Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts

jcosmo

Member
  • Content count

    90
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

5 Neutral

Personal Information

  • Country
    AU
  • 3D printer
    Ultimaker Original
  1. jcosmo

    Cura 2.1 open beta has been released!

    This is almost my biggest hatred of the app.
  2. In Cura 2.1.x is the only way to do this to change the type of printer to a UMO?
  3. jcosmo

    Feature Request: Please support OctoPrint

    +1, even though this has sat idle for over a year :(
  4. I print via USB using Octoprint running on a PI. Gives me video streaming, a much better interface than the little screen, remote management, and all done via wifi so still no cable. If I really want to take the printer somewhere I can always have Octoprint save the files to the SD card (doesn't happen very often at all). Found it rather annoying that the initial gcode added by Cura 2.1 did not include homing instructions for the UM2+ in the way it did for my UMO.
  5. I still have an unused E3D hotend in my toolbox and still undecided to use it or not, but I was thinking using @jonnybischof design (here) Any other recommendation for the UMO? I've used the setup I described above to print quite a bit of nylon, and it's worked well. I've also printed the design you referenced in nylon, and have it on the printer at the moment. This mount is quite firm, although I'll be changing to something else at some point - I want to be able to remove the mount without having to disassemble the X/Y chassis. The PLA mount never softened - I only changed because the original print has some slack in the X direction. The E3D hotend is quite tall, and these mounts hold it right near the top. This exaggerates any whiplash problems when printing quickly. I've a volcano block as well as the standard E3D block. The heatbreak locks into the heater block very firmly, but comes out of the heatsink very easily. For this reason I've got a second heatbreak, and just leave one in each heater block. I've added connectors to the wiring to allow me to disconnect the heater and sensor just a few inches above the print head. This allows for easy(ish) swapping of the hot end. I'd still like it to be easier. Changing nozzles on the volcano is painful, due to the long threaded portion.
  6. jcosmo

    Spare Linear Bearings.

