Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by fluxline

  1. UMO Original with the Ultimaker Heated bed upgrade kit. Bed still heats fine, it's the orginal hotend sensor that brings up the error when trying to print with Cura, and which seems to be bad when measuring the resistance. Thanks for the help Sander.
  2. Thanks for the option, do you know if the firmware will handle it or will you need to compile your own?
  3. I still use the original PCB, any testing point there you'd suggest? But, I thought it strange that it'd die just sitting there so I swapped to the cable intended for the planned second head and same problem. I also measured the resistance as suggested in a previous thread that I can't find now, and it indicated it was broken. Any help in getting this printer working would be great, it served great prints for years and I'd like to see this younge maker get some more use out of it.
  4. As the title says, I'm giving my UMO with the ultimaker heated bed to a young maker, but in getting ready I noticed the original thermocouple is not working after sitting for a year. I measured the ohms, and it's dead Jim, not registering a temperature any more. Not sure about the daugterboard on the original hotend but I assume it works as I'd printed something before putting it away. Ultimaker doesn't sell the original thermocouple anymore, would somebody know of an easy way to get the printer running again, with a link to where I can order a new sensor? I've looked through earlier posts, but it seems quality sensors are hard to find, and most are suggesting replacing the daughterboard and sensor with another type, not sure f that's the best way to go. Thanks for any help to get this old printer running again.
  5. butter's not so bad if you melt it first, otherwise the butter gobs might fall on the bed and then you have a mess
  6. i made something like that myself, but the inside plastic piece wore out and i replaced them with something like http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:54075
  7. technique for applying oil: drop some on the end of a q-tip, 1 or 2 drops should do, then twirl the q-tip on the end of the oil applicator tip to make sure there are no little fuzzy hairs. run the q-tip back and forth along the rods while printing to lubricate.
  8. put it on a foam rubber mat, at least where the feet are. reduces vibration and sound, not necessary but nicer.
  9. you could try to reduce the polygon count in Zbrush, there are a couple plugins, 150MB is really a lot. or look at meshlab to reduce the stl for printing.
  10. the level of the surface the printer sits on makes no difference to the print quality. i think you could even lay it on it's side and it would still print.
  11. i replaced mine with http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:45236. don't tighten the three bolts too much otherwise you can restrict movement. always thought the one screw on the stock controlling all those functions is too brilliant. adjusting belt tension is great with these.
  12. no, it really seems to be a thing. bird owners actually talk about it ... i read it so it must be true. doesn't matter, i got flu symptoms so decided this must be the cause and i'm selling my printer. takers? jokes to the side, all use a bit of caution. ventilated room is not a bad idea, don't print next to your work space if it's being used 24/7, watch temperatures ...
  13. I agree, lots of bits to fix things. electric bits I need to do. The sliding blocks I have are printed and don't need to pull off a rod to replace a piece. already needed to replace a piece and I was glad I had a spare.
  14. i try to keep some spares of parts, materials, bits and bobs around for ... just in case. my printer is sometimes on the road so i also have a box with a few things in case something goes wrong. a few of the things I have: - spare printed sliding blocks - feeder gears - nuts, bolts, washers - oil - belt tensioners - calibration tools - hex set - teflon insulator gasket - ... what do you keep for emergencies, both in your workshop and on the road?
  15. i would first check with looking at how well the z hop is working, too much play and you'll need values like .25mm to get any noticeable hop. the other is using the pronterface print gui and moving up and down in small steps, check when you reverse direction how much the bed actually moves. if you suspect that it has a lot of play, dismount the motor and remove the lead nut from the bed and give it wiggle when screwed on the lead screw.
  16. in the <file><preferences> menu dialog, change from the basic to the pronterface ui. then hook up the printer to a computer via usb and hit the start print button. that opens a new window
  17. chris is right, if it's because of running out, it's not fun. use a towel to hold the filament, your fingers might get a bit sweaty for color changes on prints it's good fun.
  18. i have my own feeder on the umo so filament goes in easily, if you have a tough time normally inserting filament with the stock one then you might need to practice a bit as long as you have good ends, the join is not noticeable. never tried it on the um2, but with robert's feeder it looks doable.
  19. make sure the end with the last of the material and the new one going in are flat. push them together as it is being fed through, wait. it gets really fun if you have lots of retraction going on.
  20. just because the crevices in it and not being able to put it in the dishwasher, i wouldn't make any cups and things to eat with for my kids. i did make a toothbrush holder for them out of 'natural' pla. it was wet a lot, rinsed, toothpaste spills, ... after about a month it had a coloured stuff in the crevices that was not toothpaste. chucked it out.
  21. i like your 'soundproof' cover, where did you get it?
  22. adding to the list, could be too much play in your lead nut.
  23. i would evaluate the zortrax again. you can only use their filament, only abs i think, and no temperature control. it is a closed system
  24. somehow i think you are misreading something. the 3 springs and screws are the ones that attach the heating element to the aluminium plate. that adjustment will come later. you are only aligning the 4 screws for each linear bearing. as was said, you can move the bed up and down without damaging the motor. insert the lead screw through the lead nut and turn the spindle until the top of the motor is flush with the bottom of the machine and secure the 4 screws. i woud say not to do as it is shown in the picture and hold the bed by the heating element/glass plate assembly. hold it from under the bed and lift from the bottom, push down on the aluminium plate.
  • Create New...