fluxline
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Posts posted by fluxline
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if this is the object your printing:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:437382
i think splitting the print might be a bit overkill. and getting it back together in one piece might be more trouble than worth. have you tried printing with support enabled? since it is horizontally symmetrical, you'll need to select everywhere. might not be the best looking on the inside, but with a little cleanup ...
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Glass has lots of irregularities and is not smooth as it appears to our eye. Even in the pharma industry, there are issues with glass flakes/divets getting into the solution, depending on solution type and shocks to the packaging.
The glass is going to degrade over time, just as posted in the link before. Use something like glue or hairspray as a coating, or keep a good supply of glass plates around.
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First I'd check if the model is good using X-ray, look for any red triangles. Something looks not right with the normals in that picture.
The other option is to make your cylinder solid, and then in the expert settings choose if you want a top or bottom as well, set fill % to 0, then pick your wall size. You can pick anything, down to .4mm.
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will you also be sending out replacement parts or will complete kits have priority? I would appreciate an ETA for service ticket GZJ-609-94093. thx
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ya, me too at the beginning, without it already installed. but i went down the path of making sure the frame and z rods were square. might still do that if over time with humidity and flexing it starts to run again.
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point above about model being correct is the first priority, but you can look at meshlab and some of the filters there. i've had some success with that doing a per face quality function and then selection for faces of lower quality, it can find hidden faces. I know this is not actually what your looking for with side by side faces, maybe give it a shot.
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final solution, slight shimming with .05 mm and pulling bed towards front of machine when aligning and tightening of linear bearings. gives a tight .1 mm between tab and back of frame.
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For anybody looking to solve the same issue in the future, the tolerance is tight and probably dependent on variance on the plates and assembly.
I loosened all the frame screws, set screws on the log belts, rod fixation on the sliding blocks, and mounting bolts on the linear bearings holding them to the alu plate. I then flexed the frame, which made some popping and creaking noises as it loosened up. I then checked with a square that all was aligned as before. Lightly re-tightened the screws on the frame, working from the inside out. There is still not enough space to get a .05 feeler gauge through.
My next step would be to put some .1mm shims between the back plate and the top/bottom plates to make more space there. If anybody can think of why this would be a bad idea, please let me know.
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while waiting for support to get back to me about a few issues with the hbu, i took another look at one of them myself, bed does not move smoothly. at the back right of the aluminum plate, there is a tab with an unused tapped bolt hole. it is close enough to the back of the UM frame that I cannot get a .05 mm feeler gauge between them, very tight and rubbing. any body else have the same issue and found a solution?
thx
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Thanks for reminding me of this, shows me something I need to do. I have my own extruder with a different gear ratio and enter my own eSteps. When Illuminati posted his back pressure and flow piece, I tested the calibration at higher and slower feed rate and got no difference. Now I see with no loading it would be the same. I'll have to test that again to come up with a good value at both high and low flow.
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Thanks Didier, I did take your advice and sent him a pm yesterday afternoon. Sander still hasn't read it yet, hopefully he'll have a chance to get to it today.
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Ah well, too late. already did it here and don't want him thinking i'm shotgunning him.
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Hello Sander
May I please get an update on when Ultimaker is expecting to replace the pcb for my heated bed upgrade in support ticket GZJ-609-94093? Will it be before the end of the year?
Thank you
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Hello Sander
Apology accepted. But, not offended, more disappointed.
In my opinion I was relaying status information I received from support to a current thread that was discussing lead times. A subject that is also of interest to me due to a current project.
I agree we all have fumble fingers or don't read man pages well enough. I think in this instance I was careful and was sure of the outcome. But who knows.
The deviations in the man were the different colour wires and the different mains connector type attaching the wires to the pcb, the picture is correct but the text was not. It is not screwed, it is a push type. Remembering that difference, I know the connection was secure.
So, to make sure that support is working with the correct information, do they believe it was damaged in installation? I never said that and that was never part of our troubleshooting.
Thanks
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... And just to add, I think words like 'claims' which implies I'm making a false statement, and suggesting a customer should not make comments on the forums, as well implying they are unable to perform a careful installation of an assembly sold to be installed by a customer, does not make good customer relations.
I put in a support request to check if something was correct on a product I had just purchased and installed, and while waiting for feedback had a new failure, that is all. Please treat us with respect when we post about issues on the forums.
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Hello Sander, thanks of for the update. Maybe we've identified one reason things are taking a bit long. I put it in a support request on Nov 14 with the following issues for a heated bed upgrade I had purchased and installed:
1. clicking noise from bed bearings when bed moves up
2. when moving bed up and down, there is a click from the lead screw moving on lead nut. there is sometimes a bang from the nut when the bed initiates a home move (not shown in video, just a symptom).
3. there is a cycle noise when the motor moves the bed up.
There was nothing about the pcb getting damaged during installation.
Because the bed still worked, only some strange noises when running, I sent a video to get things clarified, with supports response being that they would look into it. While still waiting for a response, including a few calls to support to check, I did some small print jobs. As stated above, 5 minutes into the last print the printer stopped and the bed started heating up.
I only assumed that if there is a delay in pcb deliveries, there would also be a delay in heated beds. Unless of course you are still planning on sending out pcb rev 1.1 that some customers are having trouble with and not a redesign. Maybe it's just a faulty component that has been identified and no redesign is needed, i wouldn't know because I've not heard back from support on what the problems are or when they will be corrected.
I hope that clarifies things, at least from point. If you or support needs further info, please let me know.
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there is in fact a shipping delay due to a new batch of boards being ordered, it is unknown when they will be delivered. hopefully more info today. this is directly from sales/support in a support phone call today.
there is an issue with some boards failing, causing runaway heating on the heated bed. an http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/7974-heated-bed-short-circuit/ mention using the power switch to shut off the printer during a print might have caused the failure. Mine failed 5 minutes into the print, the printer just stopped and the bed started heating. If I just plug the printer in now the bed starts heating.
I really think that UM should make a statement about this, at least a warning about leaving the printer running unattended.
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just to update, this not only happens with switching off the power supply. started a new print and after 5 minutes the printer just stopped, not sure why. after that the heated bed would not shut off and the temp just kept rising.
responding to this thread jinxed me!
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just to be safe, I would check both the tension and pulley screws on your x and y axis. Also the motor mounts to make sure they are tight. i know in one step of the heated bed install you had to loosen the motor, i suspect that is where things changed.
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a picture of a leaning print might help to diagnose the problem if it turns out not to be the bed level
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have you used the bed level wizard in cura and printed the test pattern at the end?
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or just print one with abs, small enough even to print with tape.
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you could always use downloaded pronterface, not the one supplied, and a use the the buttons there to turn off motors and heaters.
Delivery and Order Issues - Poor Support & Service
in Buying or selling your UltiMaker
Posted
i will add to this that a great product only goes so far, if support isn't there then long term the company will suffer and people will go elsewhere. and i don't mean the ultimaker support people, they've been great and helpful (chris has been very helpful, give her a christmas bonus), more support by management and communication is needed when a crises hits. yes, sometimes customers need there hand held. problems happen, we understand, but just drop ins with were getting it sorted as best we can, and soon... that only goes so far. suggestions by moderators to send pms and not read for a week and then not even a reply. you're busy i'm sure, but not that busy. delegate?
sod4111 said it right, if it's longer than it's longer, just give a best estimate so we can plan as well or make other arrangements.
thanks