    Were the ones you bought any good? I bought a set of 4 on ebay which were, in theory, of a reasonable quality, but they were nowhere near as quiet/smooth as the originals. Currently still seeking a couple of these for my printer.
  7. I've just finished rebuilding my UItimaker Original to use an E3D hot end, and decided to give the Volcano a try to see how it went. A few comments at this time: - I originally used the heater from the Ultimaker, and it works fine in the normal E3D hot end (it just sticks out the side), but won't work in the Volcano as it's too long. - I'm using the E3D thermistor, largely so that I can switch between the Volcano and normal E3D. The E3D block for the V6 which takes the thermocouple was considered, but they don't have a volcano version. - I've wired the E3D end to the second heater, leaving it possible for me to switch back to the Ultimaker nozzle without soldering. This required just a couple of changes in the pins.h file for Marlin, and a few other little things in the configuration.h of Marlin. I'll push these to github some time. - None of the cables that come with the E3D are long enough for an Ultimaker, currently I have an unholy mess of stuff dangling over the side of my printer to reach the electronics. - I ordered a 12v version (dumb!), but was easily able to order a 24V heater from a local supplier which fit fine into the Volcano block. - It's still early days in the printing, but I've yet to get a good print out of the Volcano, not sure if it's underextrusion or a slicing problem. It doesn't seem to be a blockage, or feed, based underextrusion, everything melts and flows very (too?) easily. - It seems that the Volcano needs lower temperatures than the normal block. At least for the Nylon I'm trying out, even at 230 degrees, it's running very very easily, and will drip from the nozzle in almost no time. - I've just wired the 12v fan into a separate power block at the moment. It may be possible to wire it to the 12v output on the electronics board, but this didn't work for me. I'm running a number of LED light strips from that 12v output. Adding the fan overloaded they system, but didn't want to disconnect the lights to see if it reduced the load enough to run the fan on its own. - The 12v cooling fan is dead silent - at first I thought I'd failed to wire it up correctly and wasted 15 minutes checking wiring before realising it was going round. Someone else said theirs was noisy - if so then the current fan is a nice step forward. I'm currently using a PLA hot end mount, but I'll replace that shortly with an ABS one, though it's not softened or deformed at all. I'm using this one: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/e3d-v6-hot-end-mount but it's not ideal. - It's shaped so that it runs into the banana blocks, thus failing to trigger the min Y and max X end stops. I moved the min Y end stop to fix with this, but have not yet bothered with the max X. Thus a loss of print area. - It seems possible to move the max Y end stop a bit further away, perhaps gaining back the lost space. - On the plus side, it's shorter than the Ultimaker mount, which gives an increase in available height, which is nice, although I've never printed something that tall anyway. - I'll be trying a couple of the other mounts mentioned in this thread to see if they work more easily.
  8. I think I've answered my own question - seems that a '20' is what I wanted. For some reason I had in my head that a 20 was associated with the UM2, not the UMO, and had disregarded it.
  9. Hi, I'm fiddling with custom firmware for a slightly altered Ultimaker Original. The UMO has the standard Ultimaker Heat Bed upgrade installed and if I upload the 'standard' firmware included in Cura 15.04, then the heat bed functions correctly. I've not yet managed to find what the correct TEMP_SENSOR_BED setting should be to build by own firmware that will work. Any hints? //// Temperature sensor settings: // -2 is thermocouple with MAX6675 (only for sensor 0) // -1 is thermocouple with AD595 // 0 is not used // 1 is 100k thermistor - best choice for EPCOS 100k (4.7k pullup) // 2 is 200k thermistor - ATC Semitec 204GT-2 (4.7k pullup) // 3 is Mendel-parts thermistor (4.7k pullup) // 4 is 10k thermistor !! do not use it for a hotend. It gives bad resolution at high temp. !! // 5 is 100K thermistor - ATC Semitec 104GT-2 (Used in ParCan & J-Head) (4.7k pullup) // 6 is 100k EPCOS - Not as accurate as table 1 (created using a fluke thermocouple) (4.7k pullup) // 7 is 100k Honeywell thermistor 135-104LAG-J01 (4.7k pullup) // 71 is 100k Honeywell thermistor 135-104LAF-J01 (4.7k pullup) // 8 is 100k 0603 SMD Vishay NTCS0603E3104FXT (4.7k pullup) // 9 is 100k GE Sensing AL03006-58.2K-97-G1 (4.7k pullup) // 10 is 100k RS thermistor 198-961 (4.7k pullup) // 11 is 100k beta 3950 1% thermistor (4.7k pullup) // 12 is 100k 0603 SMD Vishay NTCS0603E3104FXT (4.7k pullup) (calibrated for Makibox hot bed) // 20 is the PT100 circuit found in the Ultimainboard V2.x // 60 is 100k Maker's Tool Works Kapton Bed Thermistor beta=3950 // // 1k ohm pullup tables - This is not normal, you would have to have changed out your 4.7k for 1k // (but gives greater accuracy and more stable PID) // 51 is 100k thermistor - EPCOS (1k pullup) // 52 is 200k thermistor - ATC Semitec 204GT-2 (1k pullup) // 55 is 100k thermistor - ATC Semitec 104GT-2 (Used in ParCan & J-Head) (1k pullup) // // 1047 is Pt1000 with 4k7 pullup // 1010 is Pt1000 with 1k pullup (non standard) // 147 is Pt100 with 4k7 pullup // 110 is Pt100 with 1k pullup (non standard) #define TEMP_SENSOR_BED ????WHAT????
  10. jcosmo

