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Everything posted by jsamuels

  1. Zoev89 it's quite easy to figure out the power supply requirements, the heated bed is just a resistor and so Ohm's law tells you everything you need. The lowest resistance point along the temperature curve will be the maximum power required, so divide your voltage by that and you have the amps needed. If the resistance drops as the temperature goes up then the power draw will go down, it's no problem. Unfortunately I'm not able to adjust my power supply below 21V, so I'll have to source another one.
  2. Yes, that's the one. It is 1.8 ohm per the spec so I guess it's not defective. But with a 24V supply this will draw 24/1.8 = 13.33A When I drive this from a 24V 10A supply, the voltage measured across the power supply terminals drops to around 16.5V. So the heated bed is drawing around 16.5/1.8 = 9.2A and the power supply is current limited. It's not good to run a power supply like this. To actually drive this safely at 24V it seems I will need a 15A minimum supply.
  3. Can anyone with the ebay kit check the resistance of the bed (across pins 1 & 4 on the connector)? Mine is reading 1.7-1.8 ohms, I don't think it's possible to drive this from my 24V 10A supply as it will pull almost 14A. Indeed the voltage is dropping to about 16.5V under load and the supply got too hot to touch within 1 minute. I'm debating if I should contact the seller for a return or change to a 20A supply instead.
  4. Open source Just like the Original the Ultimaker 2 will remain open source. We dare to share our knowledge because we believe we can achieve even more when working together. Sounds great... where's the source? I looked over the website, wiki, and github but didn't find anything.
  5. If the clicking is coming from the back-right pulley you're pointing out in the video, try loosening the grub screw for it and moving the axis, to see if the clicking goes away? Did you already check these things? - Short belt tension - Rods and belts are in the same plane along Z axis... this thing will demonstrate : http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:8781 - Belts aren't binding on or rubbing the shoulder of the pulleys, and that the pulleys themselves aren't rubbing against the rod end bearings / frame. - The rod end bearings or rod ends themselves are not rubbing against the covers on
  6. I believe you just specify the T parameter for the M104/M109 command, T0 being extruder nr1 and T1 being extruder nr2... M104 S200 T0 ; set 1st extruder temp to 200, don't wait for preheat M109 S200 T1 ; set 2nd extruder temp to 200 deg, wait wait for preheating But you may need to send tool change first with M6, or change gcode to address extruder via A/B axis. I am not sure which one Ultimaker / Marlin supports. M6 T1 ; change to 2nd extruder G1 E10 ; extrude 10mm from 2nd extruder M6 T0 ; change to 1st extruder G1 E10 ; extrude 10mm from 1st extruder - or - G1 A10 ; extrude 10mm f
  7. I was quoted $175-200 (material included) at some local shops (west coast USA) for cutting out the UM frame from 6mm & 4mm plywood. I got a test cut and the tabbed joints fit fine. I didn't ask how much the plywood cost. But I know that plain acrylic sheet 1/4" thick is around $10-15 per sq foot, not sure how much you need for an UM offhand. I didn't find any place locally stocking metric-sized acrylic though. I'm not certain if 1/4" (6.35mm) is close enough to 6mm for everything to work perfectly... I think it would need some tweaking. And for the 4mm parts, locally it's only 3/16" (4.76
  8. You can start with the RepRap gcode reference ( http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code ), Ultimaker has the Marlin firmware and it supports most commands if the feature is present. The wiki does list for some commands if they are supported by Marlin or not, but others you just consider if the hardware support is there. For example the heated bed / heated chamber commands won't work on a stock Ultimaker as those features aren't present. Daid has a Marlin builder you can use to custom-build a firmware, you can add the 2nd extruder there in the configuration options IIRC. ( http://daid.eu/~daid/marl
  9. Agreed, I had the same problem with some early prints. Also I would check that the pulley on the motor is mounted correctly such that it's not rubbing on the motor or that the belt is rubbing on the frame.
  10. You will need to send the commands to the printer in order to change it. Editing the .gcode for a model will only change it when printing that model. There is a box in printrun on the lower right you can use to send individual commands to the printer. You will need to use M92 E to set the new E steps per mm and then send G92 to zero out the extrusion length. For example, if you have E steps of 865.888 (default), you extrude 50mm and measure 46mm. Then you want to set your new E steps to 941.183 and retest. First send the M92 to set the new E steps value, then G92 to zero out the extruded leng
  11. I did something dumb with 3 of my stepper drivers (plugged them in backwards... don't ask!) and pretty sure I fried them. The rest of the electronics seem fine, tested all 4 axis very carefully with the remaining stepper driver. So now I need replacements. I don't see them order-able on the UM store, but anyways I think I can get them a lot cheaper / less shipping here in the US. But the Pololu A4988 are sold out in a lot of places. I see there are some alternatives though and I'm wondering if any would be a better choice? Pololu DRV8825 ( http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/2132 ) may be
  12. What version of the electronics do you have?
  13. I also have some wood chipping in this area, and just had to clear a nozzle clog due to splinters getting carried through the bowden tube to the hot end. I am considering a guard made from shim stock to apply in this area, I haven't quite come up with a good solution to hold it in place just yet though. I also got the same wear groove in the delrin piece after maybe 1 kg of filament used, but now UM has upgraded their idler design to a Bertho-inspired design, so this shouldn't be a problem anymore.
