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jsamuels

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Everything posted by jsamuels

  1. OK, I took a better photo with my DSLR which hopefully illustrates the ridge/seam problem:
  2. Continuation from this thread... viewtopic.php?f=7&t=1484 I'm printing this thing: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:16813 Per the SCAD file - OD should be 15 mm, but the printed part measures 14.6 mm. ID should measure 8.1 mm but is barely able to be forced onto an 8mm rod with significant pressure. Length is 24mm exactly as it should be. There is a seam / ridge on the outside of the part running along where the Z axis moves are made, it measures approximately +.4mm, giving an OD there of 15mm - which is the expected OD. But of course totally wrong still. I also still have a
  3. No, its not the only factor, but it seems to be a big cause though. Other things to check: the bed needs to be accurately leveled and zeroed, and the XY axis needs to be properly square, aligned and lubricated. Filament diameter should also be carefully measured and set. The filament I received with the machine from Ultimaker seems high quality and has very little variance in diameter, however some other filament I have from a different supplier is oval by nearly .2mm and varies as much as +-.2mm more when measured in multiple spots along the length. Beyond that getting your machine settin
  4. The belts both short and long need to be quite tight. There is a video, I think on the wiki, demonstrating the tightness. I could not get mine tight enough with the provided adjustments and needed to print improved belt tensioners. You can find many of these on Thingiverse.
  5. OK, I have adjusted Z axis, to where I can barely get adhesion to the printed bed. I've changed the initial layer to .2 mm, and lowered the temperature to 195. I added 5 skirt lines to hopefully work out any issues with the first plastic coming from the nozzle, and lowered infill and infill overlap to 10% - though I now have gaps in between perimeter and infill, so I'll need to raise this back up. I created a simple test part in TinkerCad, a 20mm disk 5mm thick, with 8mm 4mm and 3mm holes and printed quite a few of these as I performed each adjustment. The best result: Thickness of the skirt
  6. Wow, how'd I miss it? Thanks! Seems like it's something that would be very useful to have on the documentation page, yes? : http://daid.github.com/Cura/?page=Project%20planner
  7. Is it possible to have the project planner print per-layer instead of per-object? What I mean is, if you add 5 models to the project planner, currently it prints object 1, then object 2, etc. Is it instead possible to print layer 1 of each object, then layer 2 of each object, and so on? This would enable tighter object packing as you don't have to worry about the head crashing into each one. However a drawback would be if you have a failure at some point it ruins all the objects, instead of just the one it's currently printing.
  8. Thanks for the replies. Daid: I leveled the bed while cold, and zeroed the Z axis while hot (after running a few prints actually). The tip of the nozzle is barely touching the bed. I can feel slight interference with a .0005" feeler gage. I'm not sure how to get it any more exact? BTW - it would be nice to have Z-axis compensation in your Cura software, instead of fiddling with a screw. MSURunner it's a good thought. I'm not sure how it might account for this effect as the higher speed above the bottom layers should also extrude more plastic? I can test it though. I will test these sugges
  9. Hi guys – new Ultimaker owner, and I’m having some issues with my prints. The bottom several layers of my prints are flared pretty heavily, so much so as to be unusable without some tedious hand-finish work. There’s also a groove in the side of the prints where the nozzle makes the movement between the inner and outer layers of the perimeter. I took some photos which shows the problem: http://i.imgur.com/VTuMI.jpg http://i.imgur.com/ZFNxw.jpg These objects are sliced with the default settings in Cura and printed using Printrun, I haven't played with the advanced settings yet but I think I s
  10. Actually, you can't easily swap the Z axis limit switches as the cables are different length. And in my case it was an XY switch that came with bad threads.
  11. Sander, my Ultimaker (order #100003698) also had some limit switches with stripped threads. I'm certain it came like this from the package, as after the first stripped when I barely tightened it down, I checked the remaining carefully and found the issue. I was able to fix it myself with an M4 tap and screws, but not every owner would have such things readily at hand. You may want to consider changing to a limit switch made of a more durable plastic or ideally one with metal insert for the screw thread. I might also suggest changing to a slightly longer screw here, as the 10mm or 12mm+washe
  12. I believe it is okay to use a screw that will fit through the switch, with a nut on the back side to fix it. But use caution to not over tighten the screw, as it will crack the switch.
  13. Will newly ordered machines come with the new v2 hot end? Or should I wait until after the announcement?
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