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fuchs

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Everything posted by fuchs

  1. So you are basically saying that you alter a parameter (steps) but don't find it necessary to validate a second, related (and coupled) parameter? One that accounts for a square function (^2) regarding volume? *ahem*
  2. Did you dial in the right diameter for the filament? Step will only affect the length of the extruded material, not the volume....
  3. Ok, from my experience, that's a bit low. It depends on the filament of course and on the object (and if you use retraction, how fast you print etc.). But - if possible - for some testing, you can ramp up the temperature. For troubleshooting purposes I would recommend 225 to 230 degrees. If that solves the problem, you should lower the temperature in 5 degrees steps until problem reoccurs. Btw: some ppl. report, that their thermocouple seems to read low all the times, meaning that the print head is colder than that what the machine thinks it is. In that case, they also increase the temperature. Iterate, Iterate! ;-)
  4. PeggyB is right of course - the fan is also misplaced. I just took two pictures of my assembly (sorry for the bad quality - did use high shutter speed as the machine is printing, therefore pictures are rather dark. URL: https://dl.dropbox.com/u/34708308/Ultimaker-Forum-001.jpg https://dl.dropbox.com/u/34708308/Ultimaker-Forum-002.jpg ----
  5. Yes, there is a real solution. The usually used but wrong solution is to tighten / fix the hose somehow, but the reason for it to be driven out of the head is, that plastic forms a bubble or plug under it, directly in the head and that force pushes the hose out. At what temperature do you print? Too low and the material won't melt enough leading to that effect. The canonical solution is a different hot end, the modell V2, available since a few weeks. Please see http://daid.eu/blag/2012/08/31/ultimaker-a-look-at-the-v2-hotend/ for a comprehensive take on that topic.
  6. Mhh, the fan is usually mounted to the left - in your build it is to the back. This leads in turn to the problem seen in picture 2: you can't fold the fan, as it bumps against the hot end. So that's a clear "not ok" here. Attention: The lower lip of the fan duct needs to be opened, so that the air will hit the printed object and _maybe_ the lowest part of the tip of the nozzle. That's why it has 2 folding lines. Regarding the pin: The Pin on which your fingers rest in the picture is to tighten down the filament (the plastic material). As you don't have any material inserted into the extruder, as one sees in the bowden tube above, the pin will just turn and be kind of loose, as it does not really push against much (except a small piece of delrin). Don't try to turn it tight now (without filament) as you could maybe break the delrin part by accident.
  7. Sometimes, an object with a larger footprint ( like the owl: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:18218) is easier to "knock off" with a hammer. With a tap against the (back)side and off it goes. But that induces shock into the bed and the arms which carry the bed. Yes, technically one would not need a hammer - other weighted things would also work - and "hammer it off" sounds maybe a bit too harsh, as I don't smash the hammer into the object as you would when hammering a nail into wood =) But some objects really stick well. I use yellow TESA 4840 tape instead of the scotch one. Got the idea from Gregor Luetolf and his Blog: http://www.3drucken.ch/2012/07/auf-der-suche-nach-dem-abdeckband.html
  8. Oops, just saw a video from Ultimaker where they took off the whole printing bed after the print and then took of the object from the bed. I usually pry the object loose from the mounted bed - is it recommended to remove the bed? I mean, it makes sense - the bed is constructed to be easily removed - but who of you does remove it to get the print? Just curious... :-)
  9. I noticed, that sometimes in Cura, after using "Slice to GCode", i push the "Print GCode" Button, look at the new window coming up, see that the connection to the machine is good - and then i FORGET to press the second "Print GCode" Button (DUH!!!). I usually realize that about 3-10 minutes later, as i don't suspect anything of my mistake, as the machine needs some time to heat up. It's like with the Coffeemaker in the morning *g* So, one idea is maybe a shortcut for "Print directly" (meaning Connect and start sending GCode). Maybe with CTRL-P under Windows? :mrgreen: Also CTRL-L for "load Model" would be a nice add-on. Second (silly) Idea is: A Printer driver as a device driver under Windows? I know, currently that makes no sense, but in the future one will want to "directly print" from an application, akin to "i print that document / website / graphic" by just pressing CTRL-P in any application, select Printer or FAX or Mail and it "prints" it (whatever that exactly means). Maybe i should get a patent for that... :twisted:
  10. Sure, but if Ultimaking Ltd can't supply the demanded stuff, maybe there are other distributors or resellers who would like to do that. Like with automobiles - there are car makers who sell "neatly packaged cars" and "option packs" and there is aftermarket stuff (Radios, Navs, Rims, Spoilers etc.).
