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calinb

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  1. Z-stutter update and solution. See: https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/10226-why-does-my-print-have-tiny-zebra-stripes/page/13/?tab=comments#comment-243962
  2. UPDATE: I was premature to announce success in my ongoing war against Z-stuttering, because this problem my UMO has exhibited since new was not fully exorcised from my printer after my last post here and it often continued to rear (or spin ;)) its ugly head. However, after several months without experiencing the problem, I am finally ready to update my post with my solution for anyone who stumbles upon this old thread or is searching for a Z-stutter cure. (I know that over the years, others have reported it in these forums.) Though I've built Marlin countless times in the past, my build upgrading to Marlin 1.1.19 solved the problem. Marlin 1.1.19 has so many new and useful features and it can be setup to work so much more smoothly and intelligently with the Ulticontroller than the original UMO Marlin version that I recommend 1.1.19, regardless. The "Level corners" bed levelling utility is my favorite upgrade, though I'm working on a BLTouch installation currently too. It's possible to choose values that make the Ulticontroller push knob both "accelerate" very nicely with fast spins of the knob but still produce a single advancement (integer or menu increment) using slow single-click turns. It took some experimentation to discover the optimum values to do it so feel free to PM me, if you're interested in my Marlin 1.1.19 code. Of course I still don't know the root cause of the z-stutter problem; I'm just pleased that this annoying problem with all my previous Marlin builds (including the official UM .hex file) is finally gone!
  3. I simply thread my filament out one of the bucket holes to the feeder. I only leave the length of filament out of the bucket when printing and it doesn't absorb moisture fast enough to make a describable when printing, even in the most humid weather I've ever experienced in the Pacific NW of the USA. When not printing with my filament, I rotate the filament spool(s) in the bucket at least daily and simply leave the light on (from 40 W to 100 W, depending on the ambient humidity of the weather (true watts--not the "equivalent" light output ratings on the low power bulbs most often required to be sold by law in the USA). It's too bad the "Edison" light bulbs are no longer available, because they made inexpensive electric heaters (always 100% efficient resistive electrical heat) and produced "free light"! 😉 You could also try using rice in the bottom of the bucket as an alternative to silica gel. It will absorb water and improve the efficiency of the light bulb drier.
  4. I'd prefer to continue to use all the endstop switches, because they seem redundant until software doesn't behave as you might expect and then your stepper motors and drive mechanism crashes against the frame!🤮 It's the same with CNC machine tools. Endstop switches are safety switches. I've already had a crash happen after configuring some Marlin features used with touch sensors. It is tricky and Marlin now has many features that are easy to mis-program and not catch the error until there's a crash. A full set of operating endstop switches protects the hardware.
  5. You can dry your nylon with a 5 gal. bucket (or other container) and light bulb: http://taulman3d.com/drying-materials.html
  6. I've been printing nylon since the trimmer line days (when it was the only nylon media available). Accordingly, I've tried many substrates for printing nylon. In the past, I used contact cement to bond Garolite to a precision Mic6 aluminium plate, but now I just use Gecko EZ-Stick hot on window glass. It works just as well and is easier to replace: https://www.geckotek.co/collections/ez-stik-hot On the other hand, the only perfect bed adhesion that I've found for large and dense nylon prints is Gorilla Glue one-part urethane (the original dark honey-colored stuff) adhesive. It only lasts for a single print though and it's a pain to use. You have to spread it as thin as possible onto a glass build plate with a putty knife and let it dry first. The bonds between the interfaces can be stronger than the glass however. You need some pretty thin pry devices (start with a razor blade on a holder and then transition to a thin putty knife) to remove a part. Sometimes you'll end up pulling up pockets of glass and then that side of the glass will be ruined in that location, due to the craters. After removing the part, you can scrape the Gorilla Glue from the glass with a razor blade scraper. Fortunately the newer nylon formulations tend to offer better adhesion to more conventional build surfaces than trimmer line or the old Taulman 618 too!
  7. I'm running Marlin 1.1.8 on my UMO with its original 1.5.7 electronics and an Ulticontroller. I've been building a new version of Marlin 1.1.8 for my Bltouch sensor, which I'm about to hook-up and start testing. The Marlin source code says: // Enable this feature if all enabled endstop pins are interrupt-capable. // This will remove the need to poll the interrupt pins, saving many CPU cycles. //#define ENDSTOP_INTERRUPTS_FEATURE and the Antclabs Bltouch instructions say this feature is optional. Does the 1.5.7 board have at least three interrupt-capable inputs? I only need three inputs because the Bltouch will use one input and provide a Z homing signal so that means I need only two more endstop interrupts for X and Y. Software limits works fine so I don't need MAX_PIN inputs as defined in the pins.ULTIMAKER.h file defaults here: // Limit Switches // #define X_MIN_PIN 22 #define X_MAX_PIN 24 #define Y_MIN_PIN 26 #define Y_MAX_PIN 28 #define Z_MIN_PIN 30 #define Z_MAX_PIN 32 Even though it would be inconvenient to adapt the endstop switch connectors, they could perhaps be connected to pins 11, 12, 13 or maybe even pins 34 and 36, which are labeled "SERVOS" on the PCB silkscreen. I plan to connect my Bltouch control (servo) pin to pin 13 and it seems that pins 11, 12, and 13 are usually used for such things. Also from pins.ULTIMAKER.h: // // Servos // #define SERVO0_PIN 13 // untested Does anyone here have experience with this? Did using interrupts work well (better than the default CPU polling)? Once I get it up and running and tested, I'll fork the Marlin 1.1.8 source (or maybe I'll spin-up 1.1.9, which is the last 1.x.x Marlin, except for bug fixes) to my github account so others can give it a whirl. BTW, this Bltouch V.2 mount looks pretty good to me. There's not all that much info on the Internet about this UMO mod or endstop interrupts. Bltouch Mount Same as above but with Google Translate to English Thanks!
