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  1. This is almost my biggest hatred of the app.
  2. In Cura 2.1.x is the only way to do this to change the type of printer to a UMO?
  3. +1, even though this has sat idle for over a year :(
  4. I print via USB using Octoprint running on a PI. Gives me video streaming, a much better interface than the little screen, remote management, and all done via wifi so still no cable. If I really want to take the printer somewhere I can always have Octoprint save the files to the SD card (doesn't happen very often at all). Found it rather annoying that the initial gcode added by Cura 2.1 did not include homing instructions for the UM2+ in the way it did for my UMO.
  5. I still have an unused E3D hotend in my toolbox and still undecided to use it or not, but I was thinking using @jonnybischof design (here) Any other recommendation for the UMO? I've used the setup I described above to print quite a bit of nylon, and it's worked well. I've also printed the design you referenced in nylon, and have it on the printer at the moment. This mount is quite firm, although I'll be changing to something else at some point - I want to be able to remove the mount without having to disassemble the X/Y chassis. The PLA mount never softened - I only changed because th
  6. Were the ones you bought any good? I bought a set of 4 on ebay which were, in theory, of a reasonable quality, but they were nowhere near as quiet/smooth as the originals. Currently still seeking a couple of these for my printer.
  7. I've just finished rebuilding my UItimaker Original to use an E3D hot end, and decided to give the Volcano a try to see how it went. A few comments at this time: - I originally used the heater from the Ultimaker, and it works fine in the normal E3D hot end (it just sticks out the side), but won't work in the Volcano as it's too long. - I'm using the E3D thermistor, largely so that I can switch between the Volcano and normal E3D. The E3D block for the V6 which takes the thermocouple was considered, but they don't have a volcano version. - I've wired the E3D end to the second heater, leavin
  8. I think I've answered my own question - seems that a '20' is what I wanted. For some reason I had in my head that a 20 was associated with the UM2, not the UMO, and had disregarded it.
  9. Hi, I'm fiddling with custom firmware for a slightly altered Ultimaker Original. The UMO has the standard Ultimaker Heat Bed upgrade installed and if I upload the 'standard' firmware included in Cura 15.04, then the heat bed functions correctly. I've not yet managed to find what the correct TEMP_SENSOR_BED setting should be to build by own firmware that will work. Any hints? //// Temperature sensor settings: // -2 is thermocouple with MAX6675 (only for sensor 0) // -1 is thermocouple with AD595 // 0 is not used // 1 is 100k thermistor - best choice for EPCOS 100k (4.7k pullup) // 2
  10. Hey jcosmo, Could you please clarify exactly what wiring you used from the link you mentioned and how you went about it in more detail? Did you use arduino as ISP to wire to the board? Did you use the sketch from gammon.com or the arduino as ISP sketch? Getting the same problem here... Hiya, Sorry for the delay in replying. When using other arduino->arduino wirings (aka sparkfun) they were suggesting wiring the 'programmer' pins 10->13 through to the ISP pins on the mega. This never worked for me, I can't remember the exact error, but it was a no go. The 'dud' mega remained in
  11. Success at this end. Using the wiring described here: http://www.gammon.com.au/forum/?id=11635 Slightly different to the wiring described in places like this: https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/installing-an-arduino-bootloader I was able burn the bootloader. It claimed to error, but did actually work, and I can now upload marlin again.
  12. I have taken the arduino out of the printer, it detects fine under windows and mac, as an arduino 2560. I've built my own marlin in the past, although in this case it's irrelevant, as any attempt to upload a sketch even as simple as Blink, to it directly results in continual timeouts. I've attempted to use a second arduino to replace the bootloader, and this fails as well. Thanks for the ideas.
  13. Yes, The printer is no longer recognised as being connected at all - Cura doesn't detect it and thus can't upload.
  14. Hi, I recently downloaded the latest Cura and thought I might as well update the firmware in my UMO, as it had been a long time since I'd done this. I had cura set up as having a UMO, and when I triggered the fireware update it, without any questions, uploaded a fireware which dropped support for all the add-ons I've applied over time, bringing me back to a machine with just a single hot end and no heat bed. Previous versions of Cura have asked what features the UMO has before uploading the firmware. I thought that perhaps it was because I'd said I had a UMO instead of a UMO+, which to me
  15. In Cura use 0 infill, and 2.5mm (or greater) walls.
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