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  1. I think the E3D nozzles are available individually too. They are a plug and play installation on the UMO/UMO+, or nearly so. Just make sure that when you tighten the nozzle it bottoms against the brass tube rather than the aluminium heater block such that the nozzle seals against the brass tube inside the heater block. You'll have a very small gap between the nozzle hex and the block that way--perhaps not even visible to the eye. You will probably need to adjust the position of the brass tube to get the nozzle to bottom against the brass tube correctly (without an excessive gap at the heater b
  2. It's not difficult to adapt the UMO / UMO+ to other nozzles. I've used Makergear nozzles of various orifice sizes along with Makergear brass "barrels" in the past (instead of my UMO brass "tube"). Now I have the cute little "tin" can nozzle kit of smaller (external dimensions) in a wide range of orifice sizes from E3D and they work well with the original UMO brass tube that's shown here: https://github.com/Ultimaker/UltimakerOriginal/blob/master/1053_Hot_End_Isolator_Tube/B1053-A2P-A.PDF Okay, the actual "tube" doesn't quite look like the .pdf but you should recognize it as th
  3. You're welcome! Thanks for the info about your UM setup too. I hear ya'! I have all sorts of upgrade parts ready to install on my UMO, which is still a really sweet machine, but find little time to work on the projects I've planned. The Marlin website has really become a great resource. The config files are also well-documented. Let us know if you need help when you get around to building a new Marlin. BTW, the Arduino toolkit version makes a big difference. I have several versions installing on my MX-Linux system. Sometimes you just have to try a different Arduino dev kit
  4. After studying Marlin support for the BLTouch, I'll probably start with a polled interface and use the UMO upper switch (homing zero stop) for both an endstop and the BLTouch. Maybe I'll see if interrupts can be used later. I still have to find time to print a bunch of parts before I do this mod too. I just can't seem to find the spare time. 😞
  5. Yes, Curven. I'm on Marlin 1.1.9 now and it's my favorite version ever! I'm very pleased with the single click per Ulticontroller menu item settings that I've found along with excellent knob spin "acceleration" and fast Z-homing speeds. I also like many of the newer Marlin features. Finally, it's the first Marlin where I've never had occasional problems with z-stage stuttering, which previously required me to power down the machine after every print. Stuttering seems to be a rare problem but others have also experienced the same stuttering behavior that's plagued my machine since new.
  6. Z-stutter update and solution. See: https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/10226-why-does-my-print-have-tiny-zebra-stripes/page/13/?tab=comments#comment-243962
  7. UPDATE: I was premature to announce success in my ongoing war against Z-stuttering, because this problem my UMO has exhibited since new was not fully exorcised from my printer after my last post here and it often continued to rear (or spin ;)) its ugly head. However, after several months without experiencing the problem, I am finally ready to update my post with my solution for anyone who stumbles upon this old thread or is searching for a Z-stutter cure. (I know that over the years, others have reported it in these forums.) Though I've built Marlin countless times in t
  8. I simply thread my filament out one of the bucket holes to the feeder. I only leave the length of filament out of the bucket when printing and it doesn't absorb moisture fast enough to make a describable when printing, even in the most humid weather I've ever experienced in the Pacific NW of the USA. When not printing with my filament, I rotate the filament spool(s) in the bucket at least daily and simply leave the light on (from 40 W to 100 W, depending on the ambient humidity of the weather (true watts--not the "equivalent" light output ratings on the low power bulbs most often required to
  9. I'd prefer to continue to use all the endstop switches, because they seem redundant until software doesn't behave as you might expect and then your stepper motors and drive mechanism crashes against the frame!🤮 It's the same with CNC machine tools. Endstop switches are safety switches. I've already had a crash happen after configuring some Marlin features used with touch sensors. It is tricky and Marlin now has many features that are easy to mis-program and not catch the error until there's a crash. A full set of operating endstop switches protects the hardware.
  10. You can dry your nylon with a 5 gal. bucket (or other container) and light bulb: http://taulman3d.com/drying-materials.html
  11. I've been printing nylon since the trimmer line days (when it was the only nylon media available). Accordingly, I've tried many substrates for printing nylon. In the past, I used contact cement to bond Garolite to a precision Mic6 aluminium plate, but now I just use Gecko EZ-Stick hot on window glass. It works just as well and is easier to replace: https://www.geckotek.co/collections/ez-stik-hot On the other hand, the only perfect bed adhesion that I've found for large and dense nylon prints is Gorilla Glue one-part urethane (the original dark honey-colored stuff) adhesive. It only lasts
  12. I'm running Marlin 1.1.8 on my UMO with its original 1.5.7 electronics and an Ulticontroller. I've been building a new version of Marlin 1.1.8 for my Bltouch sensor, which I'm about to hook-up and start testing. The Marlin source code says: // Enable this feature if all enabled endstop pins are interrupt-capable. // This will remove the need to poll the interrupt pins, saving many CPU cycles. //#define ENDSTOP_INTERRUPTS_FEATURE and the Antclabs Bltouch instructions say this feature is optional. Does the 1.5.7 board have at least three interrupt-capable inputs? I only need three in
  13. You might be able to manually adjust the power budget too. Years ago I ran a water cooled Garcad hotend (the first water cooled hotend I ever saw) on my UMO. It had a 6 ohm heater that would reset my UMO, due to overload. Here's what I wrote to the developer at the time. This method worked and I assume that PID_MAX is still a Marlin "knob" that you can tweak, if you're willing to build your own Marlin code.
  14. I'm back (as "calinb") 🙂 🙂 🙂 SandervG sent me a PM with instructions. I hope he doesn't mind my pasting the solution, below. However, I also had to delete all my Firefox cookies and passwords associated with "ultimaker" in order to get a logon with my old username. My new username (calinb_new) can now be deleted, because I hope I never have reason to use it again. (I only created it as a means to recovery my old logon.) It may have been a good thing that my calinb_new logon was associated with a yahoo.com email address and my older username ("calinb") was associated wi
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