  8. You might be able to manually adjust the power budget too. Years ago I ran a water cooled Garcad hotend (the first water cooled hotend I ever saw) on my UMO. It had a 6 ohm heater that would reset my UMO, due to overload. Here's what I wrote to the developer at the time. This method worked and I assume that PID_MAX is still a Marlin "knob" that you can tweak, if you're willing to build your own Marlin code.
  9. I'm back (as "calinb") 🙂 🙂 🙂 SandervG sent me a PM with instructions. I hope he doesn't mind my pasting the solution, below. However, I also had to delete all my Firefox cookies and passwords associated with "ultimaker" in order to get a logon with my old username. My new username (calinb_new) can now be deleted, because I hope I never have reason to use it again. (I only created it as a means to recovery my old logon.) It may have been a good thing that my calinb_new logon was associated with a yahoo.com email address and my older username ("calinb") was associated with a gmail.com address. Here's what SandervG recommended. I hope it helps:
  10. After a little online searching, I'd still be interested in hearing from anyone who has first-hand experience with similar software but Gazebo is in my daughter's Linux distro (MX-Linux) repository so it seems like a good place to start. http://gazebosim.org/ https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Robotics_simulator
  11. I hope there's enough traffic in this forum group to obtain some advice here. The Ultimaker.com forum seems like the best fit of all the forums I've joined for this question. My daughter just joined a 4H robotics project group. I could spend a lot of money on experimenter or development kits, but I'm wondering if there's any kind of virtual software environment that would run on her Linux OS laptop. I can envision an educational tool with virtual machines (robots?) living in a graphical world that would respond to code that a student would create to program them to do various things. Any ideas here would be much appreciated! -Cal
  12. I'm very pleased to hear that the connector fix solved your problem, carinac! That is where I find the root cause of your printer's symptoms about 80% of the time. The other 20% of the time, culprit is the thermocouple connection at the two little screws in the green connector block, which is the first place I always check, nonetheless, because it's much easier than pulling the three-wire white connector block apart to inspect and crimp on new metal pins. Even when the wires appear to be attached to the pins, sometimes it's only the insulation that's attached at the insulation crimp point and the electrical crimp point or wire is still an intermittent open circuit and unreliable. (There are two crimp points on each pin--one for just the stripped metal multi-strand wire core and one for the wire WITH the insulation covering it.) I always give each wire a good pull from each pin during an inspection. If the entire wire slips out of the pin, it was not a reliably tight connection at the pin and needed cutting, re-stripping, and replacing anyway. If the wire (the plastic insulation) stretches and breaks at or above the insulation strain relief point, the wire was broken inside the insulation and the wire needs to be re-stripped and crimped to a new pin anyway. I've actually experienced a time or two where I thought I'd found the culprit wire and repaired it, only to find out that ANOTHER wire or connection was also defective! Now I just pull on all three wires, one at a time, and replace the crimp-on pins when there's any doubt. I must apologize for not posting my photos. My good camera is dead and I was never happy with my smart phone photos. I've also not had much spare time for forums lately.
  13. Actually, I like your guess equally well, Gr5, and I find that my screws need tightening about half the time I encounter these symptoms. The other times, I must switch to my second cable (but I eventually need to repair both cables' open circuits or unreliable wire / connections). Unfortunately, carinac is still having trouble after tightening the screws, but I think I've just about eliminated the problem on my UMO so I'll take some photos today (sadly I'll need to use my smartphone, because my good digital camera is bust). I'll take photos of the metal crimp connectors and my crimp tool too and add a few more tips. There's no good way to correct a broken wire without cutting or pulling the wire apart at the break (slightly shortening the wire, but there's plenty of extra length available "upsteam" by re-doing the spiral wrap) and crimping on a new metal connector. The best way to check for a bad wire is to remove all three metal connectors from the white plastic shell and pull on them with moderate force. If you see the insulation stretch in one area, the wire is broken inside. If the wire breaks completely...well, it was probably broken anyway and you found the broken spot! Check all three wires too; you'll often find that more than one of them is bad. Give me a few hours to shovel some snow here in the wintry inland Pacific NW of the U.S. and I'll get some photos taken and posted for you.
  14. I agree. My money's on the screws or the wires/connectors. I have many spare crimp-on connectors and have needed to cut the old ones off and crimp new connectors into place several times in the 5+ years of UMO use. Tiny tools (screwdriver or dental pick) are required to remove the crimp-on connectors from their shell. I use a crimping tool that is very close to the correct model for these connectors. Though it's not the best possible tool for the job, it's much better than needle nose pliers!. The wires often break inside the insulation and make unreliable contact. You can't see the break, because it's inside the insulation. The insulation should be crimped under the 2nd (larger) crimp ring of the connector and the wire NOT soldered. Solder stiffens the multi-strand wire and exacerbates the problem. Through trial and error I've figured out how to support the wires and minimize this problem. I do not route the wires through the black strain relief fingers, because then the wires just eventually break (inside the insulation) at the strain relief fingers. Rather, I go for a long unsupported "bridge" segment from fairly high up the Bowden tube down to the connector socket on the amplifirer board, with a "U" loop in the wire near the connector. I use a small dab of RTV silicone to tie the wire to the black stress relief fingers, but the RTV is flexible and allows some movement of the wire over a longer length of wire. You need to distribute wire movement and stress over as long a length of wire as possible or you will be plagued by frequent wire failures! Move the wires and move the head around. When I start to see tiny temperature reading fluctuations, I know that a wire/connector repair is in my near-term future, if tightening the wire screws doesn't fix it.
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