msurunner
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Posts posted by msurunner
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Hey Daid,
Tried to PM, but the new forum seems to dislike PM's :( Haha, anyhow, if you figure that out or shoot me an email, I can get you some info.
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Daid, have you guys explored moving the SD card to a location removed from the LCD? Also, if the fully assembled kits are being sold with the UltiController, have you guys considered integrating the panel with the UM chassis?
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For the top I would slow it down a bit, using the plugin to change speed/temp at height. http://forum.ultimaker.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=2348&start=15
For retraction parameters, there can be a bit of playing around that you will want to do. You want it to essentially release pressure by pulling the filament back, however, the amount of pull and speed are things that can be a bit individualized to the part and printer. Things to consider: how hot are you running? How fast are you printing? How well is your extruder working (is it the upgraded version or the older pressure plate)? How much material are you pushing out beforehand. The hotter/faster you are running the more pressure you are going to have to relieve, which means more travel. The more you travel though, the longer it takes to do this retraction, which allows the print head to sit there idly (heating corners/creating blobs). So, I guess my quick answer for you would be if you feel confident in your machine, try bumping the speed of retraction up a bit and see if that helps. I've seen retraction amounts up to 5mm as well that have worked based up speed and temp. So if that doesn't solve it, maybe bump it up to 3-4 mm on the amount and speed up to 50 mm/s. You may try searching thingiverse for the pyramid calibration test as well as it will burn through less filament as you try your settings than your current part.
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Simple solution for ya: 866=102.7mm, 843=98, try 852. That should get you pretty close... You should be between that and 853 without having quite as precise of an 843 measurement, getting you within one step per e ought to be sufficient to get nice prints.
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I agree with Snowy on Cura. Until you get familiarized with what your printer is saying to you, don't bother with paying for/experimenting with the other slicers.
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Thank you for the explanation. I only used inches because that is how my indicator is marked.
Should I try to adjust the motor power, as described here: http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Electronics_build_guide#Tuning_the_stepper_motor_drivers I do have a multimeter but I'm not sure how I would use it for this.
How are your prints looking? If they are looking good, you are probably getting the measurement associated with the slight tightening and loosening of the belts as the eccentric point of the pulley on the axis comes around. If that's the case, then I wouldn't touch the drivers. They can be a bit finicky and are easy to fry. Snowygrouch looked into some high tech pulleys that would maintain concentrically correctness but found they cost far too much.
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The noise is a product of the accelerations in the printhead. You are undoubtedly getting different sounds due to the different approaches each slicer takes in reading how to generate the g-code. As the largest impact in the way it generates the g-code is going to be what the part physically is, it would be particularly difficult to quantify which is the most quiet.
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My favorite belt tensioners: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:17058
I had a similar problem after trying to adjust the drivers. I replaced the driver(s) and everything was mas bueno... I would suggest to the Wiki-masters that they remove or update the driver adjustment to show the user some sort of range of adjustment. I.e. without endstops do we turn it a full turn? a quarter turn? five degrees?
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I'm guessing you have a "non-standard" character in the filename. Daid's added the ability to recognize many of them but some things like accented letters and umlauts can cause issues.
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Is there any way to reset it back to the Factory standards.
Not particularly... there aren't any endstops, so you would have to break out the multimeter and measure across the chip, then adjust, then measure, then adjust, potentially to only find out you fried it already. I would just order a new one if you are absolutely certain your steppers are not being powered properly. http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/2128http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/2128
Before you do that , check all of your pulleys, particularly the ones attached to the stepper shafts, are secure. They can be quite deceptive in that the motor will very quietly turn inside those pulleys, making it seem as though the motor is not turning, when in actuality it's just fine, the pulley connection is the issue.
