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Posts posted by fluxline

  1. 1 hour ago, SandervG said:


    Ok. What I was going for was if you had an Ultimaker Original which was upgraded with a heated bed or if you bought an Ultimaker Original+? 

    UMO Original with the Ultimaker Heated bed upgrade kit.  Bed still heats fine, it's the orginal hotend sensor that brings up the error when trying to print with Cura, and which seems to be bad when measuring the resistance.  Thanks for the help Sander.

  2. On 12/6/2018 at 4:34 PM, Curven said:


    I'm facing the same kind of problem as you... I found something interesting there: https://e3d-online.com/v6-pt100-sensor-kit

    I did mot try it out yet, but will order it soon... I had a look on the specs of the kit and of the ultimaker 1.5.7 board, it should work. I contacted the resseller who said me the same. (They have no feddback of people having done it, but it should work...)

    Thanks for the option, do you know if the firmware will handle it or will you need to compile your own?

  3. On 12/6/2018 at 5:17 PM, SandervG said:

    Are you sure a cable didn't get loose over time, or during moving? Do you still this small pcb on top of your printhead, in your UMO? (perhaps a picture would rule out any miscommunications). Are you talking about the heater that heats your bed, or the print head? 

    I still use the original PCB, any testing point there you'd suggest? But, I thought it strange that it'd die just sitting there so I swapped to the cable intended for the planned second head and same problem.  I also measured the resistance as suggested in a previous thread that I can't find now, and it indicated it was broken. 


    Any help in getting this printer working would be great, it served great prints for years and I'd like to see this younge maker get some more use out of it.

  4. As the title says, I'm giving my UMO with the ultimaker heated bed to a young maker, but in getting ready I noticed the original thermocouple is not working after sitting for a year.  I measured the ohms, and it's dead Jim, not registering a temperature any more.  Not sure about the daugterboard on the original hotend but I assume it works as I'd printed something before putting it away. Ultimaker doesn't sell the original thermocouple anymore, would somebody know of an easy way to get the printer running again, with a link to where I can order a new sensor?  I've looked through earlier posts, but it seems quality sensors are hard to find, and most are suggesting replacing the daughterboard and sensor with another type, not sure f that's the best way to go. 

    Thanks for any help to get this old printer running again.

  5. technique for applying oil: drop some on the end of a q-tip, 1 or 2 drops should do, then twirl the q-tip on the end of the oil applicator tip to make sure there are no little fuzzy hairs. run the q-tip back and forth along the rods while printing to lubricate.


  6. Hmm. I'd say that being in a pan heated beyond 163°C is a pretty untenable place for a bird to be, and is quite likely to lead to bird deaths. If the bird isn't in the pan then I find it unlikely that it would be close enough for any PTFE vapours from cookware to trouble it. So, I'd say that "unconfirmed" is probably putting it lightly. My suspicions would tend more towards "totally made up". :)


    no, it really seems to be a thing. bird owners actually talk about it ... i read it so it must be true. doesn't matter, i got flu symptoms so decided this must be the cause and i'm selling my printer. takers?

    jokes to the side, all use a bit of caution. ventilated room is not a bad idea, don't print next to your work space if it's being used 24/7, watch temperatures ...


  7. i try to keep some spares of parts, materials, bits and bobs around for ... just in case. my printer is sometimes on the road so i also have a box with a few things in case something goes wrong.

    a few of the things I have:

    - spare printed sliding blocks

    - feeder gears

    - nuts, bolts, washers

    - oil

    - belt tensioners

    - calibration tools

    - hex set

    - teflon insulator gasket

    - ...

    what do you keep for emergencies, both in your workshop and on the road?


  8. i would first check with looking at how well the z hop is working, too much play and you'll need values like .25mm to get any noticeable hop. the other is using the pronterface print gui and moving up and down in small steps, check when you reverse direction how much the bed actually moves.

    if you suspect that it has a lot of play, dismount the motor and remove the lead nut from the bed and give it wiggle when screwed on the lead screw.


  9. just because the crevices in it and not being able to put it in the dishwasher, i wouldn't make any cups and things to eat with for my kids. i did make a toothbrush holder for them out of 'natural' pla. it was wet a lot, rinsed, toothpaste spills, ... after about a month it had a coloured stuff in the crevices that was not toothpaste. chucked it out.


  10. somehow i think you are misreading something. the 3 springs and screws are the ones that attach the heating element to the aluminium plate. that adjustment will come later. you are only aligning the 4 screws for each linear bearing. as was said, you can move the bed up and down without damaging the motor. insert the lead screw through the lead nut and turn the spindle until the top of the motor is flush with the bottom of the machine and secure the 4 screws.

    i woud say not to do as it is shown in the picture and hold the bed by the heating element/glass plate assembly. hold it from under the bed and lift from the bottom, push down on the aluminium plate.


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