  11. You could try this http://daid.eu/blag/2012/07/03/ultimaker-suicide/
  12. Observation / Feature idea I noticed that printing with lower temperatures and retraction is a good way to get rid of the pesky stringing, as the filament doesn't "drip" that much and therefore the retraction has less to worry about. But a low temperature limits the speed with which the hotend can melt the filament, as the filament needs higher temperatures for higher speeds (or?). So maybe it would be a good idea to vary the temperature a bit between "layers in which much retraction occurs" and layers "with much area to fill". Does that sound somehow plausible?
  13. Mhh, not sure how to phrase it but: I am currently printing some rather basic forms (for a cupboard) that i designed. I print them with Cura 12.08, basic settings, only change is layer height 0.24 (i use 0.08 // 0.16 and 0.24), retraction 2mm, 220 degress (for the PLA i use) and a skirt 5 times with 15mm distance. When i changed the print speed from 50 to 70 and the temperature from 220 to 224 i noticed, that while printing the skirt, on the 3rd or 4th turn, the head "jumped" about 2cm(?) in the direction of its printing. The skirt came out all right but when printing the object, on the second or third layer both X and Y axis were suddenly off, by maybe 2 or 3mm (not cm). I cancelled the print, went back to the old settings and all was ok. Then with the 4th copy of the object, i tried again the higher speed and temperature (as i thought "what gives") - and i had the exact same behaviour. I know, that's not a bug report or such - i just wanted to ask if anybody had witnessed at any time in the past a similar behaviour? When i have finished printing my cupboard-parts, i will try to reproduce that behaviour and capture it on camera. In the meantime: Anyone had a similar experience? Thanks!
  14. Berthos Extruder Modification and retraction (typically 2mm) -> http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:26094 You can also lower the temperature a slight bit, try 2-4 degrees less.
  15. I had the same problem with 2 switches where one screws didn't really catch and with the top Z-Stop where _both_ screws were loose. As i had to readjust the Z-Stop a few times, i was very worried about that condition - until i used some longer screws than recommended in the wiki. Magically, the longer screws (at least for the Z-Stop) did work wonders and both threads really gripped. So maybe try some longer screws (16 instead of 12mm or 20 instead of 16mm etc.)
  16. There is also this on Thingiverse: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:24172
  17. fuchs

    Lübbecke

    +1 in Wohlen, Aargau, Schweiz
  18. Loaded it into normal Cura. Did only the "merging" in the project planner (no slicing), saved the STL, closed the project planner and loaded the file immediately in Cura again (Main window, project planner was closed). I didn't restart Cura however. Then sliced and printed it.
  19. Just for the record: I tried putting 4 objects into the projectplanner, auto arranged them, saved the layout as a new STL. Closed planner, loaded STL file, sliced that... and after 4 hours it crashed so heavily into the bed, that it came off the hinges (screws). So, saving some objects via planner into a new STL doesn't seem to be a workaround atm. Daid, you owe me a beer!
  20. I think these are the maximum values that are hardcoded(?) into the firmware, IF you use the firmware the builder makes. I don't know if these can be overriden in software or not - but i reckon it to be a good idea, to set the values high if you want to be sure, that the firmware is not limiting you at _that_ point. Applying is suprisingly easy - you get a .zip file which you unpack. There you will find a Batch-file - just click on it, enter the COM-Port of the Ultimaker (e.g. COM12) and then it flashes the firmware. Did this just recently (also for the first time) and it went without any problems. Just check that you know the Comport and that you don't have any application using the Ultimaker at the time of flashing the firmware.