    Unresponsive after firmware update

    Hey jcosmo, Could you please clarify exactly what wiring you used from the link you mentioned and how you went about it in more detail? Did you use arduino as ISP to wire to the board? Did you use the sketch from gammon.com or the arduino as ISP sketch? Getting the same problem here... Hiya, Sorry for the delay in replying. When using other arduino->arduino wirings (aka sparkfun) they were suggesting wiring the 'programmer' pins 10->13 through to the ISP pins on the mega. This never worked for me, I can't remember the exact error, but it was a no go. The 'dud' mega remained in the state where L flashed continually and rapidly. On a side note I got the same error regardless of Windows, Mac or Linux as well. So - my process: I used an Arduino Uno as my programmer. I happened to be on Windows when it finally all worked, and running Ardunio 1.0.5. To Set up the programmer I connected it via usb, selected the Uno as the board, and the standard programmer (AVRISP mkII), and uploaded the example sketch named "ArduinoISP". This went without a hitch - and I presume has done so for you as well. I then followed the wiring diagram on http://www.gammon.com.au/forum/?id=11635 In particular the section headed "Wiring for Mega2560 and similar" It's very simple - you connect the the ISP headers straight through from the Uno to the Mega, with the one exception - the reset pin on the Mega is wired through to pin 10 on the Uno. I did not have a cable as shown in that diagram, I just used a bunch of female-female jumpers I had. The wiring for the ISP header (needed to identify which pin on the mega is the 'reset') can be found in lots of places: http://letsmakerobots.com/files/userpics/u1533/ISP_pin_configurations.jpg for example I did not use the software found on gammon.com.au. I then changed the arduino software settings over to the Mega board, and to the "Arduino as ISP" programmer, connected the Uno to the computer via USB, and chose 'burn bootloader' from the Tools menu. Instant change in the Mega - the L light stopped flashing. The transmit/receive lights on the Uno went nuts, and a few minutes later (don't remember exactly) it completed, and gave an error in Arduino software, something about verification failure I think. I ignored this completely - I'd seen someone else post a forum that they had received an error of this kind when burning the bootloader and that they had just burnt it a second time. I didn't bother, I disconnected the ISP wires, plugged the Mega into the PC and it immediately detected properly, and I was able to upload a Blink sketch to it without problems. I fired up an older version of Cura - 15.04 - and used it to burn the firmware. This went without a hitch, and I was back to a version with dual nozzles, heat bed, all the other goodness Put the Mega back in the printer and the world was a happy place.
  11. jcosmo

    Unresponsive after firmware update

    Success at this end. Using the wiring described here: http://www.gammon.com.au/forum/?id=11635 Slightly different to the wiring described in places like this: https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/installing-an-arduino-bootloader I was able burn the bootloader. It claimed to error, but did actually work, and I can now upload marlin again.
  12. jcosmo

    Unresponsive after firmware update

    I have taken the arduino out of the printer, it detects fine under windows and mac, as an arduino 2560. I've built my own marlin in the past, although in this case it's irrelevant, as any attempt to upload a sketch even as simple as Blink, to it directly results in continual timeouts. I've attempted to use a second arduino to replace the bootloader, and this fails as well. Thanks for the ideas.
  13. jcosmo

    Unresponsive after firmware update

    Yes, The printer is no longer recognised as being connected at all - Cura doesn't detect it and thus can't upload.
  14. Hi, I recently downloaded the latest Cura and thought I might as well update the firmware in my UMO, as it had been a long time since I'd done this. I had cura set up as having a UMO, and when I triggered the fireware update it, without any questions, uploaded a fireware which dropped support for all the add-ons I've applied over time, bringing me back to a machine with just a single hot end and no heat bed. Previous versions of Cura have asked what features the UMO has before uploading the firmware. I thought that perhaps it was because I'd said I had a UMO instead of a UMO+, which to me seemed to be the UMO with all the addons I had - except perhaps the second hot end. So I added a UMO+ to Cura and updated the firmware a second time. The firmware updated, but left the Ulticontroller showing some very wierd stuff, so I rebooted the printer, at which point it failed completely. The Ulticontroller comes up with just blue light, no text, and the printer does not respond to any kind of external command. In an attempt to diagnose the problem I have removed the Arduino from the printer, thinking perhaps I could upload firmware to it via the Arduino software directly. The Mega board is detected by the computer, and Arduino software, but I am unable to upload anything to it at all, continually receiving timeouts. The board, on receiving power, begins to flash the L light extremely rapidly, never stopping - maybe this is an indicator of something, I've no idea - certainly other people seem to be posting that this is implying some kind of problem. Can anyone suggest a mechanism via which I can get the Ardunio back to the point where Cura, an older version, is capable of uploading firmware again? I have tried using an second arduino as an ISP, and attempting to reload the bootloader on Mega, to no avail. Thanks for any pointers
  15. jcosmo

    Printing a circular object

    In Cura use 0 infill, and 2.5mm (or greater) walls.
×

Important Information

Welcome to the Ultimaker Community of 3D printing experts. Visit the following links to read more about our Terms of Use or our Privacy Policy. Thank you!