fluxline

just to add some other details: - you can have two instances of cura install, no need to deinstall 12.08 to run 12.10. Then you still have printrun - the last precompiled version of printrun is from march so i believe nothing has changed. If you want the latest release, https://github.com/kliment/Printrun i think they added a web interface, then you need a bit more work and add 5 or 6 other packages. there is the possibility that something has changed and something unexpected happens.

I agree that the second picture shows that the infill not meeting the wall looks like a belt backlash problem. The first picture shows that the cube on top of the 'L' shaped piece looks like it is stacked rather than the walls being flush. If that is the problem you are describing, it almost looks like the original model has that in it, maybe the outside walls are not seen as one surface but two distinct ones. Maybe the top of one does not match the bottom of the other? How does it look when you slice at look at the path, does it show a separation or flat surface? What are you using to slice it?

and this if you don't want to drill a hole in the frame. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:32372

just a guess, but if the object has little fill with thin walls, skeinforge puts a solid layer down when it thinks it needs extra support inside. maybe at those layers you are getting more shrinking thus creating the narrower layer. as i said, just a guess. maybe try increasing the wall thickness and fill.

i hope your not spraying the mist with the glass still in the UM, I think in the long run that could start to gum things up with all the aerosols. I've also printed small, and even large but thin objects using hairspray on a cold glass with PLA. Works great, and lifts great. It's best for the thin objects to leave the fan off for the whole print.

Sorry for the late reply, spam fog. It will only change it for that model when you print it. Settings in the menu also has a feedrate of 300 (i think), but it is best to use cura to calibrate for the filament you want to use and keep a list of filamant values that you can replace in the gcode for a model. You can always tweek the number a bit, plus/minus 10?, for what works. I hopes we get a way to store these and use for a print in the next release of Cura. Also, positioning on the print bed at print time. Poor Daid, makes a great product and then people just want more and more ..........

Fiddling while Rome burns

or, once you've loaded the model in printrun, go to the file menu and select edit. Change the second line with the M92 Exxxxx with the xxxxx being the value you want.

A dual rail track and an arm using linear motors on a system about a meter in length is what I dream of. Perhaps just a bit a bit pricey and a little overkill for the rates plastic can be extruded but accuracy and speed improvements would be huge ... and quiet.

This is supposed to be a community, one it seems you are responsible for maintaining with the partial help of volunteers that give their time on an availability basis. Open source/hardware has a habit of discussing things publicly, get used to it. That community has struggled off and on with technical problems that are solvable, and are now causing the community to move to other places. Mr Baloche, if you are responsible for these forums, IMHO a) it is astounding that the above quote is your first post, and b) you are failing in at least one of your responsibilities, I hope your other areas are not dealing with product but are limited to counting beans.

... And your English is excellent, no need to worry about that anymore either.

I think any time you adjust the tension or the alignment of the axis you need to loosen the pulleys, other wise your print will mess up. I wouldn't worry, just loosen the pulleys now, adjust tension and axis and move on. IMHO, I don't rally like the adjusters that sit on the belts, prefer the ones on the block.

Any chance that you will put in place a better new user authentication mech soon? This is getting far worse and difficult to look through active posts, and you're correct ... cleaning is not the answer. Either that, or add a few more mods to keep up. I think if it continues much longer, you're going to start losing people back to google.

I'm hoping that at some point we will be able to apend the file name with preselected options such as date, layer height, temperature, ... basically a common set fo variables from what was used to slice the model. And while I'm at it my 2 main requests that printrun does not make easy: - a dropdown selection of printing material that the user has stored with things such as temp and steps/e - move the position on the bed where the model prints, I am lazy and don't want to keep slicing for a different position and too ... unsure to move the coordinate system 0 position.

I've made some modifications to Chopmeister's great feeder that he designed. His design uses Bertho's equally great filament variable pressure systems. . I have to say it again, chopmeister did a great piece of work with this and I really appreciate his efforts. I had one major reason for wanting to replace the entire wooded unit besides Bertho's mechinism, mainly the wood retaining the bearings at the back (system reference) was chipping and there was significant wearing of the wood where the filament ran along the wood side. I also noticed that the delrin slide block was worn down forming a V with the wood block making the rubbing on the wood worse. I think this was originally a problem from the ID of my PEEK being too small, constricting the Bowden tube, requiring more force to drive the filament through the head. I know that UM have their new feeder, but I was already working on this when that came out. I had sent them pictures of the chipping but I think their opinion was it was due to my crap paint job. And their right, it is a crap job, but I don’t think that was the problem. I think long term, wood and rubbing is not a good mix. The changes that I’ve made are … so far: 1. Was difficult to source a long enough bolt (> M4 50mm) to retain the spring, this design uses a 40mm screw and would even work with a 30mm if you have a short, strong spring. I’ve also added recesses to both ends of the spring mounts so they don’t slide around. 2. Thickened the walls of the spring holder, reducing flex makes it slide along the idlers better. 3. Reversed the bolt so that the head is in the idler and the open end is at the knob, like Bertho’s design. The original limited adjustment and made it difficult to know how far you could back off the knob. 4. The original bearings from the stock feeder are used instead of the skate bearings which are too wide for the V2 hobbled bolt. Chopmeister kindly created some inserts but they were difficult to align and were too far back causing rubbing when inserting or removing of the filament. 5. I’ve added a lever to the spring assembly that makes it easier to hold and close the latch of the spring assembly. 6. Modified for a matching feeder clamp, http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:17027 , instead of the original quick release. I’ve also expanded the entry for the filament like a cone to make inserting filament easier. I will put a copy of it up on verse as a low priority but if there is interest I can put it up earlier.

