bertho

I have only been running ABS for a long time. Bertho

Thanks for the comments. I am surprised that I did not get notified about the answers since I selected that option. Bertho

I always wanted to know that actual force of the injection and I finally designed a system that gives continuous force display. See: http://www.vinland.com/Extruder_Injection_Force.html Although I have not been active here, I was on the email list, there are multiple Ultimaker mods and troubleshooting info at: htttp://www.Vinland.com/misc.html and at: http://www.Vinland.com/blog Enjoy. Bertho Boman

Actually, a slight modification to the Brim feature would be very useful: An option to select: Inside, outside or both. Bertho

Cura 15 on Win. I think this is an old problem even in previous versions. Brim: Extra build plate adhesion on inside and outside base layer attached to the printed object. It works as expected. Skirt: Print a priming/adjustment layer ring outside of the object. Offset xx mm & number of loops. That too works as expected, except if the offset is set to zero. I would expect that to print a layer attached to the base as number of specified loops on the outside as a skirt with zero clearance. In effect it would work as an outside only brim which is what is needed for some applications. Unfortunately it turns into a brim printing both inside and outside! I am trying to print objects with a clean interior (vertical tube) and both brim and skirt will not allow that. By the way, the expert skirt menu lists skirts as "Line Count". Brim is listed as "Amount" It too ought to be "Line Count". I know, picky, picky :-) Bertho

I like the basic idea since the gearing is simple to do. The taper ought to influence the feed significantly. Think about if the cones were almost flat. A 1mm filament would be right at the drive junction. A 10mm one might be near the tip of the cones and hardly move at all. You also need to keep in mind that filament sometimes is oval, not round.

Very interesting! I like to learn more about the "bar peeling" that you mentioned. Any suggested information source? I have been playing around with dual drive wheels and I am trying to see how this compare. Pulling force relates to friction and force. There will be a lot of force for relatively little spring force with the taper wheels. Is that better than two opposing drive wheels spring-loaded with high force to match the taper wheels' force? I do not know but that is the question to resolve. Bertho

Yes, if the fan fails the heater will overheat. That is why there is a built-in safety thermostat in hairdriers that will temporarily open the circuit. There is also a secondary fail safe link that if it gets even hotter it will permanently melt and disconnect power. A 500W power supply would be very expensive. The heaters are AC powered from the mains.

There is no red hot filament in my case. Th hairdrier heating coils do not glow. The heater is also placed high in the printer so no plastic can fall down on it.

The fail-safe cutoff is in the heater section and kept cool by the airflow at the inlet. If the fan fail or airflow is blocked the heater section will get very hot and the fail-safe will cut off power. This will happen quickly before there is any damage to the printer. It is a standard safety feature of hairdryers. Bertho

Eric, I have a separate PID temperature controller and sensor for the air temperature. The heater block / section has an independent over temperature cutoff if the fan or controller fails.

If you do not mind, what material are you referring to? I have a very customized UM-0 and might have to do a custom part for myself.

Eric: The cartridge heater sounds like an interesting option. I have lots of various shaped heatsinks. Then a low rpm rather large bladed fan to keep the air moving. There are metal boxer fans that might be acceptable. I could always otherwise put the fan motor outside and have the shaft inside with a metal blade fan. You got many interesting projects in Youimage! Jag är från Värmland men bor i Florida. Analog Kid: The vacuum cleaner does not sound like a good idea to me it is big to start with. I like the idea of the toaster oven hear elements. I even have a few laying around from another project.

Thanks for your comments. My motors are outside the enclosure. I am currently running a 400W heater and the heat-up time is marginal. Once at temperature it properly cycles. Using a regular PC fan has two problems: It is not intended to be used at 70C. A PC fan has large air volume but low pressure. The hairdrier heater coil relies on a high airflow to keep the coil temperature safe. High pressure is needed to force the air through the small opening in the hairdryer.

I built a heated enclosure for my UM for printing ABS. See: http://www.vinland.com/blog/?p=191#more-191 Temporarily I have been using a stripped down hair dryer as a heater but it is very noisy. What suggestions do you have for a heater? About 500W is required.