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Check your minimum fan speed. If it's not high enough, the fan won't engage... Something in the order of 100 or so would be my guess for what you should have. This value will change slightly depending on the the layer time, so if it thinks it doesn't need a lot of cooling, and your minimum fan speed isn't high enough, it won't supply enough juice to the fan. Other than that, check your fan's wires all the way through to the connection at the top of the printhead. Sometimes those inside the box can slide over to the hotend and strip/melt off the casing, causing the current to simply bypass the fan. Other than that, you likely have either a bad fan, bad connection (fan to cable, cable to board), or a bad output in the board.
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It does, the plugin in I referred to will input that command when it reaches the desired height as well as modify the speed if desired
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Could be under powered steppers, but this seems more likely a pulley, likely one of the ones physically on the stepper motor, not one of the axis pulleys. Those grub screws kinda split the torque, while the the one on the motor shaft is all by it's lonesome. Double check it. Then you should make sure your axis are parallel by loosening the pulleys on the axis and squaring up the print head spanners with the axis. Then lubricate the axis and spanners with a sewing machine oil, or similar substitute. That should make printhead movement much easier, and hopefully mean you won't have to adjust the stepper pots, because that can be dicey...
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He's doing that with KISSlicer, which allows for different first layer temps. Try downloading that gist I placed in the Cura section and place it in your plugins folder. Then keep the old speed and new speed the same and it should work the same.
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Plus one on Daid's post!
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https://gist.github.com/4598137
That should download the code for you. Toss a .py extension on it and place it in the Cura plugins folder and it should recognize it... Let me know if it doesn't or if it doesn't do what you want it to do!
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Similar approach to what I'm going for, but I ask the user for old and new speeds to keep the units in mm/s. Then I calculate the percentage, rather than having the user do the calculation. I just wanted to be certain that was what everyone would want before I "published" it.
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I wouldn't take a drill to the nozzle... I would first try removing the nozzle and heating it with a torch or lighter (obviously be careful handling it). The temps associated with direct flame should remove any contaminants. The more you introduce a cutting device to the nozzle, the more influence you can have on flow characteristics and can potentially generate bits of brass in the nozzle that will not melt, thus can create a plug.
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Haha, it helps when you are around them five days a week! It's amazing how many bugs they can find in even commercial software, too. Every time I think I have a piece of software figured out, they find a way to alter the GUI/settings in a way I've never seen and I have to go searching on the net for how to return it to its original state.
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No, I understand that, but is it printing while it builds to that temperature okay with you or would we want it to pause printing until that desired temp is met? I guess this would be dependent on how large of a temperature jump we are talking. If we are only bumping it up five or ten degrees and running at that temp for a while then I think we are probably okay allowing it to print while changing temps, but if we are talking about a bigger jump, or only needing a certain temp for a short period of time, a pause would probably be necessary.
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Are we looking to have it pause or merely build towards a new target temp? If pause to make sure the temp levels before printing again, do we want/need a wipe area? How many parameters are too many on the plug in? I've got the plugin file available for a simple temp/speed change, but if we are planning a lot of temp changes in a short amount of time, it probably needs to have a pause for the temperature to level before it starts printing, which will result in oozing (tested) and probably will produce the desire for a wipe to try to knock off any oozing. The ooze material is not particularly difficult to remove, but all the same.
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Daid,
Is the UlitController continuously checking it's "speed" and modifying it based upon the previous cycle? As in, I was at 140% and even though I'm still showing that, I know that I haven't changed my speed and thus my M220 shall remain S100 or is there another loop it's running? I think I have the plug-in correct while being lazy and just having the user input the percentage, but I have to think that a mm/s input would be easier on the user side, which would require a getValue and comparison (what I'm thinking the UC does?) correct?
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I'm working on it now rafael, testing the plugin as we speak.
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Would we want it to restart as soon as temp is reached or wait for user input like the pause at height command? I'm inclined to believe the former, but let me know otherwise.
Updated Laser Files
in Third party products & modifications
Posted
Is there a source for the most current laser files, particularly those around the extruder, available? The transition to the new forum makes a search through the main site's bar (i.e. between the wiki and forums) much more difficult and I admit I'm being lazy in not wanting to sort through the forum...
Thanks in advance!