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Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts


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  1. These spam posts are getting annoying. The forum needs to have a better turing test for registration.
  2. Sorry for late updates. I made this piece couple weeks ago but didn't upload the pictures until today. Still some tinkering needs to be done for accuracy. +1 for someone who knows what it is
  3. I'm actually printing an object right now and it's turning out well. All i did was wipe the blue tape with MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone), lower the print speed to 70% and raise the first layer temp to 215. Once the first layer was printed, I lowered the temp to 206 to keep it from plugging and raise the print speed back to 100%. I will have to figure out a way to machine out a heatsink to allow for active cooling below the PEEK. I'm not interested in printing Nylon as of yet. I just want to print PLA and ABS for now, which means my next step is to get a heated bed going. Trying to decide o
  4. Yes I will have to upgrade to the Bertho extruder one day. I haven't heard of the Alaris V3 hotend. I was thinking that cooling the hotend itself just below the PEEK would keep the PLA from plugging. It's great to have the high resolution prints, but it just takes too damn long to print. However, there are times when you need to print small high res objects, so this would be ideal. Once i setup everything properly, I will post my settings. I will try the glue to see if it helps with adhesion. I do have an aluminum plate that fits perfectly on the bed, but I dont have kapton tape. Do y
  5. Sorry if i wasn't being very descriptive. The issue comes down to the heat and the problem with extrusion. When i print with 220degC, I have no problems with the first layer sticking, however my print head gets plugs. It's plugs up really fast, less than 30 minutes! Due to the small nozzle opening, the plastic remains inside the print head longer than compared to the .4mm nozzle. Which means the heat starts to climb upwards on the print head. I had to start printing with 190-200. Problem with printing at that low of a temperature is that the plastic doesn't want to stick to the plat
  6. Hey guys, So i accidentally bought .25mm nozzles from makergear. I decided to see if it will work with the UM. I got the settings to work for simple objects with very little intricate turns, but with any 90deg angles, the first layer doesn't want to stick. The machine has to be very well calibrated or it wont work as the margin of error is very slim compared to the .4mm nozzle. Also print times are very long, as now you have to print even more passes per layer. Top belt tensioner is the .25mm, bottom is the .4mm. You can see the thickness of each pass on the .4mm, but it's very thin
  7. Update: Sander actually helped me out and was able to work with me in getting the parts ordered again. UM staff are awesome and I really appreciate it!
  8. Awesome thanks! Yes I did email them today. I'm waiting on their reply. I do want the updated V2 hotend regardless, just want a quick fix
  9. Hey! I've been lurking on this forum for a bit. I bought my UM several months ago and was printing all sorts of cool parts. Recently I got a plug in the hot end and bought the V2. However, it's been 3 weeks since the parts were shipped and I was dumb enough to not pay for tracking, so i'm guessing it's a loss. During those 3 weeks, I broke the nozzle and the brass threaded pipe, and I really want my machine up and running. Does anyone know where I can source the essential parts from a USA vendor? I'll probably end up paying for another V2, but it will take weeks for it to ship to me. I
  10. I agree with Doug. It would be nice to have a documentation regarding the settings. However it does seem like some of the variables is from 0-255 or 8 bits of information? At least I think the fan operates this way.
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