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  1. UMO Original with the Ultimaker Heated bed upgrade kit. Bed still heats fine, it's the orginal hotend sensor that brings up the error when trying to print with Cura, and which seems to be bad when measuring the resistance. Thanks for the help Sander.
  2. Thanks for the option, do you know if the firmware will handle it or will you need to compile your own?
  3. I still use the original PCB, any testing point there you'd suggest? But, I thought it strange that it'd die just sitting there so I swapped to the cable intended for the planned second head and same problem. I also measured the resistance as suggested in a previous thread that I can't find now, and it indicated it was broken. Any help in getting this printer working would be great, it served great prints for years and I'd like to see this younge maker get some more use out of it.
  4. As the title says, I'm giving my UMO with the ultimaker heated bed to a young maker, but in getting ready I noticed the original thermocouple is not working after sitting for a year. I measured the ohms, and it's dead Jim, not registering a temperature any more. Not sure about the daugterboard on the original hotend but I assume it works as I'd printed something before putting it away. Ultimaker doesn't sell the original thermocouple anymore, would somebody know of an easy way to get the printer running again, with a link to where I can order a new sensor? I've looked through earlier posts,
  5. i made something like that myself, but the inside plastic piece wore out and i replaced them with something like http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:54075
  6. just make sure it is oil and not grease, also not WD40! Light mineral oil, sewing machine or razor oil works well. edit: It might be that the rod is bent, sounds odd that one rod slides well and the other not.
  7. not saying this is your fault, but if you're not careful inserting the rod the linear bearing can be damaged. could be the case that there was a ball bearing left over from the factory. if things have not improved by now and if you suspect a bad bearing, i would loosen everything, all the belts including short ones, and see how the movement is. if that still shows a lot of friction, remove the entire hot including small rods and try to inspect. once you've looked inside to see if there is any damage, carefully slide a rod through the suspect linear bearing to see how it slides.
  8. Thank you far taking a look Cohen. One data point, as I wrote before and discussed with support, all work I did with machine was unplugged, ran for several weeks, and then failed during a print. just shot gunning the issue now and the wall is becoming a mess!
  9. seems you and i are in a similar situation. we were looking to install about 10 for a project, decided to use my own for a test and now it is disabled.
  10. that's for um to say, but i don't think that solves it. i asked http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/8516-heated-bed-kit-lead-time/?p=80877 for a statement from ultimaker regarding the problem, but was a told few posts later that it wasn't needed. I know the engineers are looking at the idea that some have installed the hbk with the power supply still plugged. i know for sure that was not my case, i'm also sure that the connector was secure because while the picture in the instructions was correct showing the same push type connector, the instructions said turn the screws tight an
  11. yes, the official hbk. i don't think the use case is clear at this point, and until now there's been no real answer from ultimaker as I don't think they've decided if it's faulty install, a failing component, or design issue. some have said that the fail happens if they shut off the ultimaker during print while using the hbk, mine just failed 5 minutes into the print. it stopped printing and the bed started runaway heating. not sure what would have happened if i hadn't been there to notice and turn it off. i would say for now, do two things, make sure the connection of the 2 main leads ha
  12. sounds like the same failure that mine had. others have reported that happened if they've used the switch to turn off the printer while the bed was on. use case: in the middle of the print and something goes wrong, turn the printer off using the switch, pcb fails. mine failed after five minutes after starting the print, print just stopped and the bed started going up in temperature. I'd used it for a few weeks before then with no problem. still no official explanation, nor a notice about not shutting off the machine with the power switch, if that is one of the causes. the bad news is it
  13. for the time and shipping, you might be better off with this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Fisher-Price-ATV-Explorer-980-/281108788387?pt=Pretend_Play_Preschool_US&hash=item417363b4a3
  14. did, new image attached to gallery. a but of a diff, but still there.
  15. When testing models built with a win 64 bit version of OpenScad , I was able to reduce the facet size considerably and still have them render without OpenScad crashing. The cylindar in the image is 15.6mm in diameter. I assumed before that the paths you see in repetier were either due to the model facet size or repetier display, i see now they are due to slicing, even with a minimum $fa or $fn they are still there. There is a difference with the SE slicing though, the facets are distributed around the perimeter of the cylinder. Not done much printing to see the effects, but it does appear
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