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Everything posted by fluxline

  1. There is also chopmeister's, it had a few more features I prefered over bertho's great design, I think chopmeister used the concept in his design. I'm also just putting it together so I know in a bit ... http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:27626
  2. So while rebuilding the head I clearly saw that the bowden tube extended too far down. I think in the instructions online ( http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Hot_end_v2 ) on step 30, while pulling down the teflon insert the bowden must have slipped down. The force exerted by the bowden was enough to keep the hotend not fixed against the housing and keep it from rotating. Still not sure why that step is important, don't even see the need. I received a new bowden tube with the new hotend and unfortunately, when I first assembled the whole thing I just went ahead and started calibrating, including steps/e. Ran the filament up to the end of the quick release and then used cura to calibrate. After calibrating steps/e I always use printrun to advance the filament to the hotend so it all has the same compression from the feeder mechanism. I did not notice that the bowden is too narrow, very difficult to move filament through by hand. Tested the same filament with the old bowden and it slides through, even when bent. The combination of the two problems has given me three days of non-stop chewed filament.
  3. Yes I know, the portion between the 8mm knurling and the 4mm space towards the threads is not exact and might not be consistent between all bolts. So I just tried to take the measurements of the components and then the overall length. You're correct; I should have pointed that out.
  4. That's two posts I borked yesterday, too tired I guess. alaris is correct, I'm talking about the official UM v2 hotend. On my parts the thickness of the widest part, the retainer, is thicker than the indentation at the top of the peek. So the only contact for the whole hot portion (brass/alu/peek) to keep it from rotating is the Teflon part. I don't think the nozzle hole is in exact alignment with the axis of the hotend due to the gap between the alum block and wood on the front right corner and the other 3 corners making contact. Yesterday I wrote that I had not seen a problem during printing, but now I have. It can rotate a bit when printing, moving it by hand is easy. I've had a few places where, I think due to changing filament diameter, there is over extrusion and the tip hit when going over the section again, rotating the hotend just a bit. This is just my theory at the moment for what I'm seeing from either it wrongly installed or a part that is not tolerant.
  5. scratch that, 5mm for the bearing. sorry :oops: Spending so much time with grinding filament i didn't check the number I wrote. sorry again. The groove is 1.12mm deep ... double checked.
  6. So I've installed the V3 hotend and have had not stop grinding of filament. A couple things I've noticed are a) the entire hotend, brass/aluminium block/PEEK rotates easily by hand. Does not seem to move when printing but it freely rotates of you twist by hand. Is this supposed to be this way? The four head bolts are snug and there are no big gaps, there is one at the front right corner like before but in measuring the 'head' of the PEEK is higher than the stubs on the alum block so it must be have a little gap. I've also not iced that when you push filament through the Bowden tube and into the head, when it reaches the Teflon part there is a little more resistance to pushing the filament, not great but definitely noticeable. Is this normal compression on the Bowden tube from the Teflon part?
  7. Thanks for checking and knocking up the nice drawings. I'm willing to give it a go, the way my rig is chewing through filament I just hope I can get the parts printed. But that's another post ... maybe, right now it's just lots of baby sitting. Before starting though, we are assuming the stock bearings from your rev and mine are the same, width of mine is 3mm, assume yours as well? Any chance you could either pass me the specifications of the additional parts if you already have them? Otherwise I give it a go myself. Thanks again for all the help.
  8. What can I say, the developer himself. Couldn't ask for a better source for an answer. Here are the v3 bolt dimensions in case anybody else ever looks, I've also PM'd you. Thanks again
  9. I am curious if anybody else has added the H3 to their system? I think chopmeister did a great job and the deseign looks sound but I have a few questions before ordering parts. - I think it was asked before but I assume the V3 bolt should work as is? - The small gear on the motor needs replacing to match the new large gear. On the rev3 UM, at least on my system, the gear seems glued to the shaft and not easy to remove. Any suggestions beside printing another before I start and hope the H3 works. - The spring and bolt: seems the spring needs to be very strong and the m4 bolt about 40-45mm. I'm not sure with this and a little more info would be helpful. Thx for any advice before starting with this.
  10. I know you said you checked the belts, but to me it looks like the short belt is really loose. Try loosening the motor mount screws and really push down on the motor and tighten the screws while still pushing. those things should twang when you pluck them otherwise the belt skips over the teeth when it rotates.
  11. Ya, I did and it also helped, if only to reduce the heat and wear. I think they were at 12 o'clock when I got it, maybe the standard setting from the factory. The thing I posted reduced/changed the drumming sound a bit. Not sure I would install them unless you the noise really bothers you and your looking for every little bit, or just like modding the UM. Motor mount screws need to be re-tighted a few times, but that was also the case with the original.
  12. This probably screws my warranty but here goes for the easy fix without tapping new ones: 1. some PVA glue on a small brush, put it in the stripped hole, just a tiny amount 2. some machine oil on a bolt to match and run it slowly in the hole 3. let it dry a bit, slowly unthread screw, let dry a bit more and your good. edit: just a very small amount of glue, very small. a lamp helps it to dry. I was lucky it wasn't on my z axis, don't think it would take many uses.
  13. @sander I also had two switches with stripped holes, and I am sure they were when I received them because I checked before install. Not difficult to solve so didn't bother support. But, I think there is a problem in your line or supplier that you might want to hunt down the root cause.