  21. Psst, super secret h@x0r Site from that Warez-King "Daid" (he is really GANG-STA) :mrgreen: http://daid.eu/~daid/marlin_build/
  22. I recently levelled my printing bed with a dial gauge and got it around 0.1mm even. As the Z-Axis endstop is a little bit pesky, i set it so that i had to turn the Z-Axis by hand some clicks when the print starts. For the first prints, i had so turn the Z-Axis around 6-8 "clicks" (to raise it) and all went fine. After a few hours (3-4), i noticed that i didn't need to turn (adjust) the Z-Axis that much, only about 2-3 "clicks". 3 hours later the machine printed without any change in Z-height and i was very happy (altough a bit suspicious). After 3 more hours (cumulated running time around 10-12 hours) i noticed, that the start of printing did dig into the tape on the printbed and i had to _lower_ the Z-Axis :shock: So it seems that the printing head did maybe extend, eating away the clearance between the gantry/head and the printing bed. I checked the screws on the head - they are still as tight as usual, also the clearing at the head mechanism are all the same. Printing works now (in the evening) when i lower the Z-Axis. Will check what happens tomorrow morning, when the machine is cooled down. Is it possible that the whole head (heater and nozzle?) expand after long prints? I am yet running with the v1 hotend (v2 was delivered yesterday, but i didn't install it yet, as my v1 doesn't leak atm and i currently prefer printing and experimenting to maintenance :-P ) ADD: Or is this a case of the nozzle getting looes and unscrewing itself? I am starting to find very tiny traces of burned PTFE leaking between the aluminium heater block and the nozzle... ADD2: Ok, in the morning the clearance between head/nozzle and printing bed is as small as in the evening, meaning that either in the course of yesterday the Z-Axis has moved/the printing bed did raise ("Ascension") - which is kinda unlikely - or the head has sagged / nozzle is coming loose.
  23. Ah, currently i am printing at 210 and using the Ultimaker PLA. Will try 200 degrees next. Thanks! :mrgreen:
  24. ( https://dl.dropbox.com/u/34708308/Tippingpoints.jpg ) Printing objects with a pointy end (like http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:18218 or http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:24255 results in a mess at the endpoints, mostly (i think) because there is only a very small space to print on. I am using Cura 12.08 with the basic parameters. Only change i did was "Cooling time" which i set from 8 to 10. My guess is, that the hot hotend stays for too long in the vicinty of these small patches and the radiation heat prevents the spots from cooling down (fan is running of course). Any ideas how to get nicer ends? I read about turning the speed for the last layers down to 70, 50 or even 40% - but isn't that basically the same as the "Cooling time" parameter? I am otherwise kinda happy, but it spoils the experience when the last few layers are bad afters hours of printing :-/
  25. By mistake (while adjusting the printing bed) the printhead did scrap a bit into the tape covering the printing bed. I use yellow Tesa 4840 which has some kind of ripple-structure to it. The printing head left a small imprint in these ripple structure, especially the skirt (i use Cura with a 3x15mm distance skirt). The print went fairly good and i decided to print the same object a second time. Then i noticed, that the PLA went really easy into the groove, the first print had left - like in some kind of mould. So i printed the same object a third time and i saw that even with a not 100% correct Z-height, the PLA went nicely into the groove and did stick there quite well. My observation is, that maybe if one uses some kind of spongy(?) covering for the printing bed, which can be pressed down by the printing head, one could make a groove (like a trench) in which the PLA (or printing material) would stick a bit easier, as the tube of material (which is basically round) would get squashed a bit into the ground (as usual) but would also have more contact points with the sides of that trench. In essence, maybe one could use the printing head without extruding to "prime" the printing bed when it is covered with a soft, not too thick material (like some kinds of tape) and therefore leveling the area onto which will be printed and also giving more support to the printing material. After that, one would print the first layer into that trench/groove/mould. Of course one would have to replace the tape (or Mat?) after each (or some) printing. Anybody tried / observed something similar?
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