  14. You can indeed use Cura (or Printrun) to send GCode to non-Ultimaker printers. You may need to edit the configuration file if you have some unusual COM port settings.
  15. There was some mention of putting the extruder upgrade source files up somewhere but I haven't seen it. If you want to DIY one and don't want to wait for Ultimaker to release the design, you could use Bertho's extruder as a starting point. There are some differences but if you're going to adjust the Ultimaker version to use different bearings/springs then I'd expect you can also adjust Bertho's design. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:26094
  16. A good set of drill bits come in handy for clearing holes, with a pin vise or hand chuck to them them in. I have a set of number/letter drills which are "close enough" to most metric sized holes, but a set of metric drills would be better and cost less for the set. You could also pick up just the common sizes for cheap, you don't need fancy bits for hand drilling plastic.
  17. Printing snowygrouch's aluplate/peek cooling fanduct. Thank you very much for the STL. I think finally I have my Ultimaker almost perfectly tuned! edit: I would like to thank everyone here for the great information and help in getting an Ultimaker set up and troubleshooting the growing pains. large image:http://i.imgur.com/1j0xl.jpg small video:
  18. What version of the ultimaker is this? The hole in the bottom plywood is different, and so is the aluminum plate...
  19. If you have good retraction you can try printing all the same sized gear parts as 1 plate, you can print many small parts faster that way as you don't hit the layer time minimum. And as the nozzle spends less time per part you solve this melted blob problem too. But if you don't have a well tuned machine with good retraction settings then you'll get strings. I think it's easier to fix those than this blob, though... Beware though the current version of Cura project planner has a bug and will crash your machine if you print 'layer at a time' instead of 'object at a time' or what's it called...
  20. What if we went in reverse? What I'm seeing for most of the dual extruder setups, one would either be used for a support material or for a detailed part of the model. What if you used a .2mm nozzle? Then the support material wouldn't be at thick, thus easier to snap/dissolve off, the detailed section would be even more detailed, and we would lower oozing while it sat idle. Just a thought... It would take longer to print the support structure with a smaller nozzle size, and also more force to extrude 3mm filament -> .2mm nozzle.
  21. Yep, I used my calipers to measure the extrusion in a way I could rule out priming of the nozzle. First I set the caliper to ~70mm and put a piece of blue tape on the filament below the extruder. Next, close the caliper by 10mm and zero it. Now heat up the nozzle, and manually turn the feed wheel until the tape lines up with the caliper again. Extrude 50mm and check where the tape is, you should measure 50mm on the caliper. If not, then recalculate your E steps. 50/measured*e_steps = new_e_steps. So if you measured 47mm and had 825 e_steps, 50/47*825 = 877.6596, easy enough. You can do it with
  22. Check this out : Finally, almost perfect print. The Z scar is almost gone and sides are perfect, just a tiny ridge on the bottom but it is barely there. The light/dark banding effect is I think a very slight Z wobble, it is invisible when looking normally at the piece but when viewing light through the plastic it becomes visible. Some kind of diffraction perhaps, I am not sure... very interesting though! I changed just 2 things: I switched to Ultimachine PLA, and I re-calibrated my E steps per mm -- but this time I extruded through a heated nozzle. The value I measured from just pushing th
  23. Well, I suppose I don't want to argue about object design here, and I apologize for going offtopic. Lets ignore the shrinkage as it's truly not a "quality" issue anyways. Getting back to print quality, on larger prints I'm noticing a strange ripple or grooved effect on some objects. What could be causing this? http://imgur.com/a/iEFO1 Also in the 2nd image, the ridge along Z axis moves is visible along the upper edge.
  24. Question : how snug should these printable LM8UU bushings fit? I have precision ground 8mm rods, which measure within .01mm. I did a simple test to measure the force required to slide these on the smooth rod, and it is around 12-15kg which seems like WAY too much. I used a postal scale, and a quick jig made from wood blocks, so it's not the most accurate measurement. But they are very difficult to slide, even after working them quite a bit and spinning the rod with my drill for a bit. I could simply scale the part, but it's already specified at 8.1mm ID & 15mm OD, and I really think the U
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