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Everything posted by fluxline

  1. did you enable the change at Z plugin? it doesn't disable by itself, even if you close cura.
  2. so, i took a few mm off the tab. if you've not gotten an answer about the lower limit switch, it can be ignored. it is done in software now. i'm still trying to figure out how the stage is binding around 13mm down, causing a jump in the bed. the tab was not the problem. you can hear it as well as the movement gets quieter, like the things are tightening up. i have play in the lead screw nut as well, wobbles around the screw and can be moved up and down on the screw about 1.5mm.
  3. im sure you've already tried this but maybe i needle or piece of wire up the nozzle business end while it's hot? maybe something in there.
  4. the hack that i've started to use with a slice of the pfa bowden tube as the gasket, with about 80-90 hours printing time, printing pla and xt (caveats out of the way), has worked so far. i think it will at least extend the life of the coupler and make the cost of the disposable piece/s much less. not a permanent solution as others are looking for here. but, i don't think you will ever get away from the need to replace those pieces, your mileage will certainly vary. reducing cost and availability is it least an approach. would be interested to hear the results from any others that decide to test.
  5. i don't think that ultimaker is the only manufacturer that is having long lead times, though the reasons might be different for each one. i assume that one common reason is not getting ahead of themselves with hires and then a slump comes. with employment laws, this would be more of a problem in europe than the us. i just wonder what impact this will have on the market long term. for our project (we'll leave out the committee stuff that decided decisions could slide when the target date could not), we had planned to purchase 10 printers for a 3 month print job, part of the reason for purchasing was just gaining experience in large prints, and promotion for other projects that are in the pipeline for other customers. with the long lead times, we'll not be able to purchase enough printers to complete on time and so will be going with a service. the rep i spoke with said they are just swamped with orders and in a large part it is from people that had similar problems to ours, were frustrated by the lead time and looked for alternatives. if people that are looking to buy printers find that a service can provide them what they need; no learning, no waiting, latest technology, material choice, ...; a printer at home/office might just remain a niche business.
  6. Wow, hero! never has a little gasket been so proud. In my opinion, I don't think the teflon issues will go away. it's a part under both temperature and mechanical stresses and will need to be replaced. i would prefer to have a teflon insert that is more resistance to mechanical wear and use something cheap like this for thermal protection as a disposable. i think if you give it a try, make sure the internal diameter matches the teflon insert and brass tubing. since the pfa is a little deformable under temperature load, the internal diameter is going to depend a bit on how much you tighten down the thumb screws.
  7. thanks for the summary Evan. one of the issues, i believe, that the glass impregnated teflon insulator has is mechanical wear from the filament. how does the vespel compare?
  8. not read the whole thread to see if you already tried this, but a bit of http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/9107-deformed-teflon-fix-use-a-bit-of-bowden/?p=87788 but i think you are trying to isolate the hot from the cold zone a bit better?
  9. i believe they are just PFA material, teflon, that even under pressure can resist up to around 260C. In the original hot end there was no teflon piece, the bowden was inserted directly into the peek against the brass tube coming up through the alu block.
  10. looks just like when i put it in, except for a little indentation where it mated to the brass. just make sure that it is slightly larger than the amount of teflon insert removed, so that it is pressed together when putting the hot end assembly back together.
  11. i posted this last month on google groups when in testing, but i thought i'd post here now that i've run with it for a bit. i've only tested this on an UMO, someone else may want to test it on the 2. it seems there are 2 issues with the teflon inserts: UM2: the new glass impregnated one for the um2 which after time has wear from the rubbing of the filament, forming a groove in the side wall of the teflon. UMO: the orignal non-impregnated teflon piece that came with v2 hotend upgrade, which has heat degradation around the entire base where it meets the brass inside the peek. i have printed xt, and similar to abs, it appears over time the heat can degrade the teflon at that brass interface. Issue with umo teflon insert is what i was trying to fix and as we all know, necessity is the mother of invention and my teflon insert needed fixing over the holidays. what i've done to fix the degraded teflon end: i shaved off the bit of deformed teflon insert and then sanded with fine grit to make flat. I think i took off around 1mm, but hard to tell what the original was but this was the measurement from the inside of the peek where it sits. i bored out the inside of some old pfa bowden tube using a 4.5mm bit. sliced off a 1mm section of that tube and that is the gasket. i inserted that into the peek. and then re-assembled the hot end as normal with the teflon insert sitting inside the peek, on top of the bowden gasket. i then heated the hotend without filament and let cool. checked the thumbscrews again and made sure all was secure. inserted filament and printed. i've printed around 60 hours now in total, including about 30 with colorfabb xt at between 240-247C with no problem just took the ahead apart to inspect and the bit a bowden is still good, clean, not smashed. i can post some pictures if needed, but it just like a normal clean peek and a sliced piece of bowden. hopefully this is useful for someone stuck as i was ... or maybe as a way to increase the life of those disposable teflon pieces.
