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  1. Smartavionics fan control is buggy. I can't get it to do what I want it to do either (what it claims it can do with the "initial fan speed" feature). I'll just keep patching M106 statements into the gcode by hand. I could patch dozens if not hundreds of files in the time I've wasted on this.
  2. I'm downloading the smartavionics Cura. It's great to see ARM support too! The README.md says: * Initial Fan Speed At Height/Layer lets you specify the layer at which the initial fan speed comes into effect. Below that layer, the fans are off. Woo-whoo! Thanks, gr5.
  3. I need a fan speed control behavior that's even simpler (and, as I recall, available in the original Cura as well as the netfabb engine). I don't desire any kind of fan speed scaling from "Regular Fan Speed" to "Maximum Fan Speed." I honestly don't see any reason for this behavior, except maybe for printing pyramids or cones! I simply want the fan at 0% speed or, upon reaching a minimum layer print time threshold, xx% speed--nothing in-between. An even more advanced behavior would be for the fan speed to inversely scale with layer time, but not UNTIL reachin
  4. The V6 nozzles are compatible: https://e3d-online.dozuki.com/c/V6_nozzles#Section_Documents I have the Fun Pack: https://e3d-online.com/collections/nozzles/products/nozzle-fun-pack The Cyclops nozzle is too small.
  5. I think the E3D nozzles are available individually too. They are a plug and play installation on the UMO/UMO+, or nearly so. Just make sure that when you tighten the nozzle it bottoms against the brass tube rather than the aluminium heater block such that the nozzle seals against the brass tube inside the heater block. You'll have a very small gap between the nozzle hex and the block that way--perhaps not even visible to the eye. You will probably need to adjust the position of the brass tube to get the nozzle to bottom against the brass tube correctly (without an excessive gap at the heater b
  6. It's not difficult to adapt the UMO / UMO+ to other nozzles. I've used Makergear nozzles of various orifice sizes along with Makergear brass "barrels" in the past (instead of my UMO brass "tube"). Now I have the cute little "tin" can nozzle kit of smaller (external dimensions) in a wide range of orifice sizes from E3D and they work well with the original UMO brass tube that's shown here: https://github.com/Ultimaker/UltimakerOriginal/blob/master/1053_Hot_End_Isolator_Tube/B1053-A2P-A.PDF Okay, the actual "tube" doesn't quite look like the .pdf but you should recognize it as th
  7. You're welcome! Thanks for the info about your UM setup too. I hear ya'! I have all sorts of upgrade parts ready to install on my UMO, which is still a really sweet machine, but find little time to work on the projects I've planned. The Marlin website has really become a great resource. The config files are also well-documented. Let us know if you need help when you get around to building a new Marlin. BTW, the Arduino toolkit version makes a big difference. I have several versions installing on my MX-Linux system. Sometimes you just have to try a different Arduino dev kit
  8. After studying Marlin support for the BLTouch, I'll probably start with a polled interface and use the UMO upper switch (homing zero stop) for both an endstop and the BLTouch. Maybe I'll see if interrupts can be used later. I still have to find time to print a bunch of parts before I do this mod too. I just can't seem to find the spare time. 😞
  9. Yes, Curven. I'm on Marlin 1.1.9 now and it's my favorite version ever! I'm very pleased with the single click per Ulticontroller menu item settings that I've found along with excellent knob spin "acceleration" and fast Z-homing speeds. I also like many of the newer Marlin features. Finally, it's the first Marlin where I've never had occasional problems with z-stage stuttering, which previously required me to power down the machine after every print. Stuttering seems to be a rare problem but others have also experienced the same stuttering behavior that's plagued my machine since new.
  10. Z-stutter update and solution. See: https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/10226-why-does-my-print-have-tiny-zebra-stripes/page/13/?tab=comments#comment-243962
  11. UPDATE: I was premature to announce success in my ongoing war against Z-stuttering, because this problem my UMO has exhibited since new was not fully exorcised from my printer after my last post here and it often continued to rear (or spin ;)) its ugly head. However, after several months without experiencing the problem, I am finally ready to update my post with my solution for anyone who stumbles upon this old thread or is searching for a Z-stutter cure. (I know that over the years, others have reported it in these forums.) Though I've built Marlin countless times in t
  12. I simply thread my filament out one of the bucket holes to the feeder. I only leave the length of filament out of the bucket when printing and it doesn't absorb moisture fast enough to make a describable when printing, even in the most humid weather I've ever experienced in the Pacific NW of the USA. When not printing with my filament, I rotate the filament spool(s) in the bucket at least daily and simply leave the light on (from 40 W to 100 W, depending on the ambient humidity of the weather (true watts--not the "equivalent" light output ratings on the low power bulbs most often required to
  13. I'd prefer to continue to use all the endstop switches, because they seem redundant until software doesn't behave as you might expect and then your stepper motors and drive mechanism crashes against the frame!🤮 It's the same with CNC machine tools. Endstop switches are safety switches. I've already had a crash happen after configuring some Marlin features used with touch sensors. It is tricky and Marlin now has many features that are easy to mis-program and not catch the error until there's a crash. A full set of operating endstop switches protects the hardware.
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