not to rain but, my UM is starting to look more and more that it's made of plastic so not very impressed. I think they should make more use of the system their selling and give a bom (sell the non printable parts) and stl for bits we can print ourselves ... use the technology.

Meshlab http://meshlab.sourceforge.net/ is a tool for editing 3D meshes. When you import an stl into a project, it will cleanup duplicated vertices as a default. There are some other filters you can use to remove duplicated faces, zero area faces, and other cleanup scripts. You can also use netfabb http://cloud.netfabb.com/, which I find easier with things like reversed normals. Make a search on youtube and google for a few tutorials about what might help a particular model your working with.

I'm using an old (6 years ?) Samsung Q1, with less than a gig of memory, wirelessly connected to a NAS that holds the gcode files generated on the workstation . Currently I run pronterface supplied with cura on both linux and xp with it. Things that help are making sure the models are cleaned with meshlab; for more complicated models, minimizing the client once the print starts solves any other slowdown problems. You might get some sputtering if you bring up the UI again to adjust temp or anything else, but usually not a problem. Here's hoping that a future version of cura will have buttons a little bigger for my fingers to use with the touch screen. Having the touchscreen there really makes bed levelling and such easier.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:28561 is the one with the wedge I just happen to be working on cooling, warping, slower fan speed on larger prints, and of course fan shouds for the v2 hotend. Using http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:21182 with 2mm of tubing between the shroud and alu plate, as well as some tape wrapped around the end to redirect the airflow away from the nozzle. Any other ideas for a shroud on the v2 hotend?

The description and reaction: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:32084 An demo video: The discussion on usenet for those that don't follow there: https://groups.google.com/forum/?fromgroups=#!topic/ultimaker/GJxz_qzeZHo Looks impressive, sounds ... quiet. Whats the word from the profis for us laymen?

Just in case somebody is looking for a smoother alternative to the orange skin of the standard 2090 tape, the 2080 is supposed to be for 'delicate surfaces' and has a much smoother printing surface. I've had a play with the 2080 and it works well, as long as the print is not too large. Others with more experiance might have better luck on larger prints with this than I. A link: http://www.scotchblue.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Scotch-BlueBrand/Scotch-Blue/Products/Catalog/~/ScotchBlue-Painter-s-Tape-Delicate-Surface-with-Edge-Lock-2080EL?N=5941785&rt=rud The description mentions some orange branding on the tape, but mine is just blue.

when does the UM 'stand' become a product?

Thanks Daid. Damn computers, when they become sentient they will have the darkest sense of humor.

I have the same thing described here, http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?154,101077,101077, some layers have a mix of infill and solid layer and it only occurs an area of about 20 layers. I don't think it is just a bad stl because it is just a diff of 2 cubes using openscad and it's not near any edges, that I know of anyway. I assume that it is from skeinforge's diaphragm function is it where the diff is at it's greatest volume, with an infill of 10%. Does Cura use diaphragm layers, and if so how does it decide when to and can we control it?

I put together the H3 and IMHO chopmeister has done a great job, thx. I added the Feeder Clamp so I could keep the original feeder in one piece, http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:17027, that needed a bit of a carve to open up the end a bit for better filament adding. The body pieces also need a few changes for countersinks, chopmeister is on it. It does work with the original V3 bolt, but the filament rides on the side of the knurling a bit. I think this is actually a benefit because with the bearings, it doesn't need to bite so hard into the filament and doesn't chew at all. Spring needs to be very robust and the length of the bolt needs to match. I put together some spring caps in openscad, they are parameterized so if anybody is interested I'll publish them on thingiverse. Here is a short video showing it running on a retraction test, the color is fugly but I was sent and even tighter bowden replacement and the only color that fits is grey at the moment. Chopmeister really did a great job with this, many small details you don't notice until putting it together. Thanks again.