  12. are you using the basic printer window or the pronterface one? I've always needed to set the temperature for both the bed and nozzle using pronterface, never used the basic window when using cura.
  13. I posted this on um groups and discussed with few people, but nobody yet with any real experience. we have a lot to print and wall detail is not an issue so we would like to print using a 6mm nozzle but are limited to systems with 1.75mm filament. .Will use a 3 mm layer height and print around 50mm/s using colorfabb XT. Even if we change a few parameters around, we are still looking at printing between 7-10 mm3/s. My questions: 1. I've always limited XT to about 5mm3/s, not much success past that flow rate. Raising the temperature to 260 or more is not really an option. What is your best flow rate with XT? 2. What is the max flow rate for 1.75mm filament, and any limitations on using larger nozzles? retraction will be minimal. thanks for any help
  14. just make sure it is oil and not grease, also not WD40! Light mineral oil, sewing machine or razor oil works well. edit: It might be that the rod is bent, sounds odd that one rod slides well and the other not.
  15. not saying this is your fault, but if you're not careful inserting the rod the linear bearing can be damaged. could be the case that there was a ball bearing left over from the factory. if things have not improved by now and if you suspect a bad bearing, i would loosen everything, all the belts including short ones, and see how the movement is. if that still shows a lot of friction, remove the entire hot including small rods and try to inspect. once you've looked inside to see if there is any damage, carefully slide a rod through the suspect linear bearing to see how it slides.
  16. i think the different holes just give you flexibility to place depending on such things as dual heads and such, but as long as the heater and thermocouple fit without strain it is up to you where you place them. the rotation of the heater block should not matter as long as it stays consistent. it is held in place by the pressure applied with the 4 thumb screws at the top of the hot end. make sure that the heater block does not rotate. you could always just reseat by loosening the 4 thumb screws, align the heater block, and then lightly tighten again.
  17. a great http://www.extrudable.me/2013/04/18/exploring-extrusion-variability-and-limits/ by illuminarti discussing extrusion and under extrusion, one of the indicators to look for are the teeth marks in the filament. a great read.
  18. Thank you far taking a look Cohen. One data point, as I wrote before and discussed with support, all work I did with machine was unplugged, ran for several weeks, and then failed during a print. just shot gunning the issue now and the wall is becoming a mess!
  19. seems you and i are in a similar situation. we were looking to install about 10 for a project, decided to use my own for a test and now it is disabled.
  20. that's for um to say, but i don't think that solves it. i asked http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/8516-heated-bed-kit-lead-time/?p=80877 for a statement from ultimaker regarding the problem, but was a told few posts later that it wasn't needed. I know the engineers are looking at the idea that some have installed the hbk with the power supply still plugged. i know for sure that was not my case, i'm also sure that the connector was secure because while the picture in the instructions was correct showing the same push type connector, the instructions said turn the screws tight and i spent some time making sure the connection was secure. in short, not sure what the problem is or what the fix/prevention is. hopefully we hear something soon and i would say at this point, do not print unattended with the official hbk. edit: one thing though, do you still have the old power supply still plugged in somehow? the hbk comes with a power supply that supplies power also to the arduino with a short patch cord.
  21. yes, the official hbk. i don't think the use case is clear at this point, and until now there's been no real answer from ultimaker as I don't think they've decided if it's faulty install, a failing component, or design issue. some have said that the fail happens if they shut off the ultimaker during print while using the hbk, mine just failed 5 minutes into the print. it stopped printing and the bed started runaway heating. not sure what would have happened if i hadn't been there to notice and turn it off. i would say for now, do two things, make sure the connection of the 2 main leads have a good contact at the push on connector, and do not shut off the printer while the hbk is still heating. use whatever ui you'are using to control the print to shut off the hbk before stopping. But, and a big but, I'm not sure if just setting the temp to zero actually solves the problem. voltage should be off, but ...
  22. sounds like the same failure that mine had. others have reported that happened if they've used the switch to turn off the printer while the bed was on. use case: in the middle of the print and something goes wrong, turn the printer off using the switch, pcb fails. mine failed after five minutes after starting the print, print just stopped and the bed started going up in temperature. I'd used it for a few weeks before then with no problem. still no official explanation, nor a notice about not shutting off the machine with the power switch, if that is one of the causes. the bad news is it might take a while for a replacement, the hbk is out of stock. I've asked in another thread if catching up with sending out orders for full kits will have priority over replacements, but i still haven't had a reply. sorry that your start has had some bumps, i know it can be disappointing.
  23. Thank you for letting us know that you're working on getting us the info Sander. Will that also include spare parts and parts to solve support tickets?
  24. too hard to pull can also mean deformed teflon insulator in the hot end. the part inside the PEEK touching the brass extender can get deformed if you've printed things like ABS or XT. filament starts to get in and trying to pull out the filament during clean takes a lot of force. it might also be the cause of the op's problem.
  25. innovation! did you change the nozzle size in cura, that might fix your underextrusion. it's in the advanced tab.
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