  14. you're right, even though I thought I was managing this little variable. Maybe the setting is not taken from another instance of Cura? Don't know. Seems then setting joris on a large curvy model is not for weaker systems with a USB interface... makes sense.
  15. so, I think I've found what it is but have not tested it in a print yet. if .1 is used as the layer height then the 'extra' z movements are there, setting it to as low as .101 and the number of instructions are about the same as the original but with out the z-axis movement. will test the print and update.
  16. maybe interesting, when i slice with kisslicer I do not get the minor changes but there are just as many lines of instruction as the skeinforge slice, but with x/y movement but exactly the same entries in z and f. example: G1 X109.12 Y119.36 Z33.92 F2267.7 G1 X108.39 Y119.69 Z33.92 F2267.7 G1 X107.72 Y119.96 Z33.92 F2267.7 G1 X106.89 Y120.27 Z33.92 F2267.7 G1 X105.44 Y120.7 Z33.92 F2267.7 G1 X104.21 Y120.98 Z33.92 F2267.7 G1 X103.25 Y121.15 Z33.92 F2267.7 G1 X101.73 Y121.33 Z33.92 F2267.7 G1 X100.5 Y121.39 Z33.92 F2267.7 G1 X99.01 Y121.37 Z33.92 F2267.7 G1 X97.61 Y121.26 Z33.92 F2267.7 G1 X97.43 Y121.26 Z33.92 F2267.7 G1 X96.29 Y121.07 Z33.92 F2267.7 G1 X95.35 Y120.89 Z33.92 F2267.7 G1 X94.72 Y120.73 Z33.92 F2267.7 G1 X94.42 Y120.68 Z33.92 F2267.7 G1 X94.15 Y120.58 Z33.92 F2267.7
  17. I have been having trouble with printing larger models with curves causing the printer to stutter during the print of the wall. I think earlier it was called hickups and was diagnosed as buffer issues. I'm sure that is the problem and I think the source can be linked back to the model complexity. But, after taking the model through Meshlab and simplifying it, I still get the same issue. When looking at the gcode, one thing I noticed is in the outer wall section there is a many minor changes in the z instruction within the same section. Example: ;TYPE:WALL-OUTER G1 X80.011 Y80.697 Z63.7 F9000.0 G1 X81.406 Y79.35 Z63.701 F3600.0 E0.0116 G1 X82.892 Y78.103 Z63.702 E0.0232 G1 X84.461 Y76.963 Z63.703 E0.0348 G1 X86.106 Y75.935 Z63.704 E0.0463 G1 X87.819 Y75.024 Z63.706 E0.0579 G1 X89.591 Y74.235 Z63.707 E0.0695 G1 X91.413 Y73.572 Z63.708 E0.0811 G1 X93.278 Y73.037 Z63.709 E0.0927 G1 X95.175 Y72.634 Z63.71 E0.1043 G1 X97.095 Y72.364 Z63.711 E0.1159 G1 X99.03 Y72.229 Z63.712 E0.1274 G1 X100.97 Y72.229 Z63.713 E0.139 this fills the whole outer wall and that is exactly were i have the stutters. I know nothing about gcode generation so it might be normal but I don't see that any models that run correctly. Is that necessary? I can't see the system needing (or even making) those changes so why are they generated. Using openscad to build the model and Cura 12.08 to slice it so skeinforge is the culprit but hoping somebody can help me figure out if needed, and if not how to not have them generated. thx for any help.
  18. lol, you forgot the part about fixing your broken arm yourself.
  19. I gave Sculptris a try, exporting as obj, importing in meshlab as obj, export as stl and then popped it into Cura. Worked, slicing took a while. But Daid is right, the UI looks good just have to see if I need anything that uses it's capabilities.
  20. Are you sure this is not leaking? My leaks were usually dark brown/black, I think PLA once it sits around a bit, as in a leak, burns a little.
  21. I wold like to use solidworks myself, but for a single license price of US 4000 I have to look elsewhere. I've not really found what I like yet either, openscad for now I guess.
  22. I will try to start the ball rolling, maybe others with more experiance will add better knowledge. I think the first question that came to my mind is, 'will it be implanted?' I'm going to assume not. if it is, that brings a whole lot of other questions beyond can it be printed. I think that the models would need changing to print, otherwise a lot of cleanup which would be needed and I'm not sure what the impact would be on an implanted, cleaned up model.
  23. good point about the angle, i usually print smallish parts at the moment and usually stick it toward the front to keep away from the bowden bends. i just wish printrun had a way to set the position on the bed at print time rather than going back and generating gcode again, but computer would need to be strong for that.
  24. I would just add to the list, just things I've tried that have both worked ... and not. - with the 2 layers of blue tape, wipe down the first layer with acetone/alcohol and let dry before putting on the second layer. also, make sure that whatever you wipe down with is not from your wife/girlfriends stash, both often have some oils in them. - put the layer that the fan turns on at layer 2 or 3 instead of 1. I actually pointed a halogen light at the print while printing and then turned it off after about 10 layers. others with more experience might comment on if this actually helped or not but i got my print and cold have been just luck.
  25. hey look, Ive invented scouring pads! somedays you just need to find a positive side to complete failure :lol:
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