCNC in the next few days. Well, this is for a business so we can print prototypes and small volume parts. With our chargeout rates and the amount of hours we've spent on it so far we're into 5 figure costs already (if we consider the time spent on this and not doing consulting as cost).
  7. Daid, you are a star Thanks for the in depth response. That's where you started to go wrong. I made the same mistake (even after months, and people calling me an "expert" and everything). You had a plug starting, right at that point. Your bowden tube has moved up a bit, a plug starts forming, and then you need more force to push PLA trough it. Very interesting, in this case with constant extrusion we're seeing a plug form in the first layer or two... Machinging the brass? Where does it say that and who added it? It's a bad suggestion IMHO. Drilling the end of the tube will ma
  8. Another couple of pictures of the clip slip. The filament is also shown in its heavily compressed state. This makes the problem of filament feed slightly worse.
  9. I have to admit that the Eclip took a huge amount more force than the standard clamp ever did. The part it was printing had a huge amount of fill with no gaps to allow pressure buildup to escape. This meant the varying tolerances of the material eventually overpressured it.
  10. Showing the modded brass tube in the peek and stripped teflon tube.
  11. More photos, the filament shows a compressed pattern as it tries desperately to push the filament out of the extruder.
  12. I'm feeling pretty dissatisfied with my purchase of the ultimaker. After reading these forums, and seeing peoples comments about it initially it seems like an excellent product. However having assembled it and then run into no end of problems it seems like i'm not at all alone. I've been waiting 10 days for ultimaker support to get back to me, and have tried pretty much everything I come across on the forums and google groups in order to get something to print, or at least - to finish printing and have some modicum of quality. When I got the printer, we had it up and running in about 5 hours
  13. I meant that perhaps the hex file which is included in the installer is faulty, downloading and flashing a build from Marlin Builder works perfectly and does not come up with those messages - and the ulticontroller works very well. Hence, I think perhaps the hex that cura flashed onto the machine has a problem.
  14. Ulticontroller is also heating when loading a file from SD card. Might I suggest you look into the firmware you include with the latest download of Cura Daid? It appears to be very very flawed :( I've almost spent as much time trying to get this working as it did to build it!
  15. I flashed on hex files from Marlin Build and now it works (or at least, it's heating). I'm going to reassemble the electronics and try to run the full print.
  16. Print run shows this: Connecting...startPrinter is now online.echo: External ResetMarlin 1.0.0 RC2echo: Last Updated: Marlin-Mon, 11 Jun 2012 17:33:42 +0200 - b67dacdc8f1bd489e058e16d92ba29c364b2a8e5 | Author: Build-Me-Marlinecho: Free Memory: 4494 PlannerBufferBytes: 1232echo:Using Default settings:echo:Steps per unit:echo: M92 X78.74 Y78.74 Z533.33 E865.89echo:Maximum feedrates (mm/s):echo: M203 X250.00 Y250.00 Z5.00 E45.00echo:Maximum Acceleration (mm/s2):echo: M201 X9000 Y9000 Z100 E10000echo:Acceleration: S=acceleration, T=retract accelerationecho: M204 S3000.00 T3000.00echo:Adva
  17. No, it doesn't heat up at all. If I preheat it, connecting to the printer reboots it and it starts to cool down.
  18. OK so connecting with printrun causes a reboot too. The LCD goes blank and the drives go on for a second then off again. (atmega pulling up on reboot.) So now i'm not sure what to do, i cant connect to the printer, and the ulticontroller does absolutely nothing.
  19. I'm using the SD card that came with the ulticontroller (2gb sandisk, pretty sure it's not a SDHC). Ah, could be the problem - I can't even do the calibration of the printer. I'll try printrun tonight, failing that I'll put the stock firmware back on and try it with inferior software
  20. I have my ultimaker with ulticontroller built, and am trying to get a print to work. I can autohome with the ulticontroller, move the head around manually and extrude just fine as well as heat up the extruder all with the ulticontroller. This is the limit of what i'm able to do though! I'm running the Marlin firmware that Cura flashes. When I first tried to upgrade the firmware it failed, I had to remove the arduino board from the ultimaker shield in order to get firmware back on the device. If i try to do anything over USB with Cura (ulticontroller still attached) it just resets the ultimake
  21. A liquid pressure sensor or gas pressure sensor could be used if it's housed correctly. The biggest issue is going to be in housing it in such a way that it's away from the heat and raw plastic (as that would foul the sensor). The biggest gain i see in the pressure sensor is when you want to back the head off. Rather than dwindling the amount of plastic in the head and guess at volume - you can use the pressure sensor to slowly drop the pressure down so the print continues but the volume is low enough that when you back it off it doesnt drool all over your work I'm sure that with the right
  22. R/C servos and servo motors for industrial control are not the same thing, don't get the two confused An industrial servo is usually a DC motor, or even a stepper motor, with an encoder on the back. They are extremely accurate and do not lose steps, as it has the quadrature to be able to tell it how many steps it has moved in which direction to extreme accuracy. Pretty much all industrial CNC machines will use servo motors, they are not that much more expensive (about 3x-5x) as steppers, but they do need a lot more control hardware. Even a cheap servo will have 1000+ lines in its encoder giv
  23. I was thinking that flexability/sag wouldnt really matter as you would need an insulating or heat reflective surface underneath which would provide that support. If a high temperature epoxy was used to seat the PCB against the insulator, it should not move or flex. If the board was made of high temperature FR4 (which i doubt they are) it would be even more stable
  24. I hate to make yet another heated bed thread when there are quite a few up the top, however I can't find one where this question fits well. Is there a reason why a piece of glass or aluminium is required on top of the PCB? Sure, it adds thermal mass to the system but the standard heater plates have a solid copper base which would spread heat out well right? The PCB should also be almost perfectly flat if it was made properly and should theoretically (at least in our simulations) maintain a more even heat across it's surface. So, is there a reason which can be mathematically proven for needin
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