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Everything posted by fuchs

  1. I am selling an assembled Ultimaker (Ultimaker One) for VB 1099€ (without shipping). (NOTE: It is assembled by me and was a Kit, as the Kit was the only available version in mid-2012! Pre-assembled started shipping 12/2012) I bought it in July 2012 and it was shipped to me in August 2012. My modifications to it are: - (self printed) Belt tensioners from Thingiverse - (self printed) Printbed Height Adjustment from Thingiverse - (self printed) Berthos Ultimaker Extruder Drive Upgrade from Thingiverse - Extruder Upgrade Kit V2 I used it to learn quite a lot about CAD and 3D Modelling but
  2. And next version, the default model will be a Creeper instead of the Ultimaker-Bot? :-P
  3. Just installed Cura 13.03 - and it has a Minecraft Import? :smile: Since when? Didn't read about it anywhere... *g* Oh, you.... :-P
  4. Thanks MSURunner - I just did that and the ugly yellowish spots on the display vanished in an instant. Great! It really did only take a very small amount of change on the potentiometer on the backside of the Ulticontroller. ^^ Excellent, Case closed :cool:
  5. Hello, today I used the Ultimaker again after a few weeks of hiatus. I immediately noticed that the LCD on the Ulticontroller got some strange dis-coloration now. See Picture: Anybody seen something like that before?
  6. It ends (at my machine) around 15mm under the hole, yes.
  7. This all sounds as the nozzle or the hotend is somehow obstructed. That would lead to pressure building up that pushes the bowden tube back and out - and it will also lead to much too few material pushed out of the nozzle, making the whole print very fragile. Is that PLA from Ultimaker that came with the machine? That one is usually _very_ reliable and unproblematic. But 3rd party PLA (especially very cheap one) tends to have impurities that quickly obstruct the hotend... So check the nozzle/hotend if there is something (apart from PLA) that got in there.
  8. Mhh, just a wild guess but also check the coupler for the Z-Axis (that barrel with the 2 grub screws). Maybe the Z-Axis slips a bit in the coupler and doesn't lower enough. (Never heard of such behaviour, but worth a try). Other thing can be that the hot end is a bit loose and turns and lowers a bit while printing. (Just guesses here)
  9. Yesterday it was the old one, which expired 26.11.2012, around 16 o'clock. :-) Today there is the new one installed, valid 365 more days. All is well now.
  10. Mhh, you _should_ at least replace all the wood on the head. Can't say if it is possible to kludge something when not doing. For disassembling / pulling out the thermocouple and heater (and all party that get heated in use) -> it's always a good idea to warm / heat things that you need to remove, be it "slid in" or "screwed in". Ask any car mechanic :-)
  11. You can try the "skirt" feature - when you set it to an offset of 0 (Zero), it will form a "brim". I think Daid recommends a line count of around 15-20. That should be easier to do than to alter the model :-)
  12. Today i got new, black Filament from fabberworld.com. Very nice, not translucent, deep black. So I decided to give it a go and printed same parts of the InMoov Hand (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:17773). I printed them at 220 degrees, 2mm retraction. No Problems. Then I decided to test the retraction capabilities and temperature characteristics of the Filament and printed (several times) the hollow calibration pyramid (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:21303). First at 220 degrees, 2mm retraction (80mm/s speed). After that I tried 220 degrees and 4mm retraction. Went both kinda well (but
  13. I recommend daily exercises, a healthy diet and don't forget to bring a big stick - there are bears roaming near Lausanne :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
  14. I am a bit curious and want to know the Distance the HotEnd travels in a printjob. I thought of using the length of filament used, but as the head also jumps (without printing) that won't work. Is there an (easy?) way to determine the length of traveling in Cura? My curiosity is grounded on the idea: "How many meters can the machine run a line without losing it's position". (I know, in theory, unending, but I want to know real world values).
  15. Looks like a foldable Slingshot :-P
  16. Daid is working on it (this moment) - seems to be a problem with the current release. Should be fixed soon :-)
  17. fuchs


    https://groups.google.com/forum/?fromgroups=#!topic/ultimaker/LETIq-3q-jg ? :-)
  18. I had a similar problem recently - hotend v1, berthos extruder, v3 bolt. I used PLA from 2printbeta and had after a while terrible problems with the flow rate, the print was getting thinner and thinner and the PLA didn't flow in a stream but more in little blobs (or none at all). I got weird prints with that, instable, flaky, partially see-through. I uses retraction on some objects before. I then got rid of the v1 hotend and installed the v2 one. I noticed that the v1 hotend had some teflon tape (it seemed) in the nozzle and the nozzle-tip and seemed to be clogged with burned /blackened PLA.
  19. Maybe the filesystem? Is it FAT32 and is the SD Card 2 GByte? I think, there was some limit to the size of the card and/or the filesystem.
  20. YAY!!! It's available!!! :-)
  21. Yes, you can - and even dial in the speed from 0 to 255 (although mine won't start until around "60").
  22. Seems to be a "normal bug" - had the same with a 17 hours print, counter was at 22% when it was finished. Didn't file a bug report, but posted a note of it in "Marlin" Section of the Forum (as Marlin is the firmware that drives the machine and controls the Ulticontroller)
  23. Quick question: Will it be possible to have individual profiles for each object you print in the project planner, when doing them in "one after the other" mode? I mean, you would open Project Planner, add Object 1, set Profile for it ("fine, 0.1mm layer"), add Object 2, set Profile for it ("medium, 0.2mm layer") and use "print Object 1 first, then Object 2". Usually I print "all at once with one setting", but ppl. ask me sometimes for samples of an object in different resolutions (or I want to test out if an object is nicer with "skin" or finer layer etc.) - and that would need different pr
  24. Mhh, but you still have the mains power on the Ultimaker when you connect it via USB, or? I noticed that you can run the Ultimaker on USB alone, it even displays stuff in the Ulticontroller and tries to heat up the hotend, but fails in funny ways (due to the lack of power via USB). It's just a total wild guess. Don't beat me ^^
  25. I also got 1.5.6 - maybe your cables are mixed up? Swap them for a try? =)
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