Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral
  1. After learning of the salt method I have been experimenting with it and PETG. PETG adheres well to plain glass (reportedly) and sometimes even breaks it during cooling (reportedly). I had been using the glue method: whilst can be reliable has been a hassle and eventually messy and I wanted to find something cleaner and quicker. Whilst I can't say that the dozen or so prints so far constitute extensive testing, the salt seems to do enough to allow the print to cool uncouple without breaking the glass, but still adhere very well when warm. It's also much more reliable tha
  2. 3.3 B Since I have an original without an LCD interface, the extruder preheat and G-code sender is very useful.
  3. Seems like the preheat function's (with USB printing) auto disable timer stays active even after you initiate a print. So if you preheat the hot end it ends up turning off the heat x minutes into the print.
  4. Regarding the comments on cyanoacrylate, there is certainly a bit of technique to it and variations in the formulations. Loctite has a number of formulations that are designed to work in surfaces of different finish level as well as different types of substrates. If you've done it right then the bond is always stronger than any printed PLA or ABS substrate will be. That said, you can get really far with your run of the mill $2 for 7 tubes CA with a little thought to the preparation and mechanical design. Par down surface imperfections with a blade, take advantage of tapering to gain closer